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Alpina presents the Seastrong Diver 300 Heritage in a new dark green dial paired with a color coordinated green rubber strap. Measuring 42mm in diameter and water-resistant to 300 meters, the watch’s two-piece stainless steel case mounts two screw-down crowns; one for time setting and winding, the other for rotating the inner rotating rehaute specifically for timing a dive – or any other event up to a one-hour limit.

The new Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 Heritage.

This retro-inspired design revisits the brand’s Super Compressor 10 Seastrong dive watch, first introduced in 1969. While dive watches have long tended to have neon bright yellows and safety orange dials, Alpina dove head-first into the current trend for green colors with this quite dark seaweed-green dial and British racing green strap. Bold hands are luminous, as are the indices on the inner bezel.

As with external bezels, diver down times are shown with by Seastrong’s internal black rehaut, which can be adjusted using the upper crown positioned at the two o’clock mark. Unlike most internal bezels, the Seatrong’s can be rotated in either direction before being locked in place by screwing the extra crown down.

The stainless steel case is polished and brushed on the sides with a solid steel case back engraved with Alpina’s namesake Alps as well as a trident as a nod to the nautical nature of the watch. Inside is the Sellita-based AL 520 automatic winding movement beating at 28,800 with 38 hours of power reserve. Price: $1,695.

With the new Mese 2.22, boasting an unusual, minimalist analog date display, independent Swiss watchmaker Ochs und Junior launches its first watch with a PVD dial. 

On the watch’s unusual blue PVD dial (and module) you’ll see white indexes, white hands and a white date indicator dot, which cleverly replaces the traditional date display window style.

The new Ochs und Junior Ochs Line Mese 2.22.

Each dot is actually a hole exposing a white SuperLuminova disc below. The viewer determines the date simply by noting which dot around the dial perimeter is white. Using the ten-minute markers as easy reference points, the full 30-day month is indicated via the 31 dots.

Designer Ludwig Oechslin created the indicator by arranging the holes in a gentle spiral, with the 31st hole overlapping the first. A curved dash on the disk below the dial ensures that only one of the two holes will indicate the date at the start of the month (either the 1st or the 31st), but not both at the same time.

The dial and module for the Ochs und Junior Ochs Line Mese 2.22.

The time is read in the traditional manner. The exact minute and seconds  can be read by the ring of holes spaced at two-minute intervals. These perforations mark even-numbered minutes while the adjoining spaces denote odd-numbered minutes. (Check out this video of Oechslin explaining the date spiral for his perpetual calendar, which is also relevant for this Mese model.)

La Chaux-de-Fonds-based Ochs und Junior was founded in 2006 by renowned scholar and watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin, alongside Kurt König, managing director of Swiss watch retailer Embassy, and Beat Weinmann.

The Ochs und Junior Mese 1.22 debuted this past April.

This newest Ochs und Junior Ochs Line Mese 2.22, a 39mm titanium watch, follows the earlier Mese 1.22 debut in April. It highlights a new ‘Yves-Klein blue’ in PVD made by Positive Coating, La Chaux-de-Fonds. Ochs und Junior pairs the bright new color with blue-black Ecopell Enzian Nappa leather strap, handmade by Berne-based designer Sabina Brägger. 

Inside, Oechslin’s module is paired with an automatic ETA 2824-2, and both are fit within the two-part titanium case designed by Ludwig Oechslin with visible machining marks. Price: CHF 3,500. 

Bucherer adds watches from Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie and L’Epée to its Bucherer Blue series of customized, limited edition models.

All are finished in the Bucherer Blue color, meant to reflect its place in the watch retailer’s collection of custom-made, similarly hued watches made in partnership with a wide range of Swiss watchmakers. Each watch will be available as a limited edition of eighteen pieces.

The new Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue.

Girard-Perregaux

The new Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue builds on this watchmakers’s Neo series, a contemporary version of its famed Tourbillon with Three Bridges.

The watch is cased in titanium and features a trio of blued bridges also made from titanium. The three bridges not only support the geartrain, barrel and tourbillon, but also act as the mainplate. This design creates the impression that the bridges are floating.

Girard-Perregaux fits the 44mm case between two sapphire crystal glass boxes, which enhances the transparency – and the modernity – of the piece. Price: $167,000.

The H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue.

H. Moser & Cie. 

Independent watchmaker H. Moser sets its Deco-styled Streamliner Tourbillon with sixty baguette-cut blue sapphires (2.90 carats), apparently the first gemstone setting for this award-winning series.

Fit with the superb HMC 804 caliber, which features a flying tourbillon with double hairspring and a three-day power reserve, the watch also features a Moser fumé dial, set within the Streamliner’s 40mm steel case with integrated steel bracelet with articulated links.

The watch is the first Streamliner limited edition H. Moser has created for a partner. Price: $119,000.

The new L’Epée Time Fast Bucherer Blue.

L’Epée 1839 

The new L’Epée Time Fast Bucherer Blue combines the independent Swiss clockmaker’s existing Time Fast series with Bucherer’s blue hue. L’Epée’s design is meant to evoke memories of a 1950s-era single-seater race car.

Under the hood L’Epee builds a tiered movement with an eight-day power reserve shaped to the bodywork.

The user winds the 15-inch-long clock the same way a mechanical motor is wound in a pull-back toy car. The hours and minutes are displayed on the side through an aperture resembling a typical competition number, via two engraved stainless steel disks. Price: $34,000. 

Independent Swiss watchmaker HYT lights up its tenth anniversary with an extra-brilliant version of its Moon Runner, a 48mm moonphase watch with the watchmaker’s trademark fluidic hour display.

The HYT Moon Runner White Neon

The new watch, called Moon Runner White Neon, is a limited edition of ten. HYT has generously outfitted the already unusual watch (the original titanium-cased version debuted earlier this year) with the latest generation of SuperLuminova as developed by the Swiss laboratory RC Tritec.

The material is actually part of the dial. The representation of the Moon, the numerals, the minute hand and the inscriptions on the indicator discs are pure SuperLuminova Tec Light, and not simply coated with the material.

HYT then adds effects to the light show. Look for an intense bluish luminosity with longer emissions over time on this dial, notably with the honeycomb grid and along the part of the middle of the hydrocarbon case.

The Moon Runner White Neon retains HYT’s fluid approach to displaying time, showing the hour via the retrograde fluid in a capillary tube, alongside the central minute hand and unusual titanium date and month discs. The moon itself is a massive 3D orb in the center of the dial.

Famed watchmaker Eric Coudray designed the movement with the assistance of Paul Clementi, a Prix Gaïa winner. They have endowed the caliber with elegant satin finish or laser-treated or bead-blasted parts.

Price: CHF 130,000

Bell & Ross says that its 42mm BR 03-92 Diver White, which debuted earlier this year, is inspired by frozen watery worlds. And with a dial adorned with white, a shade rarely seen at Bell & Ross, we see why.

The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver White, which debuted earlier this year.

Bell & Ross has released numerous dive watches since the first of this square-cased series debuted in 2017. Prior to the series, Bell & Ross offered several barrel-shaped BR 02 dive models, and years earlier, in 1997, Bell & Ross debuted its round-cased Hydromax, a deep-diver water resistant to 11,100-meters.

The case on this latest edition BR 03-92 diver is water resistant to 300 meters and its unidirectional rotating bezel, notched to calculate decompression stops, is graduated over sixty minutes with a luminescent dot at 12 o’clock. The anti-reflective sapphire crystal on this diving watch is very thick, and the back is reinforced.

A crown protector prevents accidental manipulations of the crown while the watch’s hands and indices are coated with a SuperLuminova, emitting a bright green color in the dark. Finally, Bell & Ross includes a black rubber strap suitable for underwater use.

All these specs underscore the fact that the BR 03-92 Diver White meets the specifications of the Swiss diving watch as it meets complying the ISO 6425 dive watch standard.

Price: $3,990

Specifications: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver White

Movement: BR-CAL.302, a Sellita-based automatic.

Case: 42mm by 12.05mm satin-finished and polished steel. Unidirectional rotating steel bezel with 60-minute scale and black anodized aluminum insert. Screw-down crown, sapphire crystal. Crown guard. Water resistant to 300 meters.

Dial: Silver opaline with applique indices, Super-LumiNova inserts, skeletonized applique Super-LumiNova-filled hour, minute and seconds hands.

Strap: Woven black rubber and a second strap of ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric. Pin buckle with satin-finished and polished steel.

Price: $3,990.