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The Watches

An Ode to Mr. Roboto

By Steve Huyton

The Mr. Roboto from Azimuth is one of my favorite watches. Essentially this watch is the reason I fell in love with the brand in the first place.

Azimuth’s Mr. Roboto R1 Original.

Over the past twenty years, Azimuth has really established itself as a big player on the horological landscape. In particular the Azimuth avant-garde SP-1 collections have gained enormous critical acclaim. For this reason the brand has become synonymous for exceptional design and Swiss quality normally associated with more expensive watchmakers.

In fact it’s fair to say their progressive approach to watchmaking has led the pathway for many micro brands. 

Over the last few years, I’ve frequently communicated with Chris Long and got to learn what makes him tick. As a brand owner, you can essentially invent a title and Chris playfully describes himself as the Chief Product Visionary. This perpetuates his approach to watchmaking, which is mainly inspired by childhood fantasies.

The Mr. Roboto Artist Series with rat and gears.

Ultimately this was the catalyst for iconic creations like Mr. Roboto that pay homage to the Golden Robot of the 1950s. The Mark I variant was originally released in 2008 and measures 42.6mm x 49.5mm. For the price, there was nothing comparable at the time and it instantly became collectable with watch enthusiasts.

What originally impressed me about the original Mr. Roboto was the meticulous attention to detail. This watch has a sophisticated geometry and several bespoke sapphire crystal windows. The eyes display the hours (left), and GMT/second-time zone (right), with his red triangular nose featuring seconds and minutes in a retrograde format.

Certainly, in 2008 it was an ambitious project for a small independent brand. However, for Chris Long, this became a perfect springboard. 

In 2016 Azimuth took on another partner, Giuseppe Picchi, who now runs the technical side of the operation from Neuchatel in Switzerland. This allowed the brand to experiment with more sophisticated designs and build on a solid reputation.

In 2017 Azimuth unveiled the Mr. Roboto R2, which is a larger more muscular version of the original. The primary objective was to give the watch an ‘Haute Horlogerie’ aesthetic similar to MB&F and Urwerk.

Mr. Roboto R2

In my opinion, they were very successful and this is an exceptionally fine watch. However, interestingly Long revisited the original version to create several limited editions constructed from bronze. 

Notable highlights include the Mr. Roboto Bronzo Artist Series, a collection of unique 1/1 pieces. These feature hand-engraved bezels inspired by steampunk, bitcoin and motorcycle themes.

Mr. Roboto Bronzo.

For those that prefer a natural finish there was also a 100-piece limited edition Mr Roboto Bronzo that’s long sold out. 

Recently Chris Long informed me of a very special 43mm x 50mm sapphire crystal model, which will be limited to twenty pieces worldwide (to commemorate Azimuth’s 20th anniversary). Certainly, it’s the most exclusive model they’ve created to date and visually the boldest.

Mr. Roboto Sapphire.

Not surprisingly Azimuth will be entering this masterpiece for a prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève award.

Personally, I feel it’s a perfect recipient for this type of accolade and maybe a natural conclusion to Mr. Roboto’s story.

Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews

 

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The Watches

Nomos Adds Quirky Quartet to Tetra

“Die Unerreichbare” (The Unattainable) is the name of this Tetra with a silver dial and a small seconds dial in pink.

Nomos adds four new models to its square-cased Tetra collection, each with a dial that includes a shade of pink, and each with its own quirky name.

One of the four new Nomos Tetra watches. Its name, “Die Wildentschlossene,” means The Fiercely Determined.

The English names for the four models are: The Unattainable (silver dial with pink small seconds), The Fiercely Determined, (pink dial, silver small seconds), The Mad One (light purple with a milled small seconds) and The Capricious (a ‘nude’ tone with small seconds dial in silver).

This is Die Fuchsteufelswilde (The Mad One). And for the first time, the Tetra now comes on a strap made of vegan velour.

Each model in the new Tetra quartet measures 29.5 in diameter and each one arrives a vegan velvet grey velour strap that Nomos is utilizing for the first time here.

Die Kapriziöse (The Capricious) is the name of this new Tetra.

All four watches come with either a clear sapphire crystal back or a solid steel caseback (suitable for engraving). 

The same manual-wind Nomos Alpha caliber power each watch, no matter which ‘quirk’ the buyer chooses. 

Well established within Tetra, this caliber offers a level of technical features well above what you would likely find in any other manual-wind movement watch at this price range.

These features include a stop-seconds mechanism, a Glashütte three-quarter plate, a regulation system adjusted in six positions, tempered blue screws, rhodium-plated surfaces with Glashütte ribbing, a perlage-finished ratchet wheel and a crown wheel nicely finished with a Glashütte sunburst pattern.  

Prices: $2,080 (steel caseback) and $2,320 (clear caseback).  

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Featured News

Patek Philippe to Exhibit Rare Handcrafts in Geneva 

Starting April 1, Patek Philippe will display its new Rare Handcrafts 2023 collection during a public exhibition at the Patek Philippe historic headquarters on 41 Rue du Rhône in Geneva.

On display at the exhibition is this Leopard Pocket watch with wood marquetry, hand engraving and champlevé enamel.

On display until April 15, the collection will show nearly seventy one-of-a-kind or limited-edition watches and clocks made by Patek Philippe artisans showing their wide-ranging skills and creativity. 

The annual exhibit this year will display timepieces that demonstrate skill in Grand Feu cloisonné enameling, miniature painting on enamel, grisaille or flinqué or paillonné or champlevé enameling, manual engraving, micro-marquetry, manual guilloching and gemsetting. 

Patek Philippe’s Rare Handcrafts 2023 collection includes sixty-seven creations in total consisting of twenty-two dome clocks and miniature dome clocks, three table clocks, twelve pocket watches and thirty wristwatches. This exhibition is the public’s only opportunity to see unique pieces and limited editions before they are delivered to private collections.

The exhibits are divided into two main areas: natural beauty and human adventure.

To make the cat, the marquetry maker cut out and assembled 363 tiny veneer parts and 50 inlays, together spanning 21 species of wood of different colors, textures and veining.

Within the nature area, you’ll see, for example, the Leopard pocket watch (reference 995/137J-001) which combines wood marquetry, manual engraving and champlevé enamel.

The dial on The Leopard, in black-tinted tulipwood, presents applied Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands, all in yellow gold. A faceted yellow sapphire decorates the crown.

In the second area Patek Philippe gathers timepieces that pay tribute to arts, traditions and culture, with a particular set of timepieces dedicated to motor racing.

The 1948 Nations Grand Prix Calatrava wristwatch features a dial in cloisonné and paillonné enamel enriched with miniature painting on enamel.

One of these, the 1948 Nations Grand Prix Calatrava wristwatch (reference 5189G-001) features a dial in cloisonné and paillonné enamel and miniature painting on enamel.

This limited edition of ten watches shines a spotlight on the famous Nations Grand Prix, held in Geneva from 1946 to 1950.

This complete showcase also includes a selection of historical rare handcraft timepieces on loan from the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. 

The Rare Handcrafts 2023 exhibition requires no entry fee and will be open to the public from April 1 to April 15, 2023, every day except Sundays, from 11 am to 6 pm (last entry at 5 pm), at the Patek Philippe Salons on Rue du Rhône 41 in Geneva. Visitors are requested to pre-register online. 

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The Watches

Armin Strom Blues its Mirrored Force Resonance

A year after pioneering independent watchmaker Armin Strom launched a redesigned, sleeker Mirrored Force Resonance, the Swiss-based manufacture launches a new version, the Mirrored Force Resonance Manufacture Edition Blue, sporting a specially textured blue dial and matching Alcantara strap.

The new Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Manufacture Edition Blue.

The newest iteration of the watch, first introduced by Armin Strom in 2016, is still one of the few serialized watch designs boasting a resonance-based regulating system. The newest series is a limited edition of fifty pieces with new blue accents that serve to highlight the dial’s three-dimensional display.

The newly dark blue off-center dial matches the twin resonance second counters, both of which are also finished in the same blue tone and painted with white numerals. The open-worked seconds dials (with their triple-arm hands) can be reset to zero by the pusher at 2 o’clock.

Up-close on the new blue ‘grenage’ finish.

These newly colorful elements, unusual enough on any dial,  share the space with another component not seen on any other resonance-based construction: a one-piece steel Resonance Clutch Spring.

Armon Strom’s signature creation essentially transfers energy between both hairsprings and quickly brings the balance wheels into resonance.

Caliber ARF21, showing bas-relief engraved text on back.

This new watch maintains the design’s 43mm by 11.55 steel case and raised sapphire crystal. On the back Armin Strom has engraved — in bas-relief — the mainplate with technical details and characteristics of the Mirrored Force Resonance mechanism.

To completing the blue theme, Armin Strom delivers the Mirrored Force Resonance Manufacture Edition Blue on a matching dark blue Alcantara strap. 

Price: $63,000

Specifications: Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Manufacture Edition Blue 

(Reference no. ST22-RF.05, limited to 50 pieces)

Movement: Armin Strom manufacture Caliber ARF21, manual winding with two independent regulating systems connected by a resonance clutch spring. Power reserve: 48 hours. 

Case: 43mm by 11.55m stainless steel, raised sapphire crystal and caseback with anti-reflective treatment. Water resistance to 30 meters.

Dial: Dark blue with grenage center and a circular satin-brushed chapter ring and applied polished baton indices. Hands: Steel, manufactured by Armin Strom, decorated by hand. 

Strap: Dark blue Alcantara with white stitching and double folding clasp in stainless steel.

Price: $63,000. 

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The Watches

Hublot Adds New Colors to MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Universe

Hublot expands its collection of eccentric MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis 5 Days Power Reserve watches with three new color options, all of which use carbon and composites to reproduce the glittering effect of colored gemstones.

Hublot adds three new color options to its MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis 5 Days Power Reserve collection.

Three new hues, orange, violet and white, join earlier editions with bright colors created through a clever use of colorful composite and carbon fibers braided within strong, lightweight carbon mesh.

Hublot has previously offered other single-color 3-D Carbon versions of the MP-09 and even devised a rainbow edition late last year.

Essentially, Hublot technicians have braided the 49mm carbon case, combining thin bars of carbon and bars of colored composite together and threading them into a mass that, eventually, is milled into a case.

 

Hublot’s existing MP-09 tourbillon caliber (HUB9009.H1.RA.B), which debuted in 2017, is a manually wound movement with a five-day power reserve. The caliber’s impressive bi-axial tourbillon makes one complete rotation per minute for the first axis and a second rotation every thirty seconds for the second axis.

The unusual case shape for the MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis 5 Days Power Reserve derives from Hublot’s choice to design the shape to best display the tourbillon’s double rotation. Hence, the case frames the tourbillon at 6 o’clock with unique undulations, curves and multi-level edges.

Hublot offers eight watches in each of the three new colors. Each watch is priced at $200,000. 

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