Bulova partners with watch collector group Complecto to create the Complecto Jet Star, a limited edition ode to a 1973 Bulova watch.
The new Bulova Complecto Jet Star.
While the original’s turtle-shaped steel case is now modernized with a more angular eight-sided profile, the new release echoes existing updates to Jet Star and offers a distinctive retro flavor with a terrific dégradé effect grey dial, vintage markers anddomed (sapphire) crystal.
Bulova pairs the vintage design with its own very contemporary Manufacture Precisionist High Precision Quartz movement, which boasts a 262kHz frequency, eight-times faster than traditional quartz calibers (32,768 Hz). The high frequency means the movement provides accuracy to within +/- 5 seconds per month.
Complecto is a new platform “dedicated to amplifying underrepresented voices in the watch industry and collector community,” and the new watch is emblematic of both Complecto’s mission as well as the Bulova’s own broad-based work work celebrating underrepresented voices (exemplified by ongoing partnerships with the Latin GRAMMYs and the Apollo Theater).
The Bulova Complecto Jet Star also offers luminous hands, cabochon hour markers with luminous dots, a date window at 3 o’clock and fifty-meters of water resistance. Bulova attaches the new watch to an interchangeable stainless steel bracelet with easy release latched spring bars.
The watch is limited to 100 pieces and comes as a set with two additional custom straps: a Bulova black leather strap with orange contrast stitching and a bespoke Delugs charcoal Alcantara strap with light grey contrast stitch and orange rubber lining, both embossed with the Complecto logo.
British watchmaker Bremont updates its Supermarine GMT dive watch collection of 40mm steel watches with a trio of models now featuring a 24-hour GMT bezel with an inner 60-minute scale, all presented with new colors and updated hand designs.
One of three updated Bremont Supermarine S302 models.
The new Supermarine S302 emphasizes its GMT mode on the bezel, and as a result we see a new model with a very cool bi-color blue and green aluminum 24-hour unidirectional rotating bezel.
A second model, a limited edition Supermarine Ocean chronometer (and boasting its chronometer rating on the dial) offers a sharp-looking grey-dial with blue SuperLuminova indexes.
A second update, the Supermarine Ocean, is a limited edition of 400.
Look for new blue SuperLumiNova coating on indexes and hands and a contrasting green hue applied to the GMT hands on the debuts. All the new S302 models are also outfitted with an automatic GMT (ETA-based) movement with 50-hour power reserve and a date display. All are also water resistant to 300 meters.
A third model in all-black livery, the S302 Jet edition, is cased in black DLC complemented by a black ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel and a sandblasted black dial.
The Bremont Supermarine Jet.
Upcoming Debuts
New CEO Davide Cerrato explains that the update to the Jet edition is “just a little bit sexier,” than existing all-black Jet editions, hinting at further debuts later this year.
“In November, we will arrive with some new additions of the 500-meter Supermarine models,” he explains. “We are focusing on adventure inspiration. This revolves around the idea that nothing is impossible. And we use explorers and adventurers to back this up,” he adds.
One of those adventurers is marine biologist Ocean Ramsey and her partner Juan Oliphant. Both will wear the new grey-dialed Supermarine Ocean (limited to 400 pieces) during their aquatic research on sharks and on turtle conservation. Bremont is donating a percentage of proceeds from all Supermarine Ocean watch sales to the ocean conservation charity Save the Turtles International.
Prices: Supermarine S302 Blue-Green: Strap: $3,750 (rubber or brown vintage leather strap) and $4,200 (bracelet),
Supermarine S302 GMT Jet: $4,250 (vintage leather or rubber),
Supermarine S302 Ocean Limited: $4,000 (rubber or brown vintage leather strap) and $4,450 (bracelet).
Ten years ago, business partners RT Custer and Tyler Wolfe created something new out of something old and brought the Vortic watch brand to life. Housing refurbished vintage American pocket watch movements into wristwatch cases crafted in the United States was a novel idea that brought renewed interest in an America’s watchmaking heritage, while simultaneously creating watches that could legitimately be called Made In the USA.
Successfully launched on Kickstarter, the Colorado Watch Company is following the founding duo’s desire to build watches in the USA – in this case with a modern movement and the ability to scale from hundreds of watches per year to thousands.
Colorado Watch Company Field Watch Prototype, pictured in four options.
“For us, Colorado Watch Company represents our desire to continue to do big, exciting things,” says RT Custer. “We know how to make hundreds of watches in America, and have been doing it with Vortic for nearly a decade. But what about thousands? What if we could create dozens of jobs, not just a handful? Colorado Watch Company represents our American Dream, and we like to dream big!”
As part of this expansion, the partners have relocated to a new facility in Fort Collins Colorado, and invested substantially in a series of machines and equipment critical to making cases and components for watches right in their own facility. Swiss lathes, five-axis CNC milling machines, automated pad printers and more have allowed the partners to take the next steps in American watchmaking.
Field Watch and GCT case machining process.
Initially, two case variations are offered; one is Tyler’s design (the 40mm Field Watch), and the other by RT (the 42mm GCT). Four variants of each are offered in total, each with two dial and two case options.
The Field Watch
At 40mm with 20mm between the lugs, the 316L stainless-steel Field Watch will comfortably fit on almost anyone’s wrist. It’s also slimmer than you might expect for an automatic watch at just 10.5mm due to the fact that the threaded case-back is recessed within the back and shaves off a couple of millimeters in height – a clever engineering solution for sure.
In the steel-case version, Colorado Watch decided to leave the subtle machining marks as a unique hallmark that adds an industrial effect while emphasizing that these cases were in fact made on-site.
The Field watch dial is machined and printed in Colorado.
Of course, these marks could be polished out and the makers could (and probably will) add different finishes in the future, but this clever bit of wabi-sabi adds an air of authenticity. DLC versions in black will not have the same effect and are polished before coating.
Field watch and GCT back view, showing FTS automatic movement.
Inside the case beats an Americhron 7020 automatic-winding movement built by FTS USA in Arizona. Shock resistant, accurate, and beating at a frequency of 28,880 bph, the 7A20 movements have a power reserve of around 40 hours and were designed by a team of watchmakers, including FTS’ own Chief Technical Officer.
FTS automatic movement, showing balance assembly.
Above the movement, the stepped dials are available in a smooth white finish or machined steel. They are also crafted in-house at Fort Collins with integrated (not welded) dial feet adding strength and security to a notorious weak spot in almost any wristwatch. BGW9 lume graces the hands and pip at 12 o’clock, while a domestically sourced sapphire crystal sits atop the case.
Even the screws and crown/stem combinations are made on site. Water resistance has been confirmed to 5atm with the non-screw-down crown, but expect a 10atm rating by the time they are delivered. Retail price is $995.
The Colorado Watch Company GCT Watch.
The GCT
Designed by RT, the GCT is slightly larger than the Field Watch at 42mm, but much more wearable than its 49mm inspiration – the original Military pocket-watch conversion that became a favorite among Vortic collectors.
In this modern homage to the original, the screw-down crown is relocated to the 12 o’clock position, while the stepped dial features Super-Luminova that recalls the colors of the aged radium look of the military original.
Like the Field watch, the GCT case is available in the raw steel version or the black DLC. Similarly, the stepped dials are available in a flat black or machined variation. The same Americhron 7A20 movement beats inside and is visible through the exhibition back in all versions.
Water resistant to 10atm when the crown is screwed down, the GCT also retains some water resistance even when the crown is in the unscrewed position thanks to a gasket system that acts as a backup for the absent-minded watch enthusiast. Retail price is $1,395.
Growing from Vortic to adding Colorado Watch Company while installing the machinery and expertise is no easy task. Neither is it easy to build an American watch manufacturer that can scale up to produce thousands of watches per year.
The GCT’s steel components.
Nevertheless, Custer and Tyler have taken another massive step in bringing watchmaking back to life in the United States and I congratulate them on their success and look forward to following their watchmaking journey wherever it may lead them in the future. Learn more at the Vortic Watches site.
Jaeger-LeCoultre invites collectors to learn about its famed Reverso collection through an exhibition starting November 3 in New York City.
The exhibit, called Reverso Stories, is touring the world and arrives in New York to mark the opening of the watchmaker’s new flagship boutique on Madison Avenue.
Located at IRON 23 (29 West 23rd Street) and open from November 3rd to November 22, the exhibit explores the Reverso story through four key themes: Story of an Icon, Style and Design, Innovation, and Craftsmanship.
The watchmaker also places the Reverso’s history amid nine decades and explores the wider creative and cultural universe surrounding it.
Also enhancing the exhibit is an immersive digital art installation by Korean artist Yiyun Kang; a space devoted to the video series ‘In the Making’, which reveals the secrets of the 180 crafts practiced in the Jaeger-LeCoultre manufacture; a room dedicated to Japanese artist Hokusai, whose works have been reproduced on Reverso timepieces, a café serving an Art Deco-inspired menu and hands-on watchmaking workshops.
A Reverso Tribute Chronograph.
In addition to historic timepieces, the exhibits will include the 2023 Reverso models launched at Watches and Wonders and two new Reverso Tribute Enamel models that will be launched during the New York season of ‘Reverso Stories’.
Source: Jaeger-LeCoultre
Reverse Stories: Opening hours and admission:
November 3 to November 22, 2023
Tuesday to Thursday 11am until 7pm, Friday and Saturday 10am to 7pm, Sunday 11am to 6pm, closed on Monday.
Guests will be able to walk in or book guided visits online.
TAG Heuer concludes its year-long celebration of Carrera with a classy ode to a much-coveted gold-cased Carrera Ref. 1158 CHN from 1972.
The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph with gold case and dial.
The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph retains the original’s 39mm 18-karat gold case and integrated lugs, adding a modern chronograph movement and pushers, all set under TAG Heuer’s new domed and ultra-curved Glassbox crystal.
Heuer Carrera Ref 1158 (left) from 1972 and the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph.
You may recall that TAG Heuer added the Glassbox crystal design to many models in the 2023 Carrera collection earlier this year.
The new design’s curves, more acute than earlier examples from the 1970s, are amplified with an equally curved flange that enhance’s the dial’s visibility while also simplifying the ability to read the 60-second/minute scale.
TAG Heuer also maintains the original’s luxe appeal with a yellow gold-plated dial and all-new contrasting black sub-dials at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions, recalling the original’s reverse panda configuration.
Inside TAG Heuer fits its excellent in-house chronograph movement TH20-00,boasting bi-directional winding and an impressive 80-hour power reserve.
TAG Heuer attaches the watch to a black perforated calfskin leather strap and yellow gold pin buckle.
Price; $21,500.
Specifications: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph (gold case)
(Ref. CBS2240.FC8319)
Movement:Chronograph caliber TH20-00, automatic with date and 80-hour power reserve.
Dial: 18-karat 3N yellow gold-plated vertical brushed dial and flange, with 60 second / minute scale, 3 counters. 18-karat 3N yellow gold-plated facetted, polished hour and minute hands with white SuperLumiNova. Black lacquered central hand, Black TAG HEUER printed logo, 6 o’clock date.
Case:39mm by 13.9mm 18-karat 3N solid yellow gold fine-brushed, polished case with Glassbox domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment, solid yellow gold standard crown at 3 o’clock, fine brushed, polished solid yellow gold round push button at 2 o’clock. Fine brushed, polished solid yellow gold round push button at 4 o’clock and yellow gold screw-down sapphire caseback. Water resistance: 100 meters.
Bracelet: Perforated black calfskin leather strap, fine brushed, polished yellow gold pin buckle, TAG Heuer shield.
A second model, a limited edition Supermarine Ocean chronometer (and boasting its chronometer rating on the dial) offers a sharp-looking grey-dial with blue SuperLuminova indexes.
Even the screws and crown/stem combinations are made on site. Water resistance has been confirmed to 5atm with the non-screw-down crown, but expect a 10atm rating by the time they are delivered. Retail price is $995.
Water resistant to 10atm when the crown is screwed down, the GCT also retains some water resistance even when the crown is in the unscrewed position thanks to a gasket system that acts as a backup for the absent-minded watch enthusiast. Retail price is $1,395.
The new design’s curves, more acute than earlier examples from the 1970s, are amplified with an equally curved flange that enhance’s the dial’s visibility while also simplifying the ability to read the 60-second/minute scale.
