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The Watches

A Home for Your Watches 

Founded in 1898, Rapport London has a long history of hand-crafting superb watch winders as well as elegant watch cases and rolls for home and travel. This third-generation family-owned business specializes in fine leather, warm full grain woods, high-gloss lacquer finishes and beveled glass designs. All of which are calling cards that highlight the small-batch manufacturing of Rapport’s design.

 

The Rapport Romer (featured here) has a tactile full-grain leather exterior capped by solid metal corner bolsters and studded trim creating a retro-robust look and feel. Able to house and wind up to six wristwatches at a time, the Romer’s individually programmable and fully adjustable winding capsules allow for a custom fit for large and small watches.

The ability to set customized winding programs, including direction and number of rotations, allow the owner to select a routine to best suit a particular movement’s needs. A fingerprint touchpad on the side releases the lock and opens the door to access the watches and the touchscreen control panel inside the velveteen-lined case.

Worth noting is that Rapport London stands behind their winders with not only warranty coverage, but also a 30-day return policy.

Like the designs, the fit and the finish, Rapport London’s winders are top-notch and will create a fine home for your fine timepieces. 

Price: $5,250.

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Interviews

Rolex Lands On The “Moon”

Country music fans already know Niko Moon is a chart-topping country singer.

His song “Good Time” went #1 on country radio, while his other hits continue to climb the charts – with brand new music on the way as he continues to tour. In the past Moon has written no fewer than eight #1 songs – and over 40 major record label cuts for artists such as Morgan Wallen, Avicii, Dierks Bentley, Pitbull, Zac Brown Band, Rascal Flatts and more. He has also been a SESAC country songwriter of the year.

In addition to a musical chart-topping superstar, Moon is also an avid watch fan. He wears his Rolex Daytona “Panda” on a daily basis, and has a focused collection that includes Day-Date, GMT Sprite, and a Submariner from the crowned brand. When a Rolex is not on his wrist you might see Niko sporting an IWC Big Pilot or Portugieser. Clearly a fan of the classics, Moon’s short list of favorite brands includes Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron Constantin and IWC.

We had a chance to catch up with Niko to ask him a few questions about his own watch collecting:

iW: When did you first develop an interest in watches?
NM: I’ve always been fascinated with time. How on one hand it’s an illusion and yet it’s a very real part of life. Over time I tend to view a watch as a steadfast companion that’s always there to remind me of the preciousness of my time on earth. It’s a constant reminder to seize every moment, every second.

iW: I’ve come to understand that you really appreciate watches by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, A. Lange & Sohne, Vacheron & IWC. What draws you to a particular watch? Is it brand recognition, function, style, size? Tell us a little bit more about what grabs your attention and how you choose the next watch to add to your collection.

NM: For me, first and foremost I’m drawn to craftsmanship. A perfect example of this is A Lange & Sohne and their time intensive double assembly. Each watch is hand crafted by masters of the watchmaking discipline. There are few things in this world that are made with such care and precision, it’s part of the allure. I prefer watches that are easily integrated into many different styles, whether relaxed or hitting the stage. Steel and yellow gold are my go-to metals as they work well with everything I wear. The longer I am a collector the more I have focused on collectible watches that will prove a wise investment over the long term.

iW: Do you ever get tired of a particular watch and re-sell, or are you keeping every watch you buy?

NM: I have never sold a watch. For me, there is an emotional connection and story to each watch. I wait to get a timepiece until I have a “big moment” I can commemorate.

iW: Your short list of watches shows a penchant for the classics, have you looked at some of the more exotic “boutique” brands that don’t necessarily carry the same name recognition?
NM: My favorite more boutique brands are Lange and F.P. Journe. Their attention to detail is something that is just on a whole other level.

iW: What’s the most complicated watch you own?

NM: I do not currently own a high complication watch although I dream of them nightly. My Rolex day date is my most complicated. My dream complication is the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph. The movement of that watch is my absolute favorite, I could look at that movement for hours.

iW: Are there certain colorways or materials that you prefer in a timepiece?

NM: For me, I enjoy all metals except for rose gold. Color wise, black and white are my go-tos. I also love blue and green, (got a left-handed GMT sprite on the way!)

iW: How do you share/feed your enthusiasm for fine timepieces? Do you attend events, head to a favorite boutique, or participate in on-line collector’s groups?
NM: I’m always popping into watch stores while I’m on tour, looking for my next addition. I’m also online at Hodinkee reading articles, looking on Chrono24 or watching the plethora of watch videos on YouTube.

iW: What are your own personal “grail” watches that you would buy the moment they became available?

NM: The Le Mans Daytona is my absolute favorite Daytona. Again, a Lange Datograph in platinum and the Patek Philippe Aquanaut with the black rubber strap. That particular Patek is so under the radar in its casualness but completely stunning.

iW: You have a very high-end collection. Do you also have any “beater” or weekend warrior type watches that get the call to the wrist for more active times or events?

NM: Honestly I wear all of my watches consistently. For me, what’s the point of having them if I can’t enjoy them by wearing them.

iW: How frequently do you like to change-up your wristwear? Do you typically wear one watch for days or weeks at a time, or do you prefer to mix it up based on apparel and situation?

NM: I do go through phases. If I just bought a new watch, I’ll probably wear that one for the next 1-2 months, then it becomes part of the rotation.

iW: Finally, what’s your favorite watch to wear while on the road touring / performing right now?

NM: Right now my Rolex Daytona panda. I just got it and am absolutely in love. I wear it in my sweats and on stage and it looks great in both environments. Even on a smaller wrist like mine it fits perfectly.

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American Brands

Benrus Revisits Ultra-Deep 

Benrus revives one of its best-selling dive watches with the new Benrus Ultra-Deep, a recreation of one of the watchmaker’s historic models from the 1960s.

The new Benrus Ultra-Deep.

Originally created in response to the rise of scuba diving for sport, the Benrus Ultra-Deep retains the 36.5mm case size of the original model’s ‘compressor’ case. Such cases, built for the U.S.-based Benrus by Swiss-based Ervin Piquerez, would become more water resistant as the diver went deeper because the caseback would pressurize. Modern screw-down cases fulfill the same role in new watches.

The revived Benrus Ultra-Deep also retains the dual-crown design found on the original model.  

One crown rotates an inner timing bezel instead of an external bezel, which makes it less likely the bezel will be shifted by mistake, leading to timing errors under water.

Also note the same cathedral-style hour and minute hands and magnified date window as the original.

The new models of course benefit from numerous technical updates, including a screw-down winding crown, C3 SuperLumiNova hands and dial markers. Inside, Benrus fits a reliable Soprod P024 automatic movement. The watch arrives on a high-end Jubilee-style stainless steel bracelet and also includes a blue nylon NATO dive strap.

Price: $1,095. 

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The Watches

Breitling Adds Tourbillon to Top Time 

Breitling adds a tourbillon to three models in its Top Time Classic Cars Collection, the series of luxurious sporty chronographs that celebrate classic automobiles. The new models honor the legacies of the Ford Mustang, Chevrolet Corvette and Shelby Cobra, three famed cars Breitling has linked to existing watches in the collection.

The new Breitling B21 Top Time Ford Mustang.

The watchmaker combines the new tourbillon addition with a variety of case metals and dial treatments (including one with a walnut burl dial) meant to add some contemporary technology to the essentially retro-themed Top Time collection.

The new Breitling Top Time B21 Shelby Cobra

Breitling fits each watch with Caliber B21, the same movement Breitling developed with the movement maker Manufacture La Joux-Perret and the same caliber seen first inside last year’s Breitling Premier Tourbillon.

The new Breitling Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette.

The Caliber B21 has a column-wheel-controlled design with a horizontal clutch and is a COSC-certified chronometer with a skeletonized oscillating weight. The wearer can enjoy a view of the column wheel on each watch through the caseback.

Breitling first introduced the Top Time Collection in the 1960s and revived it in 2021 as a ‘modern retro’ series built with mushroom-style chronograph pushers and an up/down dial design. 

For the new models, Breitling places the tourbillon carriage at 12 o’clock with the chronograph minute counter at the 6 o’clock position, in part to recall the look of vintage automotive dashboard gauges. You’ll also find tachometer scale just inside the bezel of all three new models.

The Watches

One debut model, the Top Time B21 Ford Mustang, boasts a 43-mm bronze case with a titanium back and a green dial, colored to match the first-generation Ford Mustang (1964 to 1974.)

Breitling Top Time B21 Shelby Cobra

A second debut, the Top Time B21 Shelby Cobra, has a 44-mm black ceramic case with a titanium back, crown, pushers, and buckle. Its blue dial matches the color theme of 1962 model, famously developed by Le Mans winner Carroll Shelby.

Breitling Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette.

The third debut, the Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette, pairs its 44-mm black ceramic case with a titanium back, crown, pushers, and buckle. Its unusual walnut burl dial and perforated leather racing strap are an homage to the steering wheel and dashboard inlays of the legendary 1960s “Sting Ray” Chevy Corvette.

Price: $47,000.

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The Watches

Bell & Ross Blues its Cyber Skull 

Bell & Ross expands its BR 01 Cyber Skull collection with the new BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire Ice Blue, a 45mm clear sapphire watch with an automaton skull whose jaw moves when the watch’s crown is turned while winding the movement.

The new Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire Ice Blue.

The high-tech composite sapphire case allows a completely clear view of the manual-wind caliber and its components, whether viewed from the front or back of the watch. The highlight ice blue skull, made of galvanized brass and blue PVD (on the dial side), serves as a backdrop and mainplate for the skeletonized caliber BR-CAL.209, with its 48-hour power reserve and 28,800 vph frequency.

Bruno Belamich, creative director and co-founder of Bell & Ross, explains that the newest skull hue “combines perfectly with the transparency of the sapphire of the case, like a faceted iceberg.”

The watchmaker notes that the case’s sapphire material is almost as hard and scratch-resistant as diamond. To produce the case, technicians use a hydrogen flame to heat an alumina powder to a temperature exceeding 2,000°C., a delicate and painstaking process

Bell & Ross equips the watch with a transparent soft silicone strap held to the wrist with a polished and satin-finished steel pin buckle. The new BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire Ice Blue is a limited edition of 25 pieces, each priced at $115,000. 

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