While it may be called Skindiver, the Ball Watch EM Skindiver III Beyond is built to standards that allow it to withstand the extreme conditions and rigors that even professional decompression divers will endure.
It also happens to be well-made and a handsome watch that will appeal to anyone who enjoys a sports watch look – or just swimming in style.
Inside the 41.5mm x 13.8mm stainless steel case, this Skindiver houses an automatic winding movement beating at 28,800 vph with an 80-hour power reserve and adjusted and tuned to chronometer standards. The Swiss made movement is anti-magnetic and upgraded with the Ball Amortiser system which brings the anti-shock rating to an impressive 5,000Gs.
Encompassing the cyclops-enhanced sapphire crystal over the dial, the unidirectional rotating bezel has embedded self-illuminating tritium tubes and a domed sapphire crystal ring of its own. Tritium tubes are also used on the dial and hands for superb low-light legibility.
The watch has a classic, timeless look that is both stylish and practical. The black dial and stainless-steel case and bracelet give the watch a sporty tool-watch appearance, while the matte dial has a subtle finish visible under magnification that minimizes glare.
Overall, the Ball Watch EM Skindiver III Beyond is an exceptional dive watch that combines durability, functionality, and style. Whether you are a professional diver or simply someone who enjoys spending time outdoors, this watch is a great choice. Price: $3,699. More info at www.shop.ballwatch.ch.
MB&F adds two new versions of its aerodynamic Horological Machine No.9 Sapphire Vision (HM9-SV), now offering models with a blue CVD movement in a white gold frame and a green CVD movement with a yellow gold frame. The clear case fully exposes the watch’s dual cantilevered balances, planetary differential and free-spinning twin turbines.
Both new models expand the HM9-SV series, which debuted in 2021 with four clear sapphire editions of the original HM9.
With its sapphire livery, the watch joined a family of MB&F models with significant clear sapphire customization, including the HM8,the HM3 FrogX and the ten-sapphire-crystal HM6.
The pioneering independent watchmaker debuted its first HM9 Flow in 2019 as a tribute to 1940s and 1950s automotive and aeronautic designs.
Re-engineered
MB&F culls from its wide-ranging experience of creating with sapphire when re-engineering the HM9 with its clear case. On these SV models, MB&F seals the outer hull with a proprietary three-dimensional gasket and specialized high-tech compound bonding process. The result is new type of water resistant seal (to 30 meters) that is practically invisible.
MB&F explains that its designers were also required to rework a few the original HM9 dimensions with smoother lines and fewer edges to account for the property differences of sapphire crystal.
While quite hard, sapphire can fracture under pressure, which means the smoother lines on this HM9-SV limited this possibility. At the same time the rounded edges only enhance the organic aesthetic of the full watch.
Also new to the HM9-SV is an enhanced shock-resistance system made of laser-forged springs placed between the movement and the case.
As a reminder, the ‘flow’ of time begins on the HM9-SV with two fully independent cantilevered balances that dominate the top of the HM9-SV channel data into the central, spiky differential.
This effectively melds the information sent by the dual balances to a single time-pulse. High-tech conical gears then transmit that energy to through a 90° angle, which in turn makes its way to the HM9-SV’s perpendicular sapphire crystal dial.
MB&F is offering both new editions to the HM9 Sapphire Vision family (PVD-coated blue movement with a white gold frame and a PVD-coated green movement with a yellow gold frame) as a limited edition of five pieces. Price: $490,000.
Movement: Manual-winding in-house with two fully independent balance wheels with planetary differential, frequency of 18,000 bph, single barrel with 45-hour power reserve. Hours and minutes on vertical dial display, dual spherical turbines under the movement,shock-absorbing helicoidal springs linking the movement to the case.
Case: ‘SV’ editions in 57mm x 47mm x 23mm sapphire crystal with frame in 18-karat white, yellow or rose gold (5N+). Hour/minute dial in sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment and Super-LumiNova on the numbers and indexes. Water resistant to 30 meters. Unique assembly process of the three sapphire crystal case parts with a patented three-dimensional gasket and high-tech bonding compound. Total of five sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating: three crystals for the main components of the case, one crystal covering the dial, and one crystal for the dial itself.
Strap: Hand-stitched brown or black alligator strap with red, yellow or white gold folding buckle matching the case.
In the last couple of decades, many exciting materials have filtered into the watch industry. For example, high-end brands such as Richard Mille are experimenting with aerospace-grade alloys and carbon composites.
However, many consumers are fascinated with bronze, the copper-based alloy that gives the Bronze Age its name. On social media, there are many groups dedicated to bronze watches. Consumers revel in sharing images of watch cases in various stages of oxidization.
Over the years I’ve reviewed many cool bronze timepieces and am delighted to add this Samurai Katana Edition from Latvia-based Enera Watch to the list.
Last October I co-designed a watch with Enera called the Purple Skull. At that stage, I discussed the possibility of reviewing the Samurai Katana Edition. There is only one in existence and that is in the possession of brand owner Andrey Shishov.
Very kindly he agreed to ship this exclusive model so I could appreciate the watch in the metal.
Certainly, for a timepiece priced at €2800, it massively exceeded my expectations. With a case measuring 45mm in diameter, it strikes a perfect balance. Compared to other materials like titanium and even steel, bronze is comparably heavy.
I’m happy to report this piece sits comfortably on the wrist and doesn’t feel overbearing. Ultimately that’s due to the patented ergonomic case, crown and lug design (EneraSaT technology).
As I documented previously (in my ‘Purple Skull’ review) Andrey Shishov is a certified bodyguard and shooting instructor. He is also a member of the EBSA, which is an organization for security professionals. He is also very interested in Japanese military traditions and that inspired the design of the Samurai Katana Edition.
Highlights include an engraved bezel featuring traditional Japanese elements and symbols, plus a Chochin lantern shape crown. There are also Sakura flowers on the metallic bronze dial (that symbolize the changeability of life) and Samurai sword shape hour and minute hands. Overall the composition is highly effective and the quality first rate.
Beneath the stylish façade lies a Swiss-made self-winding movement sourced from ETA. The Calibre 2824-2 comprises 25 jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. This premium mechanism is visibly showcased via the sapphire crystal exhibition case back.
Functionally the Samurai Katana Edition features hours, minutes, seconds and date indication. The watch is water resistant to a depth of thirty meters to make it splash proof andnot for diving, and it has a power reserve of approximately forty hours. As a perfect finale, the timepiece is presented on a stingray skin strap that is widely used to make the handle of the katana sword.
Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews.
Chronoswiss expands its Open Gear ReSec collection with the purple-and-black-dialed Open Gear ReSec Voodoo.
Meant to recall “ancient Voodoo rituals” the hand-cut guilloche dial is both dark and somewhat mysterious thanks to both its color and its multi-layer, regulator-style dial layout.
Named for its premier function (ReSec stands for Retrograde Seconds), the watch’s jumping seconds hand operates in a half-circle, leaping from the thirty seconds position back to start its arc to complete counting each minute.
The Open Gear design displays off-center hours (at 12 o’clock position) and a large central minutes hand in addition to the retrograde seconds display at the 6 o’clock position.
In addition to the regulator layout, the Open Gear ReSec Voodoo features all the expected Chronoswiss design codes, including a three-dimensional dial, an onion crown and a fluted bezel.
The watch’s case measures 44mm by 13.35mm and is coated with black DLC that Chronoswiss then decorates with a matte and vertical satin finish.
Here, Chronoswiss allows the viewer to penetrate the dark dial with extra bright Super-LumiNova pillars and an unusual luminous strap, both of which combine to add spooky allure to the limited edition model.
Chronoswiss creates its One Gear ReSec series with its caliber C. 301, an automatic movement built using an in-house jumping seconds module atop a sturdy ETA 2892 caliber.
Chronoswiss then coats the Open Gear ReSec Voodoo rotor purple to match the dial. The full movement is nicely decorated with Côtes de Genève, a polished pallet lever, escape wheel and screws and perlage-finished bridges and plates.
Wempe now offers blue or black rubber straps for its sporty Iron Walker collection of sharp-looking sports watches available with Diver, Tide or GMT functions.
Wempe introduced the Iron Walker collection in 2020 as a high-value series that complements its dressier Wempe Chronometerwerk collection, a high-end series powered by in-house mechanical movements.
The new rubber strap options offer a sportier look to the 42mm functional-focused series with weather-resistant synthetic rubber that matches the watch’s dial coloring. Wempe already includes rubber-strap options within its top-selling 44mm Iron Walker Automatic Chronograph collection.
Rather than simply fitting an off-the-shelf movement into each Iron Walker Dive, GMT or Tide watch, Wempe modifies a Swiss automatic Sellita movement in its Glashütte workshop, adding an in-house fine adjustment subassembly regulated to pass the stringent testing procedure in Glashütte’s own historical observatory.
As a result all the watches in the collection are officially certified chronometer-rated according to the ISO 3159 norm.
All models also offer 300-meter water resistance, a sapphire crystal, SuperLuminova-coated markers and fifty-six hours of power reserve.
Currently Wempe is also updating all the offering within its Wempe Zeitmeister and Iron Walker collections to meet the same strict technical specifications. Prices: $4,150 (diver), $4,440 (GMT) and $4,185 (Tide).