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TAG Heuer revisits its 1968 Carrera Dato with a monochrome teal green TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph that features the Dato’s signature minute counter subdial at the three o’clock position and date window at the 9 o’clock position.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph.

The new watch joins a slate of TAG Heuer debuts during LVMH Watch Week. Additional unveilings also include a Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon with a teal green dial that matches the new chronograph, an Aquaracer Solargraph and a new Carrera Date Plasma model set with lab-grown diamonds.  

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph joins an expanding collection of Carrera models topped with the domed sapphire Glassbox crystal first seen on many of the watchmaker’s 2023 debuts. The Glassbox pays homage to domed hesalite crystal designs from the 1970s.

The new 39mm steel watch nicely melds TAG Heuer’s vintage design with technical updates and a few modern touches. These include circular brushed finishing and a slightly curved flange that runs along the edge of the dial, enhancing marker visibility.

The watch also showcases TAG Heuer’s impressive in-house Heuer 02 (TH20-07), which offers a strong eighty-hour power reserve and bidirectional automatic winding.

TAG Heuer attaches the new Carrera Chronograph to a black alligator leather strap. 

Price: $6,550. 

Also new in 2024:

TAG Heuer unveils this TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon (pictured below) with its own teal green circular brushed dial. The 42mm watch features a tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock and is cased within the watchmaker’s Glassbox crystal.

The curved sapphire crystal provides the wearer with a clear view of the tourbillon.

Inside is the Heuer 02 – TH20-09 with bidirectional automatic winding. Price: $24,050. 

Also look for a notable expansion of the Aquaracer Professional Aquaracer Solargraph collection, now with a series 34mm steel-cased models, each with a different dial color and two with diamond markers.

The new size joins existing 40mm models and comes with the key features of the full Aquaracer collection: a unidirectional rotating bezel, screw-down crown, water resistance to 200 meters, luminous markings, sapphire crystal and a double safety clasp.

Of course, here the timekeeping is powered by light. Prices begin at $2,150. 

TAG Heuer also adds a new model to its glittering Carrera Date Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde series, adding a version with yellow diamonds.

The new 36mm white-gold-cased model, with a sparkling polycrystalline dial, features 4.8 carats of lab-grown diamonds and 1.4 carats of yellow lab-grown diamonds.

Hublot unveils the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium, the watchmaker’s tenth Manufacture Piece (MP) and a technical standout among a wide-ranging set of debuts for the Swiss watchmaker during LVMH Watch Week.

The new Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium.

Additional debuts include a colorful green model within Hublot’s Unico Saxem series, new yellow and light blue Orlinsky tourbillon models, two new Big Bang Integrated time-only ceramic models and a host of Spirit of Big Bang gem-set watches. 

No Hands

Continuing the avant-garde focus of the MP series, the MP-10 shows the time without hands, instead indicating hours and minutes via an aluminum roller display built directly within a linear movement.

Seconds are shown directly on the tourbillon case on the lower section of the dial. All three of these primary indicators utilize the same white lacquer typography and red triangular marker.

A fourth indicator displays the state of the watch’s 48-hour power reserve. This is shown with red and green disc.

Hublot powers the automatic movement and its 35-degree-inclined tourbillon via two linear weights, one of either side of the movement.

Hublot explains that its watchmakers have developed a patent-pending system of shock absorbers for these weights in order to wind the movement bidirectionally. 

In addition to its automatic system, the MP-10 can be wound manually by rotating the crown at 12 o’clock. The time is set using a second crown on the case-back.

Hublot notes that while the two-piece titanium case (54.1 mm by 41.5mm by 22.4mm) is relatively straight-forward, the sapphire crystal that sits on top is the watchmaker’s most complex yet as it combines inclined planes on three axes. The same applies to the integrated rubber strap, which Hublot calls “the most refined ever designed by the Manufacture.”

Price: $264,000. Hublot is offering the  MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium as a limited edition of fifty watches. 

Zenith unveils boutique editions of its existing Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback watches, both of which feature the brilliant blue dials we’ve seen on previous Zenith boutique-only launches.

The new Zenith Pilot Automatic, Boutique Edition

These latest models give a new look to two of Zenith’s top 2023 debuts. Each highlights the watchmaker’s signature sky blue hue as rendered on textured, grooved dials meant to recall the corrugated metal sheets of vintage aircraft. Both watches also sport the word Pilot on the dial, which Zenith notes is an especially significant detail. That’s because only Zenith holds the rights to mark its dials with the term.

Zenith makes one of the two new watches, the Pilot Automatic Boutique Edition, with a 40mm stainless steel case that features a distinctive flat-top round bezel, which complements the watch’s satin-brushed, rounded case. 

Above the date window you’ll see a luminescent hour marker in the form of a flat white line. This detail is meant to recall the artificial horizon instrument in plane’s cockpit.

The new 42.5mm Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback, Boutique Edition.

As the second of the new boutique-only watches, the new 42.5mm Pilot Big Date Flyback Boutique Edition offers a monotone sky-blue big date wheels to match the dial. More complicated with its flyback function, the watch’s namesake display that, combined with its large crown, was originally made for pilots who wore thick sheepskin gloves.

The flyback function allows the chronograph to be reset to zero and restarted by a single push of a button, simplifying the pilot’s operations and offering the possibility to record consecutive times without having to stop and restart.

From the back of the Pilot Big Date Flyback the wearer can eye an El Primero 3652 chronograph caliber with its “artificial horizon” rotor visible. (See below for all technical specifications). 

Zenith fits the watch on a blue rubber strap and also provides a brown  calfskin strap. All the straps come with an integrated quick-release mechanism for easy swapping without tools.

Prices: $7,500 (Pilot Automatic) and $11,500 (Pilot Big Date Flyback), both available in Zenith physical and online boutiques. 

 

Specifications:

Zenith Pilot Automatic, Boutique Edition 

(Reference: 03.4000.3620/51.I003)

Key points: El Primero 3-hands watch. High-frequency movement (5Hz). Full interchangeable strap system. Boutiques Edition.

Movement: El Primero 3620 SC, automatic

Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)

Power reserve: Approx. 60 hours

Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. Central seconds hand. Date indication at 6 o’clock.

Finishes: Special “Pilot artificial horizon” black oscillating weight

Material: Stainless steel

Water resistance: 10 ATM

Case: 40mm

Dial: Blue with horizontal grooves

Hour markers: Applied Arabic numerals in SuperLuminova SLN C1

Hands: Blue & white with SLN C1

Bracelet & Buckle: Comes with 2 straps: Blue “Cordura” effect rubber and a brown calfskin leather with folding clasp.

 

Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback, Boutique Edition

(Reference: 03.4000.3652/51.I003)

Key points: Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph with flyback function. Patented Big Date at 6 o’clock. Instantaneous Big Date jump in 0.007 sec (0.02 for discs jump & stabilization). Full Interchangeable strap system. Boutiques Edition.

Movement: El Primero 3652, automatic

Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)

Power reserve: approx. 60 hours

Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. Small seconds at 9 o’clock. Instantaneous Big Date at 6 o’clock. Flyback Chronograph. 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock.

Finishes: Special “Pilot artificial horizon” black oscillating weight

Material: Stainless steel 

Water resistance: 10 ATM

Case: 42.5mm

Dial: Blue with horizontal grooves

Hour markers: Applied arabic numerals in SuperLuminova SLN C1

Hands: Blue & white with SLN C1

Bracelet & Buckle: Comes with 2 straps: Blue “Cordura” effect rubber and a brown calfskin leather with folding clasp.

British watchmaker Peter Speake continues his collaborative work with Geneva-based watch manufacture Frederique Constant, launching the Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Designed by Peter Speake, a steel-grey hued edition of the brown-accented collaborative watch from 2022.

The new Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Designed by Peter Speake.

The new 42mm steel-cased perpetual calendar retains the skeletonized design of the original model. The openwork design nicely displays Frederique Constant’s own automatic FC-775  caliber, here showing the hour and minutes without a seconds hand.

The idea is to allow the eye to more clearly focus on the perpetual calendar displays, which include the day and date, the month (at 12 o’clock), moonphase (at 6 o’clock) and, finally, the leap year. 

Frederique Constant explains that “since this detail is not needed for everyday use, it has been moved over to the month display at 12 o’clock. A discreet red dot appears for the month in question when the year has 366 days; at all other times, the window remains white.”

Frederique Constant finishes its in-house movement with a circular satin finish and blued screws. The watch’s transparent caseback displays an openwork, blue-colored oscillating weight. Also visible are the words ‘Limited Edition 135 pieces’ which are engraved on each watch. Each watch arrives on a grey nylon strap with matching overstitching. 

Price: $11,995.

 

Specifications: Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Designed by Peter Speake

(Reference FC-775PS4S6, a limited édition of 135) 

Functions: Hours, minutes, moonphase, date, day, month, leap year.

 

Movement: FC-775 in-house caliber, automatic, perpetual calendar, Perlage decoration on movement, anthracite bridge, blue rotor, satin finishing on all springs, circular finishing on perpetual calendar wheels, 38-hour power reserve, 28,800 alt/h. 

 

Case: Polished stainless steel 3-part case, diameter of 42mm, height of 12,05 mm

Anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal, see-through case back, water-resistant to 3 ATM/30m/100ft.

 

Dial: Grey color dial with matte finishing, skeleton, luminescent printed indexes, 

White and polished hands with luminous treatment, moonphase with luminous treatment.

 

Strap: Grey nylon strap with tone-on-tone stitching, folding buckle.

 

Availability March 2024 at the Citizen Flagship Store New York and at select Frederique Constant retailers.

H. Moser fits a stunning dial made from Wyoming-sourced jade into its Streamliner tourbillon to create the new Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Wyoming Jade, a limited edition (of 100) red gold watch.

The new H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Wyoming Jade.

The logo-free jade dial allows the Streamliner’s one-minute flying tourbillon to stand out nicely (at 6 o’clock), highlighting this independent Swiss watchmaker’s considerable technical and artisanal talent.

Collectors may be familiar with the Streamliner’s retro-styled cushion case and the unusual double-hairspring HMC 804 automatic caliber that powers the watch, but until now no one has seen how a rare olive-toned slice of jade can enhance the Streamliner’s pleasing aesthetic.

H. Moser explains that its dial-makers sourced the dial’s raw material from Wyoming. Chosen for its naturally occurring marks and unique shades, the jade used on the dial is untreated out of “respect for its original structure.” 

With the selected material, H. Moser explains that lapidary artisans cut the stone using CNC technology in a liquid environment to create a slice 1.0 to 1.2 mm thick. “These slices are then laid on jigs, wetted and inspected under a light to determine the optimal positioning of the plates for cutting the dials.” After hand polishing, dial makers varnish and then glue the dials onto a brass base.

H. Moser frames the dial of the new watch with a 40mm by 12.1mm red gold case, held with an equally luxurious red gold integrated bracelet. (See below for full technical specifications). 

Price: $119,000.

Specifications: H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Wyoming Jade

Reference 6804-0406, red gold model, natural Wyoming jade dial, integrated bracelet in red gold, limited edition of 100 pieces 

Case:

5N red gold topped by a slightly domed sapphire crystal

Diameter: 40.0 mm

Height without sapphire crystal: 10.3 mm

Height with sapphire crystal: 12.1 mm 

Screw-in crown adorned with an engraved “M”

See-through sapphire crystal case-back

Water-resistant to 12 ATM 

Dial:

Wyoming jade, 100% natural

Hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts 

5N red gold faceted indices 

Movement:

HMC 804 automatic Manufacture calibre

Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes 

Height: 5.5 mm 

Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour

Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system 

Oscillating weight in 18-carat red gold with engraved H. Moser & Cie. logo 

Power reserve: minimum of 3 days 

One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with skeletonized bridges 

Original double hairspring 

Strap/bracelet:

Integrated bracelet in 5N red gold  

Folding clasp with three blades in 5N red gold, engraved with the Moser logo 

Half-links available.