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Watches and Wonders 2023: Oris ProPilot Altimeter

Oris enhances the performance of its groundbreaking automatic mechanical altimeter and places it into a new carbon-fiber composite case.

Announced during Watches and Wonders 2023, the new Oris Pro Pilot Altimeter is now thinner and more lightweight than it was in 2014 when Oris launched it as the “world’s first and only automatic mechanical watch with a mechanical altimeter.”

After working on the new model for the past three years, Oris has made the new model capable of indicating altitude up to 19,700 feet or 6,000 meters (the watch is available with indications in either feet or meters). On the earlier editions the scales indicated up to 15,000 feet or 4,500 meters.

Teaming with 9T Labs, a spin-off from the ETH Zurich university (Swiss Federal Institute of Technology), Oris built the new 47mm carbon fiber case as a single-piece of 3D-printed carbon 1mm thinner than the earlier models.

Oris attaches a PVD-coated titanium bezel and caseback and powers the watch with its own Caliber 793, a slimline automatic with a newly improved 56-hour power reserve.

The watch is available in two versions, one with an altitude scale in feet and another with an altitude scale in meters. Both versions are priced at $6,500.

Specifications: Oris ProPilot Altimeter

Movement: Automatic Oris 793, with hours, minutes and central sweep seconds hands, date with quick setting, stop second device, date window at 3 o’clock. Power reserve of 56 hours.

Case: 47mm single-piece carbon fibre case, grey PVD-plated titanium bezel and caseback. Water resistance to 100 meters.

Dial: Black with altitude scale on dial ring in either feet or meters.

Luminous material: Indices, numbers and hands printed with Super-LumiNova. Domed sapphire on both sides, anti-reflective coating on both sides. Case back in grey PVD-plated titanium, screwed, feet-to-metre conversion chart engravings.

Operating devices: Grey PVD-plated titanium screw-in security crown at 2 o’clock, grey PVD-plated titanium screw-in altimeter crown at 4 o’clock.

Strap: Green textile with brown leather lining, grey PVD-plated titanium folding clasp with fine adjustment system.

Price: $6,500.

Bulgari Launches First Octo Roma Chronograph

Bulgari focuses on its eight-sided Octo Roma collection for early 2023 as it launches the collection’s first chronograph. In addition, look for three new Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic dial options and four Octo Roma Tourbillon watches, each with its own technical twist.

Octo Roma Chronograph

As an early 2023 focus debut, the new Octo Roma Chronograph introduces a new Bulgari movement, Caliber BVL 399, visible through the watch’s clear sapphire back.

Two models are included in the debut, one with a black dial and one in blue. Both feature an eye-catching Clous de Paris, or hobnail, pattern that appears as small pyramids across the dial, here broken only by the three sunburst-pattern chronograph subdials.

Bulgari has been especially careful designing the pushers, which are nicely integrated into the 42mm by 12.4mm steel case. The pushers are only slightly visible, seemingly flowing from the angled lugs directly to the crown protector.

The new Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph also features a screw-in steel crown with a ceramic insert, is water-resistant to 100 meters and offersSuperLumiNova-filled metallic hands, indexes and numerals.

Bulgari attaches the watch to the wrist with a polished and satin-brushed stainless-steel bracelet with a folding clasp and includes an easily interchangeable rubber strap with each watch.

Price: 9,900 euros.

Octo Roma Automatic

Sporting the same fetching Clous de Paris dial treatment as the new chronograph, the three new automatic models each offer a three-dimensional dial option to the Roma Automatic collection. Differing ambient light levels will subtly alter the character of the dial, though the large 12 and 6 and the long hour markers allow time to be read quickly at any angle. The hands, hour markers and Arabic numerals are enhanced with SuperLumiNova.

Bulgari offers three colors with the new dial pattern: blue, anthracite and white.

This 41mm by 9.1mm steel watch with three hands and date is powered by the existing in-house Caliber BVL 191 movement decorated with Côtes de Genève motif, visible through the clear sapphire back.

Bulgari equips both the Octo Roma Automatic and the Octo Roma Chronograph with a tool-free interchangeable wristband system. Each watch is also water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

Price: 7,900 euros.

Four Octo Roma Tourbillon Watches

Two of the Tourbillon models, the Octo Roma Precious Naturalia (165,000 euros) and Precious Tourbillon Lumière (190,000 euros) both feature minerals within their cases or dials.

The Bulgari Octo Roma Precious Naturalia features a slice of tiger’s eye on the caliber and the indexes.

The former includes polished tiger eye on its caliber, mainplate and indexes while then latter glows with diamonds set across a 38mm rose gold case.

The Octo Roma Precious Tourbillon Lumière features a new 38mm case size.

Two Bulgari Octo Roma tourbillon debuts are especially contemporary. One, the 44mm Octo Roma Papillon Tourbillon (130,000 euros) is a black DLC titanium-cased, jumping hour model named in reference to the Daniel Roth precursors of yore. Sporting a very rare central tourbillon, the watch shows the hour through a fixed window at noon, while the minutes are displayed on a semicircle graduated from 0 to 60 and alternately traversed by two diamond-shaped hands.

A sketch of the Bulgari Octo Roma Papillon Tourbillon. Images coming soon.

The second contemporary model is an Octo Roma Striking Tourbillon Sapphire (85,000 euros) that revives an earlier flying tourbillon chiming model, but with a newly refined black DLC titanium and sapphire case. We’ll have more information and images of these two new models in future posts.

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Watches and Wonders 2023: The Chopard Alpine Eagle with Small Seconds

Among its 2023 Watches and Wonders Debuts, Chopard adds an ultra-thin small-seconds model to its high-flying Alpine Eagle collection.

The new watch, the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS, comes a year after Chopard debuted a small-seconds display within the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon. The new watch expands an already impressive list of Alpine Eagle variations, including models with a flyback chronograph movement, a high-frequency caliber and the recent flying tourbillon.

This series places Chopard’s superior L.U.C 96.40-L movement in a 41mm by 8mm steel case, topping it with what Chopard calls its “Monte Rosa Pink” dial.

Chopard explains that the new dial color is inspired by natural Alpine colors and is named to evoke the pinkish shimmer after which the second highest mountain range in the Alps is named.

The Chopard L.U.C caliber inside the new watch, like so many of Chopard’s excellent in-house movements, offers a much-welcomed long power reserve of sixty-five hours thanks to its two stacked barrels based on Chopard Twin technology.

Chopard also equips the movement with a stop-seconds function that is backed up with a chronometer certification by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. (Note the “Chronometer” inscription on the dial below the logo.) In addition to its chronometer certification, the watch is finished to Geneva Seal haute horlogerie standards.

Chopard makes all its steel Alpine Eagle models with its own Lucent Steel A223, a particularly shiny and element-resistant alloy. Other characteristics of the collection include: a round case with stylized flanks, a crown engraved with a compass rose, a bezel with eight functional screws set at a tangent, a stamped colorful ‘eagle’s iris’ dial, luminescent indications and a metal bracelet. Price: $22,500.

Also New in 2023

During Watches and Wonders 2023 Chopard also debuted a new 25mm Happy Sport collection the debuts in four variations featuring a choice of materials, straps – including a new double tour option – and diamond settings. Prices start at $4,450.

One of four new 25mm options in the new Chopard Happy Sport collection.

In addition, look for Imperiale, a rose-gold-cased 25-piece limited edition in ethical 18-karat rose gold models with a lotus flower motif.

The flowers bloom against the sky backdrop that appears to change thanks to a rotating day-night mechanism. Price: $90,700.

Featured Events March 30, 2023

Watches and Wonders 2023: Hublot Expands Square Bang Unico

A year after squaring its Big Bang Unico, Hublot launches three new versions of the Square Bang Unico in sapphire and ceramic cases, again showcasing the watchmaker’s expertise in working with high-tech materials.

The trio, which includes one Square Bang Unico Sapphire model and two Square Bang Unico Ceramic watches (above), join what Hublot calls its Shaped Collection of square and barrel-shaped watches

For these watches, which Hublot debuts during Watches and Wonders 2023, the watchmaker continues to utilize its emblematic sandwich-like case construction and now well-known Big Bang characteristics such as the six functional H- shaped screws, micro-blasted and polished finishes, exposed movements and long-power reserve calibers.

Hublot’s new Square Bang Unico Sapphire.

Hublot will offer one debut, the Square Bang Unico Sapphire, in a limited run of 250. Its 41mm by 12mm square sapphire case remains fully water resistant to fifty meters, despite the challenges inherent in working with sapphire cases.

Inside the sapphire case (and inside both ceramic debuts) Hublot fits its time-tested HUB1280 Unico automatic chronograph with flyback. For this model, the sapphire case enhances the view of the movement, allowing unobstructed view of its column-wheel and chronograph gearing. The movement offers a superior seventy-two-hour power reserve.

Hublot places the HUB1280 into its two new Square Bang Unico Ceramic models, which are not limited editions. Offered in 41mm by 12mm white ceramic or black ceramic cases, each watch is fitted with a rubber strap with a titanium deployant buckle clasp.

Hublot notes that while a matching black or white rubber strap comes with these models, its One Click interchangeable system makes it possible to customize either watch by swapping straps.

Prices: $27,000 (black ceramic), $26,200 (white ceramic) and $95,000 (clear sapphire).

Square Bang Unico Diamonds

Hublot at Watches and Wonders 2023 also extended its existing Square Bang Unico collection with four Square Bang Unico Diamonds models.

Each artfully sets diamonds into the bezel and/or adjacent upper and lower case (on Pave models) of the existing square series cased in titanium and Hublot’s own King Gold alloy.

Also new in 2023

In addition to the enhancing its Square Bang Unico collection, Hublot at Watches & Wonders 2023 updated its Big Bang Time Only models with Black Magic and diamond-set steel models.

Hublot’s new Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinsky.

Also look for an expanded Orlinsky collection, which now includes a Classic Fusion Chronograph edition ($14,600 and $18,200 on a titanium bracelet), a Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Texalium Carbon ($127,000), and host of new colors within the hot Classic Fusion Akashi Murakami collection (along with matching NFTs).

One of thirteen Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Black Ceramic Rainbow models. Each is a unique piece.

For Hublot’s the full-on complicated MP series, look for an all-new Big Bang MP-13 Tourbillon Retrograde BiAxial Titanium ($158,000).

The new Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Texalium-Carbon.

The 44mm Big Bang MP-13 is encased entirely in brushed titanium and for the first time brings together two complications—the two-axis tourbillion and the retrograde display.

We’ll feature many of these other 2023 Hublot debuts in future posts as well as within our print editions.

Watches and Wonders 2023: TAG Heuer Celebrates Carrera

At Watches and Wonders 2023 TAG Heuer adds two new Carrera watches that feature a new domed ‘Glassbox’ crystal.

One of two new 39mm Carrera Chronographs fit with a vintage-inspired Glassbox crystal.

One debut, a 39mm Carrera Chronograph, will arrive in two dial options and with an updated movement. The second is a Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon, a sister watch to a collection of previously introduced extra sporty Carrera tourbillon watches.

The new 42mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon is set under a Glassbox crystal.

In addition to these debuts, TAG Heuer adds color to two existing 42mm steel Carrera Chronographs. With a black or a blue dial, these new chronographs inject vivid orange detailing meant to recall the look of classic race car speedometers.

TAG Heuer also expands its Aquaracer nautical watch collection with an all-gold Aquaracer Professional 200 sporting a new movement, manufacture Caliber TH31-00, which delivers an 80-hour power reserve.

A second new Aquaracer Professional 200 series adds bi-color gold and steel models to the collection, offering four models in two case sizes: two at 40mm and another pair at 30mm. We’ll have more about TAG Heuer’s new expansion of the Aquaracer collection in an upcoming post.

Glassbox Carreras

TAG Heuer continues to celebrate Carrera’s sixtieth anniversary with all these debuts.

The new Glassbox chronographs are inspired in part by the reference 3147 “Dato 12” , the first Carrera with chronograph and calendar functions, and the rare reference 2447 NS.

But TAG Heuer looked to the 1970s for the inspiration for the new domed crystals that top these debuts, remaking in sapphire the hesalite crystals found on Carrera watches from that era.

The new crystal features a curve that flows seamlessly over the tachymeter scale, which runs around the dial edge and into the case. TAG Heuer has also added curves to the flange and indexes.

The additional curvature pleases the eye and also means the tachymeter can be read from a wider range of angles. The new steel-cased chronographs also sport new pushers.

To kick-off the new collection, TAG Heuer offers one new model with a familiar blue dial on a blue calfskin leather strap. The second model debuts with a sportier black and silver ‘reverse panda’ dial (above) and comes on a black perforated calfskin leather strap.

Both of the new TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Chronographs are powered by Caliber TH20-00, an updated version of the Heuer 02. Visible through the clear sapphire caseback, the new movement now features enhanced decoration and a bi-directional oscillating weight. Earlier versions only charged the movement’s mainspring when rotating in one direction. Both are priced at $6,450.

According to TAG Heuer Movements Director Carole Forestier, this new rotor design is a more significant change than you might imagine. When rotating daily, the new rotor is said to deliver faster and more reliable winding to ensure that the watch is more precise and that it is running closer to its maximum 80-hour power reserve.

Also new is the date display position. The date is at 6 o’clock on the blue-dialed model and at 12 o’clock on the ‘reverse panda’ version. Both new positions are said to clarify the wearer’s reading of the chronograph.

Chronograph Tourbillon

With the new Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon (above, $21,000), the watchmaker adds a sister model to the existing Carrera tourbillon, but here the tourbillon is framed (for the first time) with a smaller case (42mm) and a glass box crystal.

Echoing the look of the new Glassbox chronographs, the new tourbillon model is powered by Caliber TH20-09, TAG Heuer’s in-house tourbillon movement. This is a chronometer-certified automatic caliber with a chronograph function and an impressive sixty-five-hour power reserve.

With the Glassbox crystal, TAG Heuer expands the ability of the viewer to view the tourbillon. On the dial, TAG Heuer has curved the flange and indexes to both mirror and complement the edge of the crystal.

New silver rings make the chronograph sub-dials especially easy to see while the chronograph’s central seconds hand is triangular shaped much like hands seen on 1960s race car dashboard instruments.

New 42mm Carrera Chronographs

In addition to its Glassbox debuts, TAG Heuer also adds new color options to existing 42mm Carrera Chronographs.

With a black or a blue dial, these new chronographs offer orange details. Both are powered by TAG Heuer’s Heuer 02, an in-house automatic chronograph movement, and both arrive on high-end calfskin straps. Price: $5,550.

Watches and Wonders 2023: Oris ProPilot Altimeter

Bulgari Launches First Octo Roma Chronograph

Watches and Wonders 2023: The Chopard Alpine Eagle with Small Seconds

Watches and Wonders 2023: Hublot Expands Square Bang Unico

Watches and Wonders 2023: TAG Heuer Celebrates Carrera

AIKON AUTOMATIC DATE 42MM- Maurice Lacroix

interchangable DEFY Extreme Diver straps- Zenith

Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture- Frederique Constant