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The Watches

Ralph Lauren Expands Elegant 867 Collection 

Ralph Lauren expands its square-cased Art Deco 867 collection with four slightly smaller models and also adds precious metal cases and top-notch manual-wind movements to the collection’s offerings.

One of four new watches in the Ralph Lauren 867 collection. This 28mm model is cased in sterling silver.

The new models add two new case sizes to the collection with two 32mm models and two 28mm models. Both are offered in sterling silver or rose gold cases. The collection had previously only offered 35mm square-cased steel models.

These elegant, time-only designs echo Art Deco era glamour with nicely proportioned lacquered white dials made with concentric squares with Arabic and Roman numerals and sleek Breguet-style hands.

All the new models are powered by an extra-flat mechanical manual winding Swiss movement made for Ralph Lauren by Piaget and based on the watchmaker’s legendary Caliber 430. The movements are hand finished with vertical Côtes de Genève stripes and circular graining (perlage).

Ralph Lauren fits each watch with an interchangeable shiny black alligator strap with a sterling silver or 18-karat rose gold pin buckle. 

Prices: $8,250 (28mm silver case), $15,500 (28mm rose gold case), $8,350 (32mm silver case) and $17,000 (32mm rose gold case).

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The Watches

Hublot Launches Two Alpine Dials

Hublot launches its fourth ode to the Swiss ski resort town of Zermatt and the nearby Matterhorn with the new Big Bang Zermatt. The debut is actually two watches, each with a stone-like dial that features an engraved depiction of the Matterhorn.

Both watches are cased in steel and each features a sunray finished dial that Hublot says will reflect light onto the depiction of the Alp “like the faces of the Matterhorn under the continuously shifting sun.”

For the larger (44mm) watch of the duo, Hublot places the Matterhorn at the 9 o’clock position. Hublot shifts the Alp to the 3 o’clock position on the smaller (41mm) model, which also boasts a diamond bezel that might be said to mimic ice on the mountain. The smaller model also includes diamond markers.

Hublot carefully polishes each watch’s steel case with alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces in order to echo the look of schist, the stone similar to slate that forms a large part of the Matterhorn.

Both Big Bang Zermatt watches are powered by a Hublot automatic chronograph movement. The larger model ($15,100) is fit with Caliber HUB 4100 while the smaller, diamond-set edition ($19,100) is powered by HUB4300.

Both watches are water resistant to 100 meters. Hublot provides two nubuck straps: the first in slate grey, the second in snow white, in a tribute to the winter colors of Zermatt. 

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Featured News

HSNY Announces New Scholarships 

The Horological Society of New York (HSNY) announces three new financial aid opportunities and scholarships, each created to further support the Society’s mission of advancing the art and science of horology. These are:

The Charles Sauter Scholarship for Innovation in Horology — Honoring the innovative spirit of Charles Sauter who worked for Bulova Watches and served as Principal Engineer for the Apollo 17 Lunar Seismic Profiling Experiment, among other accomplishments.

The Charles London Scholarship for Watchmaking Students — Named after Charles London, a self-taught clock maker and emigrant whose business evolved into today’s London Jewelers.

The Simon Willard Award for School Watches. This scholarship opportunity encourages students to create a school watch before graduation, allowing them to showcase the multitude of skills learned in watchmaking school. The finished product can be the first step towards independent watchmaking — an art that preserves traditional watchmaking techniques.

HSNY notes that the application period for all scholarships is from January 1 to March 1 each year. Any student who has been accepted or is currently studying at a full-time watchmaking school in the U.S. is eligible to apply for financial aid. Prospective students may also apply with the understanding that the scholarships are contingent on their enrollment at a full-time watchmaking school.

HSNY will announce the scholarship awards in April, with awards of up to $5,000 (Sauter and London scholarships) and $10,000 (Willard award) available. For details and for a full list of requirements, see the HSNY website here.

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The Watches

Ulysse Nardin Whitens a Diver X Skeleton

Ulysse Nardin extends its X-themed skeleton dive watch collection with the new Diver X Skeleton White, a 44mm titanium-cased model with an openwork dial and concave, rubberized white bezel.

The new Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton White.

As the latest X-series model thus far in the watchmaker’s dive watch collection, the watch underscores its white theme with white markers, a white crown protector and a white rubber strap. Under and around the large polished and satin-finished X-shaped dial bridge Ulysse Nardin sensibly offers clear view of the UN-372 automatic caliber.

As with the existing Diver X models, the movement is also quite visible from its clear sapphire back, which exposes the movement’s silicon escapement wheel, pallet and balance-spring. Also on display is the logo-marked rotor, gearing and barrel cover.

Ulysse Nardin insures that the polished and satin-finished titanium case is water-resistant to 200 meters. The watchmaker attaches the case to your wrist with a white rubber strap complete with ‘Ulysse Nardin’ element and titanium folding clasp, or with a white woven strap.

Ulysse Nardin’s Caliber UN-372.

Price: $26,400.

 

Specifications: Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton White 

 

Movement: Manufacture caliber UN-372 skeleton automatic. Oversized oscillator in silicon, escapement wheel, anchor & balance spring in silicon. Frequency 3 Hz (21,600 vph).

Case: 44mm titanium polished & satin-finished, concave rubberized unidirectional rotating bezel, titanium open sapphire case back, Water resistance to 200 meters.

Dial: Skeleton X shape polished and satin-finished grey, grey indexes and hands with Superluminova.

Strap: White rubber with UN titanium element with titanium deployant buckle and

white fabric strap with scratch closing. Compatible with R-STRAP.

Price: $26,400

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The Watches

Vulcain Revives 1960 Dive Model 

Independent Swiss watchmaker Vulcain, best known for its Cricket mechanical alarm watches, revives its Nautique dive watch collection from 1960 with the new Skindiver Blue and Skindiver Black, a 38mm steel model offered in a blue or black dial option.

The new Vulcain Skindiver Black.

Both retro-styled dive models feature a modern ceramic fluted bezel insert, khaki brown Super-Luminova-enhanced hands and indexes, domed sapphire crystal and easy-to-read white markers.

The new Vulcain Skindiver Blue.

The retro update also includes a modern ETA 2824 automatic movement protected within a case made water resistant to 200 meters.

Based in Le Locle, Vulcain has made a name for itself for decades with its Cricket mechanical alarm watch. But under the relatively new product guidance of Guillaume Laidet, who oversaw the revival of Nivada Grenchen and Excelsior Park after starting and then selling his own brand William L. 1985, Vulcain has extensive plans to re-introduce itself to modern collectors and enthusiasts. Vulcain’s most recent Cricket reboot was met with a strong positive consumer reaction.

Vulcain offers the new watch on a leather strap with a black carbon pattern and matching stitching. The strap case be easily swapped with Vulcain’s own ‘quick-change’ system.

Price: $1,616.

Specifications: Vulcain Skindiver

References: Black version – VUL-DI-001 / Blue version – VUL-DI-002 

Movement: Automatic ETA 2824 with 38-hour power reserve.

Case: 38mm by 12.2mm 316L vertical-brushed stainless steel, domed sapphire crystal, unidirectional rotating bezel with black ceramic insert, polished stainless steel caseback. Water resistance to 200 meters.

Dial options: Matte black with white transfer print and khaki brown Super-Luminova-enhanced hands and indexes (VUL-DI-001) Vertical-brushed blue with white transfer print and khaki brown Super-Luminova-enhanced hands and indexes (VUL-DI-002) 

Strap: Black leather with carbon pattern and matching stitching, stainless steel buckle. 

Price: $1,616.

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