Hublot unveils the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium, the watchmaker’s tenth Manufacture Piece (MP) and a technical standout among a wide-ranging set of debuts for the Swiss watchmaker during LVMH Watch Week.
The new Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium.
Additional debuts include a colorful green model within Hublot’s Unico Saxem series, new yellow and light blue Orlinsky tourbillon models, two new Big Bang Integrated time-only ceramic models and a host of Spirit of Big Bang gem-set watches.
No Hands
Continuing the avant-garde focus of the MP series, the MP-10 shows the time without hands, instead indicating hours and minutes via an aluminum roller display built directly within a linear movement.
Seconds are shown directly on the tourbillon case on the lower section of the dial. All three of these primary indicators utilize the same white lacquer typography and red triangular marker.
A fourth indicator displays the state of the watch’s 48-hour power reserve. This is shown with red and green disc.
Hublot powers the automatic movement and its 35-degree-inclined tourbillon via two linear weights, one of either side of the movement.
Hublot explains that its watchmakers have developed a patent-pending system of shock absorbers for these weights in order to wind the movement bidirectionally.
In addition to its automatic system, the MP-10 can be wound manually by rotating the crown at 12 o’clock. The time is set using a second crown on the case-back.
Hublot notes that while the two-piece titanium case (54.1 mm by 41.5mm by 22.4mm)is relatively straight-forward, the sapphire crystal that sits on top is the watchmaker’s most complex yet as it combines inclined planes on three axes. The same applies to the integrated rubber strap, which Hublot calls “the most refined ever designed by the Manufacture.”
Price: $264,000. Hublot is offering the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium as a limited edition of fifty watches.
Zenith unveilsboutique editions of its existing Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback watches, both of which feature the brilliant blue dials we’ve seen on previous Zenith boutique-only launches.
The new Zenith Pilot Automatic, Boutique Edition
These latest models give a new look to two of Zenith’s top 2023 debuts. Each highlights the watchmaker’s signature sky blue hue as rendered on textured, grooved dials meant to recall the corrugated metal sheets of vintage aircraft. Both watches also sport the word Pilot on the dial, which Zenith notes is an especially significant detail. That’s because only Zenith holdstherightstomarkitsdialswiththeterm.
Zenith makes one of the two new watches, thePilot Automatic Boutique Edition, witha 40mm stainless steel case that features a distinctive flat-top round bezel, which complements the watch’s satin-brushed, rounded case.
Above the date window you’ll see a luminescent hour marker in the form of a flat white line. This detail is meant to recall the artificial horizon instrument in plane’s cockpit.
The new 42.5mm Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback, Boutique Edition.
As the second of the new boutique-only watches, the new 42.5mm Pilot Big Date Flyback BoutiqueEdition offers a monotone sky-blue big date wheels to match the dial. More complicated with its flyback function, the watch’s namesake display that, combined with its large crown, was originally made for pilots who wore thick sheepskin gloves.
The flybackfunction allows the chronograph to be reset to zero and restarted by a single push of abutton, simplifying the pilot’s operations and offering the possibility to record consecutive timeswithouthavingtostopandrestart.
From the back of the Pilot Big Date Flyback the wearer can eye an El Primero 3652 chronograph caliber with its “artificial horizon” rotor visible. (See below for all technical specifications).
Zenith fits the watch onabluerubberstrap and also provides abrowncalfskin strap. All the straps come with an integrated quick-release mechanism for easyswappingwithouttools.
Prices: $7,500 (Pilot Automatic) and $11,500 (Pilot Big Date Flyback), both available in Zenith physical and online boutiques.
Keypoints:AutomaticElPrimerocolumn-wheelchronographwithflybackfunction.PatentedBig Date at 6 o’clock. Instantaneous Big Date jump in 0.007 sec (0.02 for discs jump &stabilization).FullInterchangeablestrapsystem.BoutiquesEdition.
The new Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Designed by Peter Speake.
The new 42mm steel-cased perpetual calendar retains the skeletonized design of the original model. The openwork design nicely displays Frederique Constant’s own automaticFC-775caliber, here showing the hour and minutes without a seconds hand.
The idea is to allow the eye to more clearly focus on the perpetual calendar displays, which include the day and date, the month (at 12 o’clock), moonphase (at 6 o’clock) and, finally, the leap year.
Frederique Constant explains that “since this detail is not needed for everyday use, it has been moved over to the month display at 12 o’clock. A discreet red dot appears for the month in question when the year has 366 days; at all other times, the window remains white.”
Frederique Constant finishes its in-house movement with a circular satin finish and blued screws. The watch’s transparent caseback displays an openwork, blue-colored oscillating weight. Also visible are the words ‘Limited Edition 135 pieces’ which are engraved on each watch. Each watch arrives on a grey nylon strap with matching overstitching.
Price: $11,995.
Specifications: Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Designed by Peter Speake
Movement:FC-775 in-house caliber, automatic, perpetual calendar, Perlage decoration on movement,anthracite bridge, blue rotor, satin finishing on all springs, circular finishing on perpetual calendar wheels, 38-hour power reserve, 28,800 alt/h.
Case:Polished stainless steel 3-part case, diameter of 42mm, height of 12,05 mm
Anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal,see-through case back, water-resistant to 3 ATM/30m/100ft.
Dial:Grey color dial with matte finishing, skeleton, luminescent printed indexes,
White and polished hands with luminous treatment,moonphase with luminous treatment.
Strap:Grey nylon strap with tone-on-tone stitching, folding buckle.
AvailabilityMarch 2024 at the Citizen Flagship Store New York and at select Frederique Constant retailers.
H. Moser fits a stunning dial made from Wyoming-sourced jade into its Streamliner tourbillon to create the new Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Wyoming Jade, a limited edition (of 100) red gold watch.
The new H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Wyoming Jade.
The logo-free jade dial allows the Streamliner’s one-minute flying tourbillon to stand out nicely (at 6 o’clock), highlighting this independent Swiss watchmaker’s considerable technical and artisanal talent.
Collectors may be familiar with the Streamliner’s retro-styled cushion case and the unusual double-hairspring HMC 804 automatic caliber that powers the watch, but until now no one has seen how a rare olive-toned slice of jade can enhance the Streamliner’s pleasing aesthetic.
H. Moser explains that its dial-makers sourced the dial’s raw material from Wyoming. Chosen for its naturally occurring marks and unique shades, the jade used on the dial is untreated out of “respect for its original structure.”
With the selected material, H. Moser explains that lapidary artisans cut the stone using CNC technology in a liquid environment to create a slice 1.0 to 1.2 mm thick. “These slices are then laid on jigs, wetted and inspected under a light to determine the optimal positioning of the plates for cutting the dials.” After hand polishing, dial makers varnish and then glue the dials onto a brass base.
H. Moser frames the dial of the new watch with a 40mm by 12.1mm red gold case, held with an equally luxurious red gold integrated bracelet. (See below for full technical specifications).
Price: $119,000.
Specifications: H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Wyoming Jade
Reference 6804-0406, red gold model, natural Wyoming jade dial, integrated bracelet in red gold, limited edition of 100 pieces
Case:
5N red gold topped by a slightly domed sapphire crystal
Diameter: 40.0 mm
Height without sapphire crystal: 10.3 mm
Height with sapphire crystal: 12.1 mm
Screw-in crown adorned with an engraved “M”
See-through sapphire crystal case-back
Water-resistant to 12 ATM
Dial:
Wyoming jade, 100% natural
Hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts
5N red gold faceted indices
Movement:
HMC 804 automatic Manufacture calibre
Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes
Height: 5.5 mm
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
Oscillating weight in 18-carat red gold with engraved H. Moser & Cie. logo
Power reserve: minimum of 3 days
One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with skeletonized bridges
Original double hairspring
Strap/bracelet:
Integrated bracelet in 5N red gold
Folding clasp with three blades in 5N red gold, engraved with the Moser logo
Maurice Lacroix adds a distinctive metallic sheen to its best-selling Aikon collection with two new models, each dressed with a glossy PVD hue.
The new Aikon PVD entries add a 39mm dark blue model and a 42mm gunmetal grey edition to the wide-ranging collection. Maurice Lacroix will make each new model as a limited edition series of 888 watches.
One of two new Maurice Lacroix Aikon PVD models.
Since the Swiss watchmaker debuted Aikon in 2016 we’ve seen it expand to include quartz-powered and automatic models, with a many boasting eye-catching skeletonized designs.
Each of the new watches displays the time from an impressive fumé dial finished using a Clous de Paris motif. As a fumé design, the color (which matches the case) is lighter at the center and darker toward the edges.
From the back of the watch wearers can see the automatic Sellita-based ML115 movement, which Maurice Lacroix finishes with perlage and colimaçon.
As with all Aikon watches, these debuts are equipped with the Maurice Lacroix Easy Strap Exchange system, which means the wearer can quickly change the included rubber strap as desired without the need for tools.
As with all Aikon watches, 