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On The Wrist

On The Wrist: Enera Samurai Katana Edition 

By Steve Huyton

In the last couple of decades, many exciting materials have filtered into the watch industry. For example, high-end brands such as Richard Mille are experimenting with aerospace-grade alloys and carbon composites. 

However, many consumers are fascinated with bronze, the copper-based alloy that gives the Bronze Age its name. On social media, there are many groups dedicated to bronze watches. Consumers revel in sharing images of watch cases in various stages of oxidization. 

Over the years I’ve reviewed many cool bronze timepieces and am delighted to add this Samurai Katana Edition from Latvia-based Enera Watch to the list.

The Enera Samurai Katana Edition

Last October I co-designed a watch with Enera called the Purple Skull. At that stage, I discussed the possibility of reviewing the Samurai Katana Edition. There is only one in existence and that is in the possession of brand owner Andrey Shishov. 

Very kindly he agreed to ship this exclusive model so I could appreciate the watch in the metal.

Certainly, for a timepiece priced at €2800, it massively exceeded my expectations. With a case measuring 45mm in diameter, it strikes a perfect balance. Compared to other materials like titanium and even steel, bronze is comparably heavy. 

I’m happy to report this piece sits comfortably on the wrist and doesn’t feel overbearing. Ultimately that’s due to the patented ergonomic case, crown and lug design (EneraSaT technology).

As I documented previously (in my ‘Purple Skull’ review) Andrey Shishov is a certified bodyguard and shooting instructor. He is also a member of the EBSA, which is an organization for security professionals. He is also very interested in Japanese military traditions and that inspired the design of the Samurai Katana Edition. 

Highlights include an engraved bezel featuring traditional Japanese elements and symbols, plus a Chochin lantern shape crown. There are also Sakura flowers on the metallic bronze dial (that symbolize the changeability of life) and Samurai sword shape hour and minute hands. Overall the composition is highly effective and the quality first rate.

Beneath the stylish façade lies a Swiss-made self-winding movement sourced from ETA. The Calibre 2824-2 comprises 25 jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. This premium mechanism is visibly showcased via the sapphire crystal exhibition case back. 

Functionally the Samurai Katana Edition features hours, minutes, seconds and date indication. The watch is water resistant to a depth of thirty meters to make it splash proof and  not for diving, and it has a power reserve of approximately forty hours. As a perfect finale, the timepiece is presented on a stingray skin strap that is widely used to make the handle of the katana sword.

Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews.

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American Brands

A Black Tie Timex

By Gary Girdvainis

Giorgio Galli’s CV includes over thirty years in the watch industry with designs and collaborations with numerous brands we all recognize. Today, as the creative director at Timex, Galli has launched a design that is so pure and elegant that it demands our attention.

The new Timex Giorgio Galli S2.

The eponymous release is called the GG(Giorgio Galli) S2 and it takes the Timex brand into new realms of movements, price-points, and unfettered design. 

The black dial with the notched metal ring is subtly elegant without the clamor of ostentation or affectation. Upon closer inspection, the attention to detail comes to light in the multi-faceted hour and minute hands.

To my eye the flat hands typical of so many affordable watches falls flat on me. When beveled, watch hands capture and reflect light, not only making the watches easier to read on a black background, but also adding a depth and panache to any watch in which they are installed.

Galli also made the right choice to eschew the date function on this watch. No-doubt the purity of this design would have been deflated by any distractions on this austere dial.

From the back you’ll note that rather than a threaded case-back Galli opted for a back held in place with six-screws. While it is more difficult to get higher levels of water resistance in this type of construction, it does look good to the eye and has the advantage of always having the case back oriented in the vertical position. Still, the GGS2 is water resistant to 50 meters, which is more than sufficient for a dress watch of this type.

The GGS2 also represents a new price point for Timex and is effectively double the cost of the nearest Timex I could find on the company’s website. Having said that, there is a lot of watch for the money embedded in this design.

The Swiss-made watch houses a Sellita SW 200 automatic winding mechanical movement, combines injection molded steel and titanium into the perfectly proportioned 38mm case, and features flat sapphire crystals front and back. Add to that a solid steel deployant buckle and a chemical resistant nitrile rubber strap and you end up with a lot of watch for $975. 

To Timex and Giorgio Galli I say bravo for creating the Black Tie(mex), a watch retailing for under $1,000 that would look right at home at any black tie affair.

Giorgio Galli wearing the watch he designed.
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The Watches

Zenith Expands Defy 21 Chroma with Two New Colorful Models

Zenith presents two encore editions of its colorful Defy 21 Chroma, a white ceramic Defy 21 watch from 2022 characterized by a rainbow of colors on its dial and on its visible high-frequency movement components. The Le Locle manufacture unveils the Defy 21 Chroma II, a new edition of the watch, which Zenith is offering in a black ceramic case and a white ceramic case.

On the black ceramic Zenith Defy 21 Chroma you’ll find hues based on the primary colors.

The newest models, which maintain the original’s 44mm case diameter, offer their own range of colorful accents. On the black ceramic edition you’ll find hues based on the primary colors.

On the white ceramic Defy 21 Chroma Zenith emphasizes brighter colors like blue and pink.

On the white ceramic version the accents are brighter, emphasizing blues and pinks. On both, colors mark the hours and the 1/100-of-a-second scale and then continue to the crown’s rubber grip ring and the strap.

The color show continues within the movement, where Zenith has applied a different metallic color to each bridge, each coordinated with the adjacent dial marker color. From the clear sapphire back you can see more hues, notably the blue-colored oscillating weight and a colorized escapement bridge.

The movement here is Zenith’s 1/100th of a second chronograph movement, the El Primero 9004 automatic (the El Primero 21), which features two independent regulators and gear trains for the timekeeping and chronograph functions, operating at frequencies of 5Hz (36,000 VpH) and 50Hz (360,000 VpH), respectively.

Zenith is offering each model as a limited edition of 500 pieces. Price: $15,600. We expect these colorful models to sell quickly given the strong response to the original edition, which Zenith reports sold out of its 200-piece production run not long after its debut during LVMH Watch Week in 2022.  

 

Specifications: Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Chroma II

(Reference: 49.9014.9004/01.R953, white ceramic model)

Movement: El Primero 9004. Frequency of 36,000 VpH – 5Hz (Watch) and 360,000 VpH – 50 Hz (Chronograph) with a power reserve of 50 hours (Watch) and 50 min (Chronograph). Certified Chronometer.  “Rainbow” PVD-coated bridges and special blue-colored oscillating weight with satined finishings.

Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. Small seconds at 9 o’clock. 1/100th of a second Chronograph: Central chronograph hand, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 60 second counter at 6 o’clock, Chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock (approx. 50 min).

Case: 44mm matte white ceramic with flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides; caseback also with transparent sapphire crystal. Water resistant to 100 meters. 

Dial: White open-worked with rhodium-plate, faceted and coated with rainbow varnish. Hands also rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with colored varnish.

Bracelet: White rubber strap with rainbow stitching. Titanium double folding clasp.

Price: $15,600

 

Specifications: Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Chroma II

(Reference: 49.9013.9004/21.R952—black ceramic model)

Movement: El Primero 9004. Frequency of 36,000 VpH – 5Hz (Watch) and 360,000 VpH – 50 Hz (Chronograph) with a power reserve of 50 hours (Watch) and 50 min (Chronograph). Certified Chronometer. “Rainbow” PVD-coated bridges and special blue-colored oscillating weight with satined finishings.

Functions: Hours and minutes in the center. Small seconds at 9 o’clock. 1/100th of a second Chronograph: Central chronograph hand, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 60-second counter at 6 o’clock, Chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock (approx. 50 min).

Case: 44mm black micro-blasted ceramic with flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides; caseback also with transparent sapphire crystal. Water resistant to 100 meters. 

Dial: Black open-worked with rhodium-plated hour markers, faceted and coated with “Rainbow” varnish. Hands are rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with colored varnish.

Bracelet: Black rubber strap with rainbow stitching. Titanium double folding clasp.

Price: $15,600

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The Watches

Grand Seiko Launches Katana-Inspired U.S. Exclusives 

The precision craftsmanship and materials required to created a Japanese Katana sword inspires three new U.S.-exclusive Grand Seiko watches.

Grand Seiko SBGA489 and SBGA491.

The debut trio offers a choice of stunning deep red, green or black dials, each framed in a 40mm diameter by 12.5mm stainless steel case. Each features a stainless steel bracelet with a three-fold clasp, a dual-curve sapphire crystal and a clear sapphire case back exposing the superb Spring Drive Automatic Caliber 9R65 (see specifications below).

The new Grand Seiko SBGA493 is a limited edition of 500 pieces.

Grand Seiko explains that the high-carbon steel known as kawagane used for the outer sharp edge of katana sword inspired the black dial of SBGA489 debut model. Similarly, dial artists echoed the strong inner core of the blade (the shingane) when creating the dark green dial of SBGA491.

For the limited-edition model SBGA493 with the striking red patterned dial Grand Seiko specifically references “the determination and fiery spirit needed to craft the blade.

The deep red color with yellow gold-tone accents is influenced by the heated blade during the forging process. The pattern emulates the radiating sparks created when the hammer strikes the blade.”

Grand Seiko is issuing the red-dialed edition (SBGA493) as a limited edition of 500 pieces available in September, each priced at $6,000. The black-dial model (SBGA489) and the green-dial model (SBGA491) are priced at $5,600, and both are available now.

Specifications: Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 44GS USA Exclusive 

Movement: Spring Drive Caliber 9R65 Driving system: Automatic Power reserve: 72 hours Accuracy: ± 1 second per day (± 15 seconds per month).

Grand Seiko Automatic Spring Drive 3-Day Caliber 9R65.

Case: 40mm by 12.5mm stainless steel case with dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, see-through screw case back, water resistance to 100 meters and superior magnetic resistance of 4,800 A/m.

Dials: Textured deep red (SBGA493), black (SBGA489) and green (SBGA491). 

Bracelet: Stainless steel with three-fold clasp and push-button release. Kimono fabric strap included with SBGA493, the limited edition model.

Prices: $6,000 (SBGA493) and $5,600 (SBGA489 and SBGA491).

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The Watches

Bulova Debuts New Frank Lloyd Wright Watch 

Bulova extends its long association with the Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation as the watchmaker debuts a new Limited Edition watch inspired by the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Imperial Hotel in Tokyo.

The newest Bulova Frank Lloyd Wright watch, inspired by the Wright-designed Imperial Hotel in Tokyo.

Bulova also launches the new watch to mark the centennial of this hotel, an architectural masterpiece designed and built by Wright from 1913-1922.

Bulova looked specifically to a geometric peacock detail found in the hotel’s mural and carpeting. The watch’s six-sided 41mm gold-tone stainless steel case references the hexagon at the center of the peacock while the colors and shapes on the printed graphic dial echo the colorful peacock design.

The watch is powered by a Miyota quartz movement, which Bulova protects with a curved mineral crystal and thirty-meters of water resistance. From the back of the watch, note the interesting glass insert specially printed with a line drawing of the Imperial Hotel façade.

Bulova individually numbers each watch and attaches the case to a blue calf leather strap with tonal stitching and a hot-stamped pattern on underside of the strap. 

Each watch will be sold inside a gift box with a story booklet and commemorative plaque. Bulova will make 1,000 Frank Lloyd Wright watches as part of the limited edition. Price: $495.

The Imperial Hotel in Tokyo.

The Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation was founded in 1940 by Wright to advance his legacy of organic architecture, is headquartered in Scottsdale, Arizona, and owns Wright’s own homes, Taliesin and Taliesin West, along with his intellectual property. 

To see additional offerings within Bulova’s Frank Lloyd Wright Collection visit the website. 

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