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TAG Heuer revives its Carrera Skipper this week, four decades after the colorful regatta countdown timer disappeared from the watchmaker’s line-up.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper.

Returning as a 39mm steel watch, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper retains its brightly colored dress, sporting a circular-brushed blue primary dial with sub-dials in contrasting teal, green and orange.

The new model also features the Carrera’s new bezel-free ‘glassbox’ design with a broader sapphire crystal and curved flange dial, a combination that extends the viewing angle for the dial.

The new Skipper also retains many of the design features that marked the original, including large triangle-shaped markers at five-minute intervals around the outer curved flange, a bright orange central seconds hand and the Skipper name emblazoned at the base of the 12-hour counter. The new model adds a date to the dial.

New Series

The launch is just the start of a maritime revival for the watchmaker. TAG Heuer says it plans to create a new series of nautical watches led by the revived Carrera Skipper. The series will “mark TAG Heuer’s return to the world of yachts and yachting,” according to the watchmaker.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper (right) with the original from 1968.

TAG Heuer’s involvement in yacht racing starts in the 1940s, but the Skipper’s history commenced after the 1967 America’s Cup. That’s when Jack Heuer provided with winning yacht, the Intrepid, with a set of hand-held yachting stop watches and equipped her crew with Aquastar wrist watches featuring a customized countdown timer made of a red and white disc that rotated behind a series of five holes.

To celebrate that win, Heuer created the Skipper chronograph in 1968 with a 30-minute subdial that was adapted to count-down the fifteen-minute regatta ‘pre-start’ in three, five-minute segments. Later versions of the Skipper used the Autavia case, according to TAG Heuer, though the very first examples were based on the Carrera chronograph.

TAG Heuer is powering the new Carrera Skipper with its TH20-06 movement that boasts bi-directional winding and an impressive 80-hour power reserve.

Price: $6,750.

 

Specifications: TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper 

(CBS2213.FN6002) 

Movement: Caliber TH20-06 automatic displaying hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph 

Dial: Blue circular brushed. Blue flange with 60 second / minute scale 3 counters: 

 – 3 o’clock: green, orange & teal color lacquered 15-minute count-down
indicator; rhodium plated polished hand
–  6 o’clock: blue permanent second indicator; rhodium plated polished hand
–  9 o’clock: teal color lacquered hour chronograph counter; SKIPPER printed;
rhodium plated polished hand.

Rhodium-plated facetted, polished applied indexes, rhodium-plated facetted, polished hour and minute hands with white SuperLumiNova and orange lacquered triangle-shaped tip. Orange lacquered central hand 6 o’clock angled date

Case: 39mm by 13.9mm fine brushed and polished steel, bezel free construction, ‘glassbox’ domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment. Water resistance is 100 meters.

Bracelet: Blue fabric strap with polished steel folding clasp with double safety pushbuttons

Price: $6,750.

Greubel Forsey plans to nearly triple the size of its manufacturing facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds with an investment of 20 million Swiss francs. Set to be completed by 2026, the expansion is aimed at strengthening the watchmaker’s research and development, heighten its watchmaking autonomy and gradually increase production capacity.

Expanding from 2,000 square meters to 5,460 square meters, Greubel Forsey intends to build a new building that will encompass the existing structure (which dates from 2009) while retaining the architectural features specific to this site. Work is scheduled to start in the first quarter of 2024, marking the brand’s 20th anniversary.

The underground level of the new facility will include storage areas and an employee wellness room, while the ground floor will house production, logistics, quality control and R&D areas. The upper floors will be dedicated to assembly, hand finishing, clean rooms, laboratories, product development with research and design offices, as well as after-sales service, administration and other related areas.

The adjacent 17th-century farmhouse, a symbol of Greubel Forsey’s traditional roots, will be transformed into a VIP area, a lounge, a museum and a restoration workshop.

The Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe.

“This new facility will enable us to integrate new skill sets, create new workshops – especially in R&D Innovation – and push the boundaries of hand finishing excellence with a team dedicated solely to hand finishing R&D,” says Greubel Forsey CEO Antonio Calce. He adds that a number of workshops will be set up, including one dedicated solely to mastering the regulating organ (balance spring and balance wheel) and another to making complex cases.

Greubel Forsey’s 30˚ inclined balance wheel, seemingly suspended in mid-air, is held by a beautiful flat black polished and barrel polished steel balance wheel bridge on polished steel pillars.

Greubel Forsey reports that in 2022 it manufactured 260 timepieces, all of which were delivered to collectors and enthusiasts. Look to the watchmaker launching new timepieces and an 8th Fundamental Invention this year.

Source: Greubel Forsey 

Zenith adds three very cool Ice Blue models to its Defy Skyline collection and debuts a new comprehensive strap service on its online boutique.

One of three new Zenith Defy Skyline Icy Blue Boutique editions debuts, here in 36mm.

Offered in 41mm and 36mm sizes, the new Defy Skyline Ice Blue Boutique Edition models maintain the Skyline’s signature angular steel case with a dodecagonal bezel, a shape Zenith credits to its own Defy designs from 1969.

The new Zenith Defy Skyline Ice Blue Boutique Edition, 36mm model with diamond bezel.

Instead of the dark blue dials of many earlier Skyline debuts, this new trio exhibits a summer-ready icy blue metallic color engraved with the Skyline’s four-pointed-star pattern. As with all Zenith Skyline models, the date wheels are colored to match the dials.

Zenith is launching one 41mm model and two 36mm models with the new color scheme. One of the 36mm models is set with a diamond bezel.

The new Zenith Defy Skyline Ice Blue Boutique Edition 41mm model with the 1/10 second indicator. 

At the same time Zenith unveils a new service on its online boutique that allows buyers to browse and purchase from a selection of compatible straps. While the service is debuting in Europe now, online customers in North America and Japan will be able to use the service starting in September.

Inside the 41mm model Zenith fits its El Primero 3620 automatic high-frequency  (36,000 vph) caliber that offers a unique 1/10th-of-a-second indicator driven directly from the escapement. The watch features a power reserve of sixty hours.

The back of the Zenith Elite 670 caliber.

The two smaller models are powered by Zenith’s Elite 670 automatic manufacture movement, which offers a power reserve of fifty hours. Each model features a star-shaped oscillating weight that can be viewed through a sapphire display back. 

Zenith is supplying each watch in the new Defy Skyline Ice Blue Boutique Edition with a steel bracelet finished with a satin-brushed surface and chamfered, polished edges.

In addition, each watch arrives with an ‘Ice Blue’ rubber strap with a starry sky pattern and a steel folding clasp. The customer can quickly swap straps without using any tools thanks to Zenith’s quick strap-change mechanism.

Finally, while the 41mm is available only on the Zenith online boutique, both 36mm models are available from both physical and online boutiques.

Prices: $8,500 (36mm), $9,000 (41mm) and $12,000 (36mm with diamonds).  

Ulysse Nardin revisits its futuristic UFO marine chronometer clock, made in partnership with Maison L’Epée, adding three new colorful limited editions.

All three debuts are tied to a retail partnership: a green model represents Yoshida in Japan, ice blue is for Bucherer and a champagne-colored UFO commemorates the watchmaker’s relationship with The Hour Glass in South-East Asia.

As we noted when Ulysse Nardin debuted the first UFO in 2021 to celebrate the watchmaker’s 175th anniversary, the sixteen-pound, 10.3-inch-tall aluminum and glass clock is the futuristic interpretation of what Ulysse Nardin’s designers, engineers, and watchmakers think a marine chronometer should look like in 175 years.

The UFO’s rounded base allows for a swinging motion that is meant to conjure images of the perpetually moving ocean and Ulysse Nardin’s history as a maker of award-winning marine chronometers. 

Ulysse Nardin sold out its first seventy-five piece run of the dark blue UFO. In addition, a second UFO tinted orange sold for CHF 380,000 at the Only Watch charity auction in 2021. This newest UFO trio, each to be made as a limited edition of thirty pieces, will mark the clock’s final production.

The clock rocks 

Maison L’Epée and Ulysse Nardin constructed the UFO to swing up to 60° from its axis – an amplitude of 120 degrees – without altering its precision.

L’Epée requires 663 components, and plenty of time, to build each UFO, with the three trapezoidal dials being among the clock’s most complex components. The manufacturer says it takes twenty-eight hours to manufacture eight of the dials. Three are placed into each UFO to allow the owner to display three different time zones at once, each seen from a different angle.

The UFO features six massive barrels that confer a full year of power reserve when fully wound with forty turns of a key. At the top of the movement L’Epee and Ulysse Nardin have installed a dramatic slow-beat, large-diameter (49mm) brass balance wheel.

The size and the leisurely 3,600 bph balance frequency (one per second) soothes the viewer while also contributing to movement’s ultra-long power reserve. And to put a finer point on the clock’s meditative rate, you’ll find a dead-beat second indicator just below the balance.   

Ulysse Nardin includes a limited-edition certificate and a winding and setting key in the wooden box that houses each UFO.

Price: $68,600.

 

Specifications: Ulysse Nardin UFO

Three limited editions of 30 numbered pieces: 

UFO | Yoshida Exclusive – 9023-900LE-8A-YOS
UFO | Bucherer Exclusive – 9023-900LE-3A-BUCH
UFO | The Hour Glass Exclusive – 9023-900LE-9A-THG 

Movement: UN-902 caliber table clock, manually wound movement displaying three time zones, hours, minutes, deadbeat second, 675 components, six barrels, extra-large oscillator (49mm),  0.5 Hz /3,600 Alt/H, one-year power reserve.

Case: Colored aluminum and blown glass measuring 263mm (H) x 159mm. Weight: 15.8 pounds.

Price: $68,600

Junghans updates its aviation watch collection with two contemporary variations of the Meister Pilot Chronoscope plus the Meister Pilot Automatic Navy Blue, a new three-hand-with-date model.

The new Junghans Meister Pilot Chronoscope Desert.

The two new Chronoscope models watches retain the existing Meister Pilot case size (43.3mm) and bicompax chronograph design (small second at 3 o’clock, 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock) but sport a slightly larger Arabic numeral set, a vintage Junghans logo and a cleaner dial that dispenses with the inner five-minutes track found on the current Meister Pilot models.

The new Junghans Meister Pilot Chronoscope Navy Blue.

Junghans also retains one of the characteristic steel case features of Meister Pilot collection: the twelve concave case recesses that are meant to allow for more precise bezel adjustments.

Caseback view of the Meister Pilot Chronoscope Navy Blue.

One of the two new watches,  the Meister Pilot Chronoscope Navy Blue , pays homage to the famed North American Curtiss P-40 while the other, the Meister Pilot Chronoscope Desert, offers a sand-colored dial and a brown-black DLC-coated steel case.

Junghans is offering the Meister Pilot Chronoscope Navy Blue as a limited edition of 300 watches, each boasting a black DLC-coated steel case.

The new Junghans Meister Pilot Automatic Navy Blue.

No-Chrono

The new Meister Pilot Automatic Navy Blue offers the same pilot style but without the chronograph and with a date. 

Junghans has added a date disc made to resemble a cockpit display, complete with red accents and a contrasting small seconds hand. Instead of a the chronograph caliber found in the Chronoscopes, the Meister Pilot Automatic Navy Blue is powered by the ETA-based Caliber J880.1.6.

Junghans has a long history making aviation timers, starting in the 1930s when the German-based company supplied onboard clocks for numerous aircraft. In the 1950s, Junghans was awarded a contract for the newly established German Air force and subsequently developed the J88 intermediate-wheel chronograph.

Prices: 1,995 euros (Meister Pilot Automatic) and 2,590 euros (both new Meister Pilot Chronoscope models).