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With its CVD-coated blue case and swirling black dial, the new Chronoswiss Open Gear Blue Spark is meant to echo the energy of an electrical charge.

The new Chronoswiss Open Gear Blue Spark.

The watch melds a classical regulator dial layout with a stunning hand-guilloche swirling dial pattern meant to remind its wearer of pure energy.

The Chronoswiss Open Gear series is comprised of  regulator dial watches that feature a prominent, separate central minute hand and secondary hour and seconds hands. The layout was historically placed on reference clocks for use by watchmakers to quickly read the time while setting new or repaired timepieces.

 

The swirled black dial here provides an energetic backdrop for a blue hour ring at the 12 o’clock position. This is paired with the long minute hand and a small seconds display at six o’clock, which provides its own whirlpool of time.

 

The display is presented on two levels with the upper level showcasing skeletonized gear train bridges and the hour and seconds indicators and the lower showcasing the intricate, hand-crafted dial work.

 

The Chronoswiss Open Gear style is present throughout the watch with its 41mm stainless steel case, satin-finished and polished knurled bezel and onion crown. Through the clear sapphire back you’ll see Chronoswiss’s Caliber C. 299, an automatic movement with a skeletonized rotor.

Price: $11,600. Limited edition of 50. 

Hublot and watch retailer Bucherer 1888 celebrate their partnership with the launch of two new limited edition Big Bang Unico watches. The duo is the third exclusive Bucherer model made by Hublot since the partnership commenced in 2008.

The New Hublot Big Bang Unico Bucherer Exclusive Titanium.

One model, the Big Bang Unico Bucherer Exclusive Titanium, shines with a polished 42mm titanium case that Hublot contrasts with a clear sapphire bezel, and the collection’s familiar skeletonized dial. A white rubber strap adds a sporty touch.

The second debut, the Big Bang Unico Bucherer Exclusive Ceramic, combines a 42mm micro-blasted black ceramic case with a polished black sapphire bezel and skeletonized dial. Here, a darker rubber strap matches the case.

The new Hublot Big Bang Unico Bucherer Exclusive Ceramic.

Hublot powers both watches with its excellent in-house, almost fully exposed Unico HUB1280 movement endowed with a seventy-two hour power reserve.

Each watch is a limited edition of thirty pieces to be offered in selected Bucherer boutiques and online in the United Kingdom, Germany, France and the United States. Prices: $43,900 (black ceramic) and $42,000 (titanium). 

Mondaine fits its well-known Swiss railway dial design into a sharp-looking cushion-shaped steel case to debut a full Cushion Collection. The brand’s famed red dot seconds hand glides around the dials of two models, one a 41mm chronograph and the other a 31mm time-only model.

The new 41mm Mondaine Grand Cushion.

These designs are distinctive and very Swiss. Traveling through Switzerland by train means frequently sighting the source of Mondaine’s minimalist watch dial named for the Federal Swiss Railways (SBB).

The Mondaine Petite Cushion, a 31mm time-only model.

At every train station you’ll see an easy-to-read black-and-white-dial clock originally designed by Hans Hilfiker in 1944 when he was working for the SBB. The design was enhanced in 1947 with the addition of a paddle-shaped seconds hand based on the stationmaster’s hand-held train signal.

Mondaine offers the 41mm Grand Cushion model with a Ronda quartz chronograph movement and a choice of three dial color options: dark green, dark blue and white.

Each watch arrives with a quick-release black or green strap as well as a Milanese mesh stainless steel bracelet.

The watchmaker’s Petite Cushion model fits best on smaller wrists. Like the chronograph model, the Petite Cushion is powered by a Ronda quartz movement and topped with a double-domed sapphire crystal.

Mondaine sells the smaller model only with a white dial (for now) but adds the color with two distinctive, eco-friendly straps: black vegan grape leather, red vegan grape leather.

With your choice of strap, Mondaine includes a Milanese mesh stainless steel bracelet and makes it easy to swap between strap and bracelet. 

Prices: $375 (31mm) and $595 (41mm chronograph).

Maurice Lacroix revisits its Aikon Automatic collection to celebrate summer, adding three colorful limited edition models in a selection of case sizes.

The watches all exhibit summery hues on their matte Clous de Paris dials, which Maurice Lacroix matches to an equally colorful rubber strap.

And as the watches are made for summertime outdoor wearing, Maurice Lacroix uses FKM rubber straps which are said to be more flexible and more weather resistant than standard rubber straps.

Maurice Lacroix also includes a five-row stainless steel bracelet with each watch and makes it simple to swap for the bracelet without the need for tools. 

For smaller wrists, Maurice Lacroix adds a 35mm case option (pictured below) available with a pink dial or a turquoise dial and matching strap. Each model in this smaller size also features a combination of baton markers and diamond-set hour indexes.

The two 35mm Aikon Automatic Limited Edition watches feature diamond markers.

The slightly larger 39mm Aikon Limited Summer Edition is also available with a pink or turquoise dials and strap, but without the gem set markers. Here, rhodium-finished markers indicate the hours.

Three 42mm models also include dials and straps in pink and turquoise, but add a third option with a bright orange dial (called Orange soda).

Unlike the others in the new collection, the 42mm orange model features a dial with black outlined markers rather than all-silver markers, and extend the contrasting hues with a black date field with white numerals.

Inside each of the Aikon Limited Summer Edition models Maurice Lacroix fits its Sellita-based ML-115 automatic movement. The movement’s decorated rotor is visible through the clear sapphire caseback on each watch. Each reference is limited to 888 pieces.

Prices: $2,500 (42mm and 39mm) and $2,550 (35mm with diamond markers). 

Greubel Forsey is launching its Balancier Convexe S² and its Double Balancier Convexe with smaller titanium cases, with the former now 2mm smaller at 41.5mm across while latter model drops 1mm to now measure 42.5mm across.

The new sizes retain the watchmaker’s existing Balancier and Double Balancer movements and places each into a slightly slimmer Convexe titanium case.

The new Greubel Forsey Balancier Convexe S² (41.5 mm, at left) and the Double Balancier Convexe (42.5 mm).

Greubel Forsey’s Convexe collection is characterized by an undulating bezel, first presented in 2019, and a curved layout that dramatically displays the caliber’s open-worked gears, wheels and bridges.

The new Greubel Forsey Balancier Convexe S², now in a slimmer 41.5mm titanium case.

The collection is meant to be this high-end maker’s contemporary ‘daily wear’ collection. You’ll see none of the Greubel Forsey foundational phrases engraved on the dial or bezel within this collection. And, with 100 meters of water resistance and fully integrated lugs, the watches fits snugly on the wrist for wearing comfort rain or shine. 

The watchmaker says the new sizes retain the “harmony of their proportions and the architectural requirements of the movement.” Each model limited in production and only be available between 2023 and 2026.

Balancier Convexe S²

Notably, the new size of this model places the hour ring closer to the sapphire crystal while the remaining double open-worked arch bridge maintain’s the multi-dimensional architectural design of the original.

Look for the newest Balancier Convexe S² in either a grey or blue livery (two editions).

In the grey model, Greubel Forsey utilizes a wide range of finishes meant to magnify each chromatic variation. This is created using frosted plates and straight-grained and mirror-polished surfaces. Breaking the grey layout is a colorful power reserve featuring an arrow that points out the long seventy-two-hour reserve performance.

On the blue version, Greubel Forsey offers a lighter-hued mainplate, a dark blue hour-ring and raised luminescent hour-markers. These make the large balance and small seconds display at 8 o’clock stand out.

Greubel Forsey will make eighty-eight pieces of each new 41.5 mm Balancier Convexe S² in titanium.

The Greuble Forsey Double Balancier Convexe is slightly smaller in a 42.5mm titanium case.

Double Balancier Convexe

For this model, Greubel Forsey has re-configured the case as well as the movement. The new 42.5mm case now slips more easily than its larger forebear under a fitted sleeve. It also displays a more natural titanium hue with a polished bezel with satin finishes, allowing for more dramatic light reflection, depending on the viewing angle.

Flanking each corner are the watch’s namesake two balance wheels, each inclined at 30° and separated by a constant spherical differential between the 6 o’clock and 7 o’clock positions that ‘calculates’ their average timing rate. (See below for full specification details.)

Within the bezel you’ll seem elements of contrasting light and shadow. For instance, the lettering on the barrel cover blends well with the case while the bridges of each balance wheel reveal the high level of hand-applied black polishing that characterizes Greubel Forsey movements.

Greubel Forsey offers the 42.5 mm Double Balancier Convexe with a grey rubber strap or on a beautifully integrated titanium bracelet.

Prices: Double Balancier Convexe: CHF 305,000 ($345,000).

Balancier Convexe S2: CHF 212,000 ($240,000).

 

Specifications: Greubel Forsey Balancier Convexe S2

The Balancier Convexe S²


Highlights:
Hours and minutes, small seconds, power-reserve, 30° inclined Greubel Forsey balance wheel system.

Movement: Manual Wind with 72-hour power reserve, frequency of 21,600 vibrations/hour. 

Barrels: Two coaxial series-coupled fast-rotating barrels (1 turn in 3.2 hours), one of which is equipped with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension, relief-engraved text, circular-grained, black treatment. 

Bridges and main plates: Titanium, frosted, polished beveling and countersinks, anthracite or blue treatment according to the version, multi-level, open-worked suspended-arch bridge, black treatment, straight-grained and polished, polished beveling and countersinks. 

Movement side: Frosted bridges, polished edges and beveling, gold plate with engraved limitation number, circular- grained, polished beveling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks .

Escapement: Titanium inclined at a 30° angle with frosted, polished countersinks, large straight-grained inclined facet, multi-level, open-worked balance wheel bridge, straight-grained and polished, polished beveling and countersinks. 

Case: 41.5mm by 12.48mm (14.80mm with sapphire crystal) titanium with curved synthetic sapphire crystal, three-dimensional, variable geometry-shaped bezel, hand-polished with hand-finished straight graining, profiled lugs, screwed fixing, transparent back with high domed synthetic sapphire crystal, titanium security screws, raised engraving “Balancier Incliné” and “Greubel Forsey.” 

Dial: Three-dimensional, variable geometry hour-ring, polished, with engraved and lacquered minute-circle, three-dimensional, variable geometry hour indexes, polished, with Super-Luminova, power-reserve indicator, engraved and lacquered, gold small seconds dial with polished bevel.  

Strap and clasp: Non-animal material, rubber with texture in relief, titanium folding clasp, engraved GF logo. Three-row metal bracelet in titanium, folding clasp with integrated fine adjustment, engraved GF logo on demand.

Price: CHF 212,000, or about $240,000. 

 

Specifications: Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe

The Double Balancier Convexe

Highlights: Double Balancier, hours and minutes, small seconds, 4-minutes spherical constant differential rotation, power-reserve display.

Movement: Hand-wound movement with 72-hour power reserve. Frequency of 21,600 vibrations/hour.

Bridges and main plates: Titanium with frosted, polished beveling and countersinks, grey treatment, multi-level, open-worked centre bridge, polished beveling and countersinks.

Movement side: Flat black polished steel differential bridge, gold plate with engraved limitation number, circular-grained, polished beveling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks.

Barrels: Two coaxial series-coupled fast-rotating barrels (1 turn in 3.2 hours), one of which is equipped with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension, relief-engraved text, circular-grained, black treatment, polished chamfer.

Escapements:  Inclined at a 30° angle, steel, straight graining, hand-polished beveling and countersinks, polished steel pillars, open-worked steel balance wheel bridges, hand-polished beveling and countersinks, flat black polished.

Case: 42.5mm by 14.35mm (with crystal) titanium with curved synthetic sapphire crystal, three-dimensional, variable geometry-shaped bezel, hand-polished with hand-finished straight graining, profiled lugs, screwed fixing, transparent back with curved synthetic sapphire crystal, titanium security screws, raised engraving “Double Balancier” and “Greubel Forsey.”

Dial: Three-dimensional, variable geometry hour-ring with engraved and lacquered minute-circle, three-dimensional, variable geometry hour indexes, polished, with Super-Luminova, power-reserve indicator, engraved and lacquered, differential rotation and small seconds indicators in gold. Power-reserve hands, 4-minutes and small seconds in polished steel, blued according to the version, flat black polished head.

Strap and clasp: Non-animal material, rubber with texture in relief, titanium folding clasp, engraved GF logo. Three-row metal bracelet in titanium, folding clasp with integrated fine adjustment, engraved GF logo on demand.

Price: CHF 305,000 ($345,000).