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By Gary Girdvainis 

Throughout history watches and clocks have been designed to show the passage of time in a variety of ways beyond the current time. Think of the various functions for elapsed time, moon phase, sunrise, sunset, dual time, world time, countdown timers and tides. These movements and mechanisms have evolved to frenetically slice time into thinner and thinner segments striving for split-second accuracy.

With his own perspective, Israel-based Itay Noy uses modern mechanical technology to slow us down. With a longer view of the time continuum, Noy’s latest watch, Seven-Day Cycle, encourages us to visualize where each day resides in the longer scope of the week and in your own daily progression through time. Two companion models in the collection, Rest Day and Shabbat, fill out the full Seven-Day Cycle series with equally intriguing approaches to traditional timekeeping.    

Three watches in the Itay Noy Seven Day Cycle series. At top is Shabbat, with Seven-Day Cycle (left) and Rest Day (right).

I first met Itay Noy many years ago at the Basel Fair. His small and unassuming display at the back of Hall 5 was nothing impressive – merely a vitrine with his early models that looked nothing like watches I had seen before. 

I stopped and met with Itay and was as impressed by his enthusiasm and belief in his own vision as I was of his unusual take on timekeeping. While I’m typically skeptical of success for most new brands, his firm belief in himself and his designs led me to consider that Itay Noy had a better-than-average chance of surviving in the challenging and crowded field of watch brands.

More than twenty years later Itay Noy has not only survived but continues to thrive by evoking his own timekeeping designs hand-built in Israel in very small volumes – with dials and functions inspired by both secular and religious dogma.

The Seven-Day Cycle watch (below) reveals the weekdays on the dial with the seventh day as Sunday.

 

The Rest Day model.

“Instead of a single window revealing the traditional names of weekdays, I skeletonized all weekdays on the dial as numeric values (first day, second day and so on) and the seventh day as a rest day,” Itay Noy says of Rest Day.

“Each day will be highlighted in turn. Each watch can be personalized to the owner’s faith or preferences simply by choosing any day of the week as his (or her) rest day.”

The Shabbat watch from the Seven-Day Cycle series.

On the Shabbat watch, find the Hebrew weekdays on the dial and the seventh day is Shabbat. Each day will be highlighted in turn. In addition, each day a new Hebrew letter will appear in the small window at 6 o’clock and together complete the sentence: “God finished the work he has done, and he rested on the seventh day from all his work that he had; (Genesis 2:2).

Price: $4,900. 

 

SPECIFICATIONS: Ita Noy Seven-Day Cycle 

(A limited edition of 77, each numbered)

Movement: Automatic, INS200, Ø29mm, Height 5.05mm, 26 Jewels 28,800vph, power reserve 38 hours.            

Functions: hours, minutes, sweep seconds, quick-set date, and 7-day windows.

Case: 40mm by 8.4mm stainless steel 316L, sapphire crystal, screw-down case back, water-resistant to 50 meters. 

StrapHandmade leather.

Price:  $4,900.

By Elizabeth Doerr 

As part of the partnership with luxury carmaker Aston Martin since 2021, Girard-Perregaux reveals a second co-creation from its quintessential Bridges collection. This line pays tribute to company cofounder Constant Girard, who was one of the very few watchmakers of the nineteenth century able to make a tourbillon; his special trio of visible bridges continues to be the focal point of the wristwatches in this collection to this day. 

 

The new Girard-Perregaux Neo Bridges Aston Martin Edition.

In 2014, Girard-Perregaux presented a radically modern evolution of the Three Bridges called the Neo Tourbillon with Three Bridges featuring changes that endowed the new sub-line with a much more avant-garde spirit thanks to the shape and material of the bridges, the crystal, and the redesigned caliber. 

The bridges, now made of titanium instead of gold, were redesigned to provide extra three-dimensionality and visually lightened the appearance of what is essentially a rather large watch (45mm x 12.18 mm). They also add sleek modernity. 

For this latest iteration – the fifth co-branded timepiece overall – the team comprising designers from both companies was inspired by the world’s first Super Tourer, the Aston Martin DB12. 

Rather unusually, though, the watch features an inverted movement: the symmetrically designed Caliber GP0840000-2164 therefore visibly relocates components usually found at the rear of the watch to the front, including the micro rotor for automatic winding at 1:30 and the mainspring barrel across from it at 11:30, whose looks are motivated by the brakes found behind the Aston Martin DB12’s spoked wheels. 

Two PVD-coated “neo” bridges in Aston Martin Green not only hold the balance wheel and gear train in place, but, along with the minute markers and strap seams, provide color splashes against the resolutely modern blacks and greys of this watch. The effect is striking.

Girard-Perregaux darkens the new watch’s 45mm titanium case with DLC and builds a skeletonized movement decorated with the green hue associated with Aston Martin. The hands and markers both glow with green SuperLuminova to match the metallic Aston Martin Green bridges that dominate the dial.

Look for additional green tints in the black rubber strap (with a fabric effect), which is enlivened with green stitches and then fitted with a titanium DLC triple folding buckle.

Girard-Perregaux will offer the Neo Bridges Aston Martin Edition as a limited edition of 250 pieces.

Price: $37,700. 

Franck Muller’s Las Vegas Racing Watch celebrates the inaugural Formula One race hosted by the Sin City as it hits the apex of watchmaking design and accelerates onto the Las Vegas Strip.

The Franck Muller Las Vegas Racing Watch.

The compressed carbon chassis is cast in this sport-driven Vanguard design, this time with new coach works inspired by the fastest track cars in the world coming to Las Vegas for the first time.

Under the hood is the in-house designed and manufactured Franck Muller custom engine, enhanced with a roulette wheel function as it performs late-breaking maneuvers into the exclusive point of sale at the Las Vegas Neiman Marcus.

Issued in a very limited edition, the Franck Muller Las Vegas Racing is the perfect racing partner for those who live life in the fast lane. Price: $45,000.

Oris introduces a version of its ProPilot X Calibre 400 with an unusual, colorful laser-cut dial produced using a technique new to watchmaking.

The new Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser.

The titanium dial, created with the assistance of ETH Zürich university, shimmers with color changes, appearing to change from blue to green to violet to echo the colors seen on iridescent beetles.

 

Based on the principles of biomimicry, the phenomenon is a natural one called ‘optical interference.’ This means that red light waves are destroyed, while blue and green waves are reflected.

There is no color pigment on the dial.  

While the eye sees colors, there is not one drop of color pigment on watch’s dial. The surface instead splits the light into its components to create the visible rainbow effect.

The entire dial is laser cut. Oris and engineering students at ETH Zurich created the logo, indexes, minutes track and dial text using another laser process that creates a three-dimensional effect.

 

In addition to the spectacular dial, the watch retains the familiar components and specifications found on the ProPilot X Calibre 400, which Oris debuted in 2022. These include a 39mm titanium case, titanium bezel and crown and a three-link titanium bracelet.

 

Oris fits its superb Calibre 400 inside the watch, offering chronometric accuracy, high levels of anti-magnetism and a ten-year warranty with ten-year recommended service intervals.

Price: $5,200. 

MB&F builds a 1960s house for your wrist with its latest debut, the Horological Machine Nº11 Architect.

The new MB&F Horological Machine Nº11 Architect.

With four titanium ‘rooms’ radiating from a sapphire-domed central flying tourbillon, the new watch recalls the designs of mid-twentieth century biomorphic-style houses, with four symmetrical parabolic ‘rooms’ emanating from a central atrium.

Each room houses a display, with one showing the time, the next showing the watch’s power reserve, a third indicating temperature and the fourth housing the winding crown. The wearer can choose which display is in direct eyesight when wearing the watch by rotating the entire housing, which will click into place as desired.

The rotation is more than a choice of display: each 45° clockwise turn delivers 72 minutes of power directly to the barrel. After ten complete rotations, the HM11 will reach its maximum 96-hour power reserve.

Also unusual, the massive 10mm crown (used to set the time), protected with eight gaskets, is made of clear sapphire and allows another view of the HM11’s flying tourbillon. In total, nineteen gaskets protect the movement.

At the center of the HM No. 11 Architect is the watch’s flying tourbillon, on display under a dual clear sapphire dome. MB&F has designed an unusual quatrefoil-shaped upper bridge, meant to recall the shape of clerestory windows.

Among the four displays, the thermometer stands out as the most unusual for a high-end watch. This thermometer uses a bimetallic strip to indicate temperature, a method akin to  an analog display amid the many instant electronic thermometers seen on electronic devices and even digital watches. This display is available in Celsius or Fahrenheit variations.

Each of the peripheral ‘rooms’ on the HM11 feature exterior walls of polished grade-5 titanium. Within the sapphire domes, the new movement beats at a stately 2.5Hz (18,000 vph) amid a choice of metallic blue or rose gold PVD plates. 

MB&F will make twenty-five Horological Machine Nº11 Architect watches in each color, each priced at $230,000.

Specifications: MB&F HM No.11 Architect 

Movement:

Three-dimensional horological engine featuring bevel gears, composed of a flying tourbillon, hours and minutes, a power reserve indicator and temperature measurement, developed in-house by MB&F.

Mechanical movement, manual winding (by turning the entire case clockwise).

Power reserve: 96 hours

Balance frequency: 18,000 bph/2.5Hz

Plates: Blue and 5N PVD treatment

Number of movement components: 364 components

Number of jewels: 29 jewels

Functions/indications:

Hour and minutes

Power reserve

Temperature (-20 to 60° Celsius, or 0 to 140° Fahrenheit)

Case:

42mm diameter x 23mm grade 5 titanium, display markers: conical rods in stainless steel (0.50mm to 0.60mm), darker beads in polished titanium and lighter beads in polished aluminum (1.30mm to 2.40mm). Water resistance: 20 meters.

Sapphire crystals:

Sapphire crystals on top, back, and on each chamber-display treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces, sapphire crown

Strap & Buckle:

Rubber strap – white for the blue model and khaki green for the red gold model

Titanium tang buckle.