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Patek Philippe Adds Minute Repeater to Gem-Set Aquanaut

Patek Philippe places a minute repeater within its contemporary Aquanaut Luce collection, launching it within two rose-gold-cased, highly gem-set models. One version on a strap is resplendent in a rainbow of multicolored baguette-cut sapphires while a second model offers an invisible-set baguette-cut-diamond dial and a gem-rich rose gold bracelet.

The new multi-colored Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie (Reference 5260/355R-001).
The new Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Reference 5260/1455R-001.

While we’ve seen several complications within the Aquanaut since its debut in 1997, including the very recent Annual Calendar (Reference 5261), these debuts, each measuring 38.8mm by 42.5mm, mark the first time the watchmaker has added a minute repeater to the collection.

Patek Philippe has a history of debuting new complicated watches within its collections aimed at feminine watch fans. In 2009 the watchmaker debuted its caliber CH 29-535 PS manually wound chronograph movement in a Ladies First Chronograph model.

And for six years starting in 2011 the Reference 7000 Ladies First Minute Repeater (with the superb caliber R 27 PS) graced the watchmaker’s catalog. Even as far back as 1916, Patek Philippe debuted its first-ever chiming watch as a ladies’ five-minute repeater in a platinum case with a chain bracelet.

 

The new multi-colored Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie (Reference 5260/355R-001) shows off the watchmaker’s artisanal prowess set with fifty-two multicolored baguette-cut sapphires, 112 baguette-cut diamonds and 160 brilliant-cut diamonds.

 

Those baguette gemstones are invisibly set, which means each stone is cut with lateral grooves embedded in tiny gold rails that will be invisible once the stone is set.

 

The bracelet model, Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Reference 5260/1455R-001, is set with 130 baguette-cut diamonds on the dial and the outer row of the bezel and 779 multicolored baguette-cut sapphires forming a rainbow on the inner row of the bezel, the flanks of the case, the minute repeater slide-piece and the rose-gold bracelet.

 

Aware that such intense high-carat settings can distract some wearers who deign to check the time, Patek Philippe has been careful to ensure a highly legible dial on each watch. On the bracelet model specifically, twelve multicolored baguette-cut sapphires distinctly mark the hours while the hour hand is set with three baguette rubies and the minute hand is easy to see thanks to five blue sapphires.

Inside both watches, the automatic Caliber R 27 movement chimes on demand on two classic gongs (the hour, quarters and minutes elapsed since the last quarter) when the side-piece is activated. The movement’s off-center 22-karat gold guilloche mini-rotor is visible through a sapphire crystal case back.

For each model, price is on request. 

New Nautilus Models

In addition to debuting the minute repeater in two Aquanaut Luce models, Patek Philippe also debuts three new Nautilus Haute Joaillerie models.

One is cased in white gold set with 1,500 brilliant-cut diamonds with 876 brilliant-cut blue sapphires (6.58 ct, Reference 7118/1451G-001),one offers rubies (Reference 7118/1452G-001) and the third is set with emeralds (Reference 7118/1453G-001) using the “snow setting” technique.

 

With each, the bracelet is equally eye-catching. Diamonds on the outer links of each model contrasts with colored gems on the inner links to better highlight the original construction of the bracelet. Prices on request.

 

And finally, Patek Philippe completes its late-2023 gem-set extravaganza with two new Ladies’ Nautilus models in rose gold with a purple decor.

The new Ladies’ Nautilus Reference 7010R-013.

One, the Ladies’ Nautilus Reference 7010R-013 ($39,624), offers a purple lacquered dial and a matching strap in a composite material, while the second, the Ladies’ Nautilus Reference 7010/1R-013 ($56,183), offers the purple lacquered dial with a rose gold bracelet.

 

 

 

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Nomos Launches Gold Tangente

For the first time, Nomos dresses its automatic Tangente in rose gold, launching the Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik as a limited-edition model in honor of the 175th anniversary of watchmaking in Glashütte.

The new Nomos Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik 175 Years of Watchmaking.

As the latest addition in the Nomos 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte series, the new watch is a luxurious ode to both the German city’s long watchmaking history and to the Tangente itself, which has been a bestseller (in its usual 35mm steel case) for the watchmaker for thirty years.

The Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik has a white silver-plated dial with an outer ring, sub-seconds dial, and minute markers in gold.

Limited to 175 pieces worldwide, the new watch adds a sub-seconds dial and minute markers in rose gold to the original’s galvanically white silver-plated dial.

At 6.9mm high, the Tangente rose gold neomatik from Nomos Glashütte is just a bit taller than Tangente with manual winding.

And while the first Tangente series reveled in its manual-wind minimalism, the new model is powered  by the Nomos DUW 3001, a thin automatic movement adjusted to chronometer standards.

The in-house neomatik movement DUW 3001 with the Nomos Swing System is thin and regulated to chronometer standards for the special edition.

Nomos attaches the celebratory model to an equally luxurious precious strap and clasp. The Berlin-designed clasp, crafted from 18-karat gold and hand-polished, holds a strap from Horween made of thick shell Cordovan.

Price: $11,100.

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Corum Adds Ceramic Cases to Admiral 42 

Corum adds five ceramic-cased models to its nautically themed Admiral Automatic collection. 

The Admiral, with its twelve-sided case and pennant-markers, is one of Corum’s top-sellers and is usually fashioned from steel, titanium or precious metal. The new ceramic case option adds a contemporary option within the watchmaker’s Admiral offerings.

One of the new ceramic-cased Admiral 42mm offerings, here with a rose gold bezel.

Corum adds the ceramic option specifically to its 42mm Admiral series, the mid-sized watches set between Corum’s 38mm and 45mm Admiral offerings. Three white-cased models and two black-cased newcomers (one of which is a limited edition) mark the debut.

Two of the white ceramic models also sport a rose gold bezel, as does one black edition. 

The two variations arrive with a matching rubber strap and gold-colored accents while two additional versions in each color sport artistic dials with pop-art markers and accents.

Of these two art-dialed options, the black ceramic model is a limited edition (of 50 pieces, pictured below) and features a luminous ‘Corum’ logo in graffiti-style across its dark dial.

The two white-ceramic pop-art version feature indexes and hands adorned with multicolored paint. One of these two white ceramic options also comes with a rose-gold bezel.

All the new Admiral watches are water resistant to fifty meters and are powered by CO 395, an ETA-based automatic movement. 

Prices: CHF 14,800 (with ceramic bezel), CHF 18,000 (gold bezel) and CHF 18,500 (white ceramic artistic dial with gold bezel).

 

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Parmigiani Fleurier Expands Unisex Tonda PF Series  

Parmigiani Fleurier adds two new models to its award-winning Tonda PF Automatic 36mm collection, expanding the series with a two-tone gold and steel bracelet model as well as a rose gold version on an alligator strap.

One of two additions to the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm collection.

Both debuts extend the unisex collection, which in 2022 was awarded the Women’s Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. 

Echoing the initial 40mm Tonda PF Micro-Rotor series, the 36mm models also feature stunning Grain d’Orge hand-guilloché dials but omit a date display and, with a traditional rotor powering the movement, are not quite as thin as the earlier 40mm debuts.

The 36mm two-tone debut, a first steel and gold mix within the Tonda PF collection,  features a rose gold bezel, crown and rose gold links within the steel bracelet.

The gold essentially brings extra attention to characteristics that Parmigiani Fleurier built into the contemporary Tonda PF design, namely the finely knurled bezel and the tapered bracelet.

Parmigiani Fleurier further emphasizes these architectural elements with a contrasting finish. Unlike the polished stainless steel links at the ends of the bracelet, the gold links are satin-finished. And note that as the line of gold and steel links nears the clasp, each link is slightly shorter than the previous link.

The gold-cased Tonda PF Automatic 36mm debut is more luxurious and dressier with its all-precious case, ruby-colored alligator strap and ruby red Grain d’Orge hand-guilloché dial decoration.

Both debuts feature a superb in-house PF770 automatic movement that boasts a sixty-hour power reserve and a skeletonized rotor fully visible from the watch’s clear sapphire back.

Prices: $26,200 (steel and rose gold case and bracelet), $40,400 (rose gold on an alligator strap).  

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TAG Heuer Launches Carrera Chronosprint with Porsche

TAG Heuer teams with Porsche to launch the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, the latest Carrera model that merges design elements from both brands.

The seventh joint launch since TAG Heuer and Porsche officially partnered in 2021, the new 42mm watch is a vision in silver and red, with red details highlighting references to the 1970s Porsche 911 dashboard design.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche. A rose-gold-cased version is also available.

Beyond the dial accents, TAG Heuer has also built into the new watch a special version of its new TH20 automatic movement, which debuted this past March during Watches and Wonders.

The new reference here, the TH20-08 movement, features a chronograph seconds hand meant to echo Porsche 911’s ability to reach the 100 km/h in just 9.1 seconds.

Here, the central hand accelerates faster than usual at the start of the chronograph activation thanks to a clever use of a two snail-shaped wheels, which also create a decelerating motion for the central hand after sixty seconds. TAG Heuer makes the wheels using the so-called LiGA lithographic etching process.

On the dial, TAG Heuer continues to reference the Porsche 911.

At 6 o’clock for example you’ll find a subdial that directly recalls the area around 50 km/h that was often highlighted to indicate the recommended speed in urban areas.

The red portion of the 9 o’clock subdial is meant to be a reminder of the ‘critical engine limit.’ TAG Heuer opts to place the red line at 6.8 hours, a nice reference to that 6,800 RPM limit. Red lines on the flange recall the Porsche 911’s ability to reach the 100 km/h in just 9.1 seconds, a clear reference to the very first Porsche 911.

Look for a steel and a gold version of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, each featuring the same retro-inspired double glassbox sapphire crystal seen on Carrera debuts earlier this year.

These domed and curved crystals echo similarly domed hesalite crystal designs from the 1970s, but here have been revamped to add a curve that flows over the tachymeter scale and blends into the case.

From the clear caseback TAG Heuer designs a rotor to replicate the famed Porsche three-spoke steering wheel.

TAG Heuer will launch the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche watches with a calfskin leather strap, in brown for the gold edition and in black for the steel edition, each with an embossed number “911” on the strap.

Prices: $9,200 (steel) and $23,550 (rose gold).

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