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Watches and Wonders 2024: Grand Seiko’s Red-Dialed Beauty 

Among the many impressive new watches Grand Seiko debuted during Watches & Wonders 2024, this red-dialed Spring Drive Chronograph GMT (SBGC275) is particularly notable.

The Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition: SBGC275

Meant to recall the sun’s terrestrial light show as it rises and sets in the Hotaka mountain range in the Shinshu region of central Japan (where Grand Seiko makes its Spring Drive watches), the distinctive dial appears to change colors with each viewing, as the ambient light itself changes.

Grand Seiko launches the watch, which joins the watchmaker’s Sport Collection, as it celebrates the 20th anniversary of the first Grand Seiko watch powered by the 9R Spring Drive movement series. 

The watchmaker explains that this dial is made possible through the use of a new dial-processing technology that involves a patented dial-coating process known as “Optical Multilayer Coating.”

“Instead of traditional techniques to color the dial, the new technology uses a physical vapor deposition process,” explains Grand Seiko’s Jon Bues. “Several layers of nanoscale film create an effect in which the dial exhibits a different hue depending on the angle of view. Combined with the silent glide motion of the seconds hand, the transitioning dial colors bring a new dimension to the idea of the nature of time.”

Set within Grand Seiko’s angular case, inspired by the shape of a lion (a Grand Seiko symbol) this newest Spring Drive Chronograph GMT offers notable claw-like, hairline-finished lugs that contrast nicely with the watch’s many Zaratsu-polished surfaces.

With curved lugs and a low center of gravity, the new watch sits comfortably
on the wrist.

The high-intensity titanium 44.5mm by 16.8mm case weights about thirty percent less than stainless steel and has a brighter color. That brightness continues amid the eye-catching red-orange with Luminous hands and markers.

Here Grand Seiko careful considers the light once again, with two colors of Lumibrite: green for the markers and the hour and minute hands and blue for the GMT hand and the numbers on the bezel. This enhances the watch’s legibility in dark conditions.

To symbolize enhanced accuracy, an 18k gold Grand Seiko lion emblem can be seen on the movement’s oscillating weight.

Inside Grand Seiko fits its excellent Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Caliber 9R96, a specially adjusted version of Caliber 9R86. The movement delivers an accuracy of ±10 seconds per month, or ±0.5 seconds per day.

Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Caliber 9R96, a specially adjusted version of Caliber 9R86.

Grand Seiko is offering the Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition (SBGC275) as a limited edition of 700, available at the Grand Seiko Boutiques and select retail partners worldwide in July. Price: $13,400. 

Specifications: Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition: SBGC275

Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Caliber 9R96
Driving system: Automatic
Accuracy: ±10 seconds per month (±0.5 seconds per day) Power reserve: 72 hours
GMT hand
Chronograph up to 12 hours
Number of jewels: 50
High-intensity titanium case and bracelet
Three-fold clasp with push-button release, secure lock, and extender Dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating See-through screw case back
Screw-down crown
Water resistance: 20 bar
Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m
Diameter: 44.5mm, Thickness: 16.8mm
Price: $13,400
Limited edition of 700

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The Watches

Philipp Plein’s Hexagonal Luxury

A year after Philipp Plein launched its first luxury watches, the Lugano-based  edgy fashion and design house adds the Crypto King Hexagon and the Crypto King Flying Tourbillon to its collection of bold, tonneau-shaped timekeepers.

The Philipp Plein Flying Tourbillon Dragon Fire
The Philipp Plein Flying Tourbillon Dare Devil XII

While Philipp Plein’s debut entries into the luxury watch market turned the the brand’s signature skull into a three-dimensional dial on last year’s Crypto King, the new models play with the brand’s double P logo, which dominates the skeletonized dial of the Crypto King Hexagon and serves as the 12 o’clock marker on the four new Crypto King Flying Tourbillon watches.

The Philipp Plein Flying Tourbillon Ninja Panda.

The tourbillon models, imaginatively named Dare Devil XII, Ninja Panda, Dragon Fire and Night Wolf, each sport distinctive colors and intricate patterns on a 55mm by 46mm forged carbon case.

The Philipp Plein Flying Tourbillon Night Wolf.

Each retains the namesake hexagonal pattern throughout the watch, with the six-sided shape visible throughout the case and as the head pattern of the ten steel or gold screws around the dial. The same hexagon pattern infuses the collection’s transparent PU and colorful silicone straps.

The brightest color combination is found on the Dare Devil XII watch, which features white stripes across a bright red carbon case. A black and orange pairing dominates the Dragon Fire while the black and white Ninja Panda offers a more classical color combination.

For the fourth entry, the Night Wolf (above), Philipp Plein enhanced the watch’s luxury quotation with a set of 18-karat rose gold screws, gold markers, hands and logo and a gilded crown. 

The skeleton ‘dial’ is essentially a look into and through the flying tourbillon movement with its blackened, hexagonal-shaped bridges and multiple spline screws portraying a very contemporary movement design.

Each watch also portrays Philipp Plein’s distinctive brand personality on the back, where you’ll see the designer’s smiley face and skull images, along with the watchmaker’s signature initials. 

Produced in limited edition, each Crypto King Flying Tourbillon is powered by a highly customized PWL100LPP flying tourbillon movement made for Philipp Plein by Swiss movement maker Landeron. 

Crypto King Hexagon

Less complex than the flying tourbillon models, the series of colorful Crypto King Hexagon debuts still offers bright hues and a full slate of Philipp Plein icons, including its signature hexagonal motif.

The Philipp Plein Red Phantom Crypto King Hexagon.

Framing the PP logo at the center of the skeletonized dial, the hexagon shape dominates the case sides, bezel, strap and back. The case side and case back are particularly open, each showcasing a partial view of the Swiss-made Landeron automatic movement.

The Philipp Plein Crypto King Hexagon measure just a bit smaller in width than the flying tourbillon model, measuring 45mm across compared to the 46mm flying tourbillon width.

The coloring here is also somewhat subdued when compared to its larger sibling, with solid case colors (black, clear and a terrific transparent red color) rather than a striped pattern. 

Prices on request.  

 

Specifications: Philipp Plein Crypto King Flying Tourbillon

Case: Forged Carbon 55mm x 46 mm with hexagonal pattern, see-through caseback. Double dome sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Water resistance: 30 meters.

Movement: Landeron PWL100LPP manual-winding flying tourbillon coaxial with hours and minutes, 18 jewels, frequency: 28,800 vph, lift angle: 52 degrees, power reserve is 42 hours.

Dial: Open-worked, three-dimensional. 

Strap: Transparent PU or silicone strap.

 

Specifications: Philipp Plein Crypto King Hexagon 

Case: 55mm x 45 mm with transparent effect and hexagonal pattern. Crystal is  double dome sapphire with anti-reflective coating, see-through caseback. Water resistant to 50 meters. 

Movement: Landeron 24 skeletonized automatic.

Dial: Double-layer see-through with Hexagon PP logo.

Strap: Transparent PU or black silicone strap.

 

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Watches and Wonders 2024: The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad

 

Ulysse Nardin expands its hands-free Freak universe with the new Freak S Nomad, which places a thoroughly modern, dual-oscillator flying carousel movement atop a hand-cut diamond guilloché pattern hour-disc dial finished in sand-colored CVD.

The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad

Set in a 45mm titanium and carbon-fiber case, the new dual-oscillator Caliber UN-251 Manufacture movement is a flying carousel that mimics the outline of a spacecraft. This particular craft not only powers and regulates the watch, but, as with all Freak movements, it serves as the watch’s minute indicator while it rotates around its own axis.

For enhanced efficiency and stability, Ulysse Nardin treats the movement’s dual oscillators and silicon balance wheels (inclined at 20 degrees) with a diamond coating called DIAMonSIL.

The watchmaker then coats the movement’s bridges with an anthracite-hued PVD and packs the minute hand with plenty of luminous light blue SuperLumiNova.

To wind the watch, Ulysse Nardin fits its own Grinder ultra-efficient winding system into the back, powering a full seventy-two-hour power reserve. The watchmaker calls Grinder “an automatic system that’s twice as efficient as a traditional automatic system.”

Ulysse Nardin is offering the Freak S Nomad as a limited edition of ninety-nine, each offered with a choice of two straps: one anthracite rubber ‘ballistic’ and the other in matte-finished anthracite alligator with sand-colored calfskin leather accents.

Ulysse Nardin has filed more than twenty patents for the Freak since 2001. You might recall that last year the watchmaker took home the Iconic Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève for its Freak One. 

Price: $148,300.

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Watches and Wonders 2024: Parmigiani Fleurier Updates Toric and Drops a Date

Parmigiani Fleurier launches the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date, creating an even more minimalistic option within its Tonda PF Micro-Rotor series.

 

The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date.

The debut comes alongside a terrific new Toric collection that the watchmaker launched as its primary Watches and Wonders 2024 highlight. (We’ll have much more about the new Toric in a future post.) 

At Watches and Wonders 2024, Parmigiani Fleurier launched a new Toric collection, including a manual wind model (pictured) and a chronograph rattrapante (pictured below).
The new Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante

The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date

In the full Parmigiani Fleurier collection since 2021, the initial Tonda PF Micro-Rotor watch displayed only minutes, hours and date on its signature, ultra-clean Grain d’Orge guilloche dial. 

The newest, cleaner dial echoes the existing date-free models within the Tonda PF Automatic series and the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante collection, the latter of which was a highlight of the 2022 Watches and Wonders exhibit.

With this new iteration, the watchmaker strips the 40mm by 7.8mm watch of even its date display, leaving only the 18-karat gold, rhodium-plated skeletonized delta-shaped hands to offer the sole time display.

Parmigiani Fleurier retains the eye-catching guilloche dial pattern here, creating a specialized Golden Siena color.  The watchmaker describes the hue as “a shade with moiré effects directly inspired by the rich “sienna” palette, thus celebrating the subtle nuances and naturalness of the earth.”

Turn the watch over for a busier display. From the back, you’ll see the platinum oscillating weight as its powers the highly decorated PF703 automatic caliber.

Here more of the underlying movement plate can be viewed than is typical in other watches with micro-rotors. That’s because Parmigiani Fleurier watchmakers have created a specialized, slightly smaller rotor built with a unique shape.

Price: $25,300. 

Specifications: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date

FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes

MOVEMENT: PF703 – Automatic Manufacture movement with platinum 950 micro-rotor. Power reserve: 48 hours

Frequency: 21,600 Vph (3 Hz)
Jewels: 29
No. of components: 160
Overall diameter: 30.6 mm
Thickness : 3.07 mm
Decoration : Côtes de Genève, Perlage Oscillating weight: platinum 950 micro- rotor, Grain d’Orge guilloché

DIAL: Color: Golden Siena
Finishing: Grain d’Orge hand-guilloché Indices: hand-applied rhodium-plated appliques
Hands: 18-karat gold rhodium-plated, skeletonized delta-shaped

CASE: Polished and satin-finished stainless steel with platinum 950 with knurled bezel Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 7.8mm, Crown: 4.3mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire. Case back: sapphire glass
Engraving on case back: serial number – “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”
Water resistance: 100 meters.

BRACELET:

Polished and satin-finished stainless steel bracelet
Closure: stainless steel folding clasp

Price: $25,300.

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Watches and Wonders 2024: Hublot Downsizes Big Bang 

The latest entry to the Hublot Big Bang series is not so big and displays a bit less bang.

One of six debuts The new Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only collection.

The new Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only, one of many Watches and Wonders 2024 debuts from the Swiss watchmaker, takes Hublot back in time to its 1980 roots with its three-hand-and-date display within an integrated 38mm case. 

While 38mm models with similar dials can be found in the current Big Bang Original collection, all are higher-priced diamond models. (Most existing Big Bang Original models measure 41mm or 44mm in diameter.)

The existing models are all also attached to straps. The new models feature fully integrated bracelets that offer a clean, screw-free link with their case. 

The 2024 debut series maintains Big Bang’s so-called ‘ears’ on each side of the case, as well as the six H-shaped functional screws that secure the bezel. The new watches also displays time with the Big Bang’s familiar large skeleton hour hand and minute hand, each accompanied a seconds hand that is tipped with the Hublot ‘H’. And as you can see, the same even-numbered indexes mark the time on the dial.

As an added bonus, all the debuts feature soft ferromagnetic steel dials that protect the Hublot MHUB1115 automatic movement from the problematic effects of magnetic fields.

Hublot debuts the Big Bang Integrated Time Only series with six models. Two are made with a brushed titanium case and bracelet, with a black or a blue dial. The next two versions are in King Gold, also with a blue or black dial. 

Two more versions are in cased in ceramic. One is entirely navy blue with a blue dial while the other is a familiar Black Magic style (above) known to Hublot collectors. The watch’s case, bracelet and dial are black, which makes it the first Big Bang Black Magic with a 38mm diameter (with an exception within the Classic Fusion series.)

Prices: $13,100 (Titanium), $15,300 (blue ceramic and Black Magic) and $47,100 (King Gold). 

Smaller Fusion Too

We’ll have more downsizing from Hublot in future posts. These smaller new models include of the 29mm Classic Fusion Original and Classic Fusion series in various case metals, with or without diamonds.  Here’s a preview: 

Two examples of Hublot’s new Classic Fusion models available in a wide range of 29mm case metals.
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