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H. Moser celebrates its partnership with Alpine Motorsports with two Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Alpine Limited Editions, each a new, beautifully skeletonized tourbillon iteration of the independent watchmaker’s successful Streamliner design.

The new H. Moser Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Alpine Limited Edition, Pink Livery

While we’ve seen at least one skeletonized version of this watch previously, the new offerings utilize a different tourbillon movement (HMC 811, with a cylindrical balance spring) and sport the colors of the race team’s two primary liveries: pink and blue.

The most recent version, with pink-hued accents, was launched as a limited edition of twenty pieces in celebration of the 2024 Miami Grand Prix earlier in May. Its pink hue is the result of H. Moser artisans use of synthetic corundum (ruby) to manufacture the small domed dial that tops the skeletonized main dial.

The watch is available exclusively on the H. Moser e-commerce website. H. Moser will make one addition pink model as a fundraiser to be sold at a charity auction to benefit the environmental foundation Aqua Pearls.

The new H. Moser Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Alpine Limited Edition, Blue Livery.

The blue-accented model, offered as a limited edition of 100 pieces, features a skeletonized main dial topped with a small translucent domed dial in blue, a color resulting from the use of synthetic spinel.

On both watches H. Moser fits its superb one-minute flying tourbillon with a blue cage bridge while the namesake cylindrical balance-spring rotates at the 6 o’clock location.

H. Moser explains that “the cylindrical hairspring – fitted with two Breguet overcoils attached at two points – reduces the friction of the pivots and improves the isochronism properties, all the more so if the hairspring is combined with a tourbillon, as is the case here.”

The indices on both models glow with SuperLuminova while the inserts above the blued hour and minute hands feature Globolight. Pink or blue molded rubber straps attach the watch to the wrist. (See full specifications below).

Prices: $98,000 (pink) and $89,000 (blue).

Specifications: H. Moser Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Alpine Limited Edition, Pink Livery

Reference 6811-1202, fully skeletonized steel model, small domed dial in synthetic corundum, pink rubber strap, limited edition of 20 pieces + 1 unique piece (ref. 6811-1201)

Case:

Steel topped by a slightly domed sapphire crystal

Diameter: 42.3 mm

Height without sapphire crystal: 11.0 mm

Height with sapphire crystal: 14.0 mm

Screw-in crown adorned with an engraved “M”

See-through case-back

Water-resistant to 12 ATM

Dial:

Small domed dial in deep pink synthetic corundum at 12 o’clock

Skeletonized main dial

Super-LumiNova indices

Blued hour and minute hands with Globolight inserts

Movement:

Fully skeletonized HMC 811, automatic three-dimensional Manufacture calibre

Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes/height: 5.5 mm (without hands or tourbillon)

Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h

28 jewels

171 components

Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system

Gold, fully skeletonized oscillating weight

Power reserve: minimum 74 hours

Cylindrical balance-spring with two Breguet overcoils

One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with blue skeletonized bridge; hand-bevelled balance bridge

Diamond beveling

Main plate and bridges with anthracite finish

Functions:

Hours and minutes

Strap/bracelet:

Pink rubber strap

Steel folding clasp, engraved with the Moser logo

Price: $98,000.

 

Specifications: H. Moser Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Alpine Limited Edition, Blue Livery

Reference 6811-1200, fully skeletonized steel model, small domed dial in synthetic spinel, blue rubber strap, limited edition of 100 pieces

Case:

Steel topped by a slightly domed sapphire crystal

Diameter: 42.3 mm

Height without sapphire crystal: 11.0 mm
Height with sapphire crystal: 14.0 mm

Screw-in crown adorned with an engraved “M”

See-through case-back

Water-resistant to 12 ATM

Dial:

Small domed dial in bright blue synthetic spinel at 12 o’clock

Skeletonized main dial

Indices in Super-LumiNova

Hour and minute hands with Globolight inserts

Movement:

Fully skeletonized HMC 811, automatic three-dimensional Manufacture calibre

Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes/height: 5.5 mm (without hands or tourbillon) 

Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h

28 jewels

171 components

Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system

Gold, fully skeletonized oscillating weight

Power reserve: minimum 74 hours

Cylindrical hairspring with two Breguet overcoils

One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with skeletonized bridge; hand-bevelled balance bridge

Diamond beveling

Main plate and bridges with anthracite finish

Functions:

Hours and minutes

Strap/bracelet:

Blue rubber strap

Steel folding clasp, engraved with the Moser logo

Price: $89,000.

By Steve Huyton

Distant galaxies and the thought of potential planets with life forms have fascinated astronomers for centuries. It has also inspired writers and filmmakers to re-imagine certain possibilities. Ultimately this has filtered into costume design and various accessories.

Within the world of horology, several brands are conceiving futuristic creations that display time differently. Their work offer a perfect balance of innovative design and traditional mechanical watch technology. Here are five brilliant examples that have an intergalactic aesthetic.

Azimuth Land Cruiser

The Land Cruiser was developed over four years and carries the DNA of its predecessor, the SP-1 Landship. This incarnation has a much more curvaceous façade and futuristic appearance.

The Azimuth Land Cruiser

For this particular piece, Azimuth has opted for a 316L stainless steel case rather instead of a titanium case. Functionally the watch features regulator hour and retrograde minute complications. Beneath the sleek façade lies a specially modified Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement with perlage finishing. This calibre comprises twenty-six jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28.800 vibrations per hour.

Gelfman IN-16 Nixie

The Gelfman IN-16 Nixie watch was officially nominated for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2022 in the “Petite Aiguille” category. In my opinion, this watch is a brilliant example of modernistic design.

The Gelfman IN-16 Nixie

The timepiece exudes masculine proportions and has a hand-polished sculpted stainless-steel case measuring 45.9mm x 47.8mm x 20.5mm. Time is displayed on two IN-16 Nixie tubes and is programmable via a PC or Mac App. Functionally the watch features hours, minutes, date and battery percentage indications. This device also has an accelerometer with gesture recognition.

Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System

The MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System is one of the most distinctive pieces Hublot of produced to date. Incredibly, this watch required five years of fastidious research and development to create.

The Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System

With 592 individual components, two linear weights, one inclined tourbillon and a circular power reserve, this is definitely a formidable piece. What makes it so remarkable is the open-worked architectural 3-D dial that is devoid of hands. Hours, minutes, seconds and dates are presented on anodized black aluminum cylinders. Beneath the titanium micro-blasted chassis is a sophisticated self-winding inclined tourbillon movement.

MB&F Horological Machine Nº11 Architect

MB&F is synonymous for the production of exquisite timepieces, and they don’t come much finer than the Horological Machine Nº11 Architect.

The MB&F HM11 Architect

The original concept was first introduced by acclaimed designer Eric Giroud in 2018. However, it was several years before the completed version was presented to the market. By comparison, this particular timepiece is smaller than previous models released by the brand.

Nevertheless, the futuristic spaceship-style Grade-5 titanium case is designed to make a bold impression. Powering the watch is a highly complicated 29-jewel mechanical hand-winding movement that is composed of 364 individual parts.

SEVENFRIDAY FreeDb

SEVENFRIDAY is a progressive Swiss brand that has gained a solid reputation within the watch industry for its modernistic designs. Recently the brand decided to incorporate 3-D print technology into its flagship models.

Three versions of the SevenFriday FreeDb

The FreeDb is a new release that utilizes a special polyamide (PA11 & PA12) normally associated with the medical, aerospace, and racing sectors.

Its unique textural qualities give the timepiece a futuristic aesthetic. Hour, minute and second indications are displayed on domed discs.

At the heart of the watch is a Swiss automatic Sellita SW300-1 movement. This mechanism comprises 26 jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews

By Steve Huyton

For a long time, Chinese-made products have been unfairly dismissed as inferior quality or disposable products. Admittedly in a region as large as China, there is a broad spectrum ranging from substandard to superlative.

Nevertheless, tech giant Apple exclusively manufactures in this country and it hasn’t deterred consumers at all. Within the watch industry, the label Swiss-made still carries a lot of weight. However, there are a lot of brands like Ciga Design that are changing people’s perceptions.

This company shook the world of horology on its head by winning the Challenge Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2021 awards for the phenomenal Blue Planet.

The Ciga Design Central Tourbillon Mount Everest Homage Edition

For that reason, I was delighted to hear of another formidable piece called the Central Tourbillon Mount Everest Homage Edition. This watch was unveiled in 2023 to commemorate the 70th anniversary of mankind’s conquest of Mount Everest.

I’ve always been fascinated with innovative design and that was the catalyst for writing books about this subject. My philosophy is to select based on creative merit rather than brand status. This strategy I believe is more advantageous for the reader because they are offered increased diversity.

That’s why I’m very pleased that brands such as Ciga Design are getting the recognition they deserve. The business is the brainchild of multi-disciplinary designer Zhang Jianmin who specializes in fields like architecture, graphics and product design. After twenty-six years of commercial experience, he decided to launch his own watch brand. In my opinion, the Central Tourbillon Mount Everest Homage Edition is their most ambitious creation to date.

Hilary Quote

Ciga Design have set the tone for this watch by using a quote from mountaineer Sir Edmund Hilary: “It’s not the mountain we conquer but ourselves.”

These words are very inspiring and captivate the essence of the Central Tourbillon Mount Everest Homage Edition.

Fortunately, I got to inspect one of these amazing timepieces and was incredibly impressed with the overall quality. Aesthetically this watch has a distinctive Avant-Garde appearance normally found in Haute Horlogerie watches that retail for multiple times the price.

The proportions have also been well considered. With a 45mm titanium case, this piece sits comfortably on the wrist and is suitable to wear with formal/casual attire.

What makes the Central Tourbillon Mount Everest Homage Edition so special is the meticulous attention to detail. Remarkably, Ciga Design’s chief designer personally embarked on a journey to the base of Mount Everest to source rock for the dial of the watch. This creates a 3D texture that perfectly frames the exposed central tourbillon carriage.

Other incredible characteristics include ice axe-style hands engraved with the signatures of both Sir Edmund Hilary and Tenzing Norway. Ciga Design has also added a nice touch by including the four world flags of Britain, Nepal, India and the United Nations. Overall the minimalistic composition is highly effective and the quality first rate.

Beneath the architectural façade lies a very sophisticated in-house customized hand-winding movement. The Calibre CD-05 comprises 33 jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour.

This exquisite mechanism is visibly showcased via the sapphire crystal exhibition engraved case back. Functionally the Central Tourbillon Mount Everest Homage Edition features hours, minutes and seconds. The watch also has a very impressive power reserve of 120 hours and is water resistant to a depth of thirty meters.

As a perfect finale, the Central Tourbillon Mount Everest Homage Edition is presented on a textured rubber black strap with a complimentary titanium buckle. With a retail of $3,600, I believe this watch is very competitively priced.

Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews

As the founder and creative force behind the global Philipp Plein universe, Plein discusses his edgy global fashion brand’s auspicious entry into the world of high-end watchmaking.

Fresh from launching his latest collection in Geneva earlier this month, and just after a second launch in Milan during Salone de Mobile, Plein speaks about his motivation, his design process and his plans for the Philipp Plein luxury watch collection.   

Philipp Plein at the Philipp Plein Showroom during Salone del Mobile 2024 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Lorenzo Palizzolo/Getty Images for Philipp Plein)

iW: What first inspired you to enter the luxury end of the watch business?

Philipp Plein: I’ve always been a big collector of timepieces and high-end luxury watches and expanding the collection from fashion watches to luxury tourbillon only seemed a natural extension of the Philipp Plein universe.

How do you first consider creating a new Philipp Plein watch design? What is your design process?

A creative process starts first with market research which includes qualitative and quantitative data. The research phase is a key activity to get all possible data from consumer trends, market dynamics, color palette and fabrics. These information and materials are the greatest source I use to start any product development.

The Philipp Plein Dare Devil XII, one of four flying tourbillon models debuted in Geneva in April.

These watch designs started with the creation of an iconic watch case which could represent at the highest design and the iconic brand DNA. Every detail is expression of PHILIPP PLEIN brand, and the ability to transfer these iconic shapes and design concepts across every timepiece creation makes this detailed execution one of the greatest projects I have been working on.

How has your own history as a designer in other areas influenced your watch designs?

Since starting my design journey, accessories have always been a major focus towards creating and completing the Philipp Plein look. With timepieces, we’ve taken our signature design codes; maximalism, quality, shine and sparkle; and have continued to translate them into products that are reflective of who we are.

What aspects or imagery of the Philipp Plein brand are visible within the newest watch debuts?

The tonneau case shape is making a return for the latest models, it’s a silhouette we come back to and one that is a show of luxury for us. The hexagonal Philipp Plein logo is also present on the dials of each new model, with the iconic shape also continued on the texture and pattern of the case exterior. On the reverse of the Flying Tourbillon, the brand’s iconic $miley and $kull-bone complete the new look.

Do you coordinate the look of these watches with other Philipp Plein products?

The Philipp Plein timepieces are both distinctive and complimentary to the full Plein look. Each piece is carefully designed to fit within the Philipp Plein and Plein Sport universe, while expanding on the innovation and continual forward advancement of each brand.

Plein Sport sneakers are another perfect alignment, creating products that are both made for functional active use, while still being within the maximal, eye-catching design styles that continues to bring people towards the Philipp Plein group.

Why use the tonneau case shape (rather than round or square) for these high-end models?

The tonneau case shape is best for our high-end models because it offers a distinctive blend of elegance and comfort on the wrist, embodying the essence of luxury. Its curved design allows for intricate dial detailing and showcases the craftsmanship synonymous with our watchmaking, appealing to collectors with both aesthetic beauty and technical excellence.

The Philipp Plein Noir Samurai Crypto King Hexagon

Will you continue to offer new models within the existing watch collections?

Yes, Philipp Plein Timepieces and Philipp Plein Sport Timepieces will continue to present two seasonal collections a year, as will as a new collection of Swiss Made Luxury Collections in Geneva each year.  Additionally, we presented a new exclusive style at Salone del Mobile connected to the opening of the Philipp Plein Hotel in Milan.

How do you determine the names for each model?

We’ve been accepting cryptocurrency as a payment option since 2021, so the Crypto King collection is representative of this forward thinking and cutting-edge way of operating. Crypto King is and always has been a glance into the future, both for our watchmaking and the brand more generally.

The Ice Breaker

Can we expect additional complications beyond the flying tourbillon in future Philipp Plein watches?

Absolutely. We look at the tourbillons as just the starting point for our exploration and innovation in watchmaking. While the flying tourbillon represents a pinnacle of precision and craftsmanship, we’re committed to pushing the boundaries further by incorporating additional complications into our future timepieces.

A side view of the Philipp Plein Night Wolf Crypto King Flying Tourbillon.

Our goal is to continually surprise and delight watch enthusiasts with new and exciting advancements in horology, staying true to our brand’s ethos of daring creativity and uncompromising quality.

Thank You.

Benrus relaunches its Type I-C dive and field watch with a new series that recreates the look and feel of the original pioneering 1960s-era Benrus Type I military watches.

One of four new Benrus Type I-C watches

The historic U.S.-based brand is recreating the Type I-C with a design faithful to the original asymmetric-cased model, including its spare, logo-free dial, full 300-meter water resistance, big indexes and large luminous hands.

Benrus offers a choice of three dial colors, white, blue and black, each cased in a 42.5mm by 47.5mm bead-blasted steel case with a screw-in textured crown, bidirectional rotating hour bezel and double-domed sapphire crystal.

Inside Benrus fits a Soprod P024 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve.

Benrus offers the black-dialed model with two bezel and strap options. One features a matching black bezel, a direct echo of the original design. That watch comes with a black two-piece rubber tropic strap. The second black-dialed model comes with a red bezel and is available on a red two-piece rubber tropic strap.

Other variations include a white dial with black bezel on a white two-piece rubber tropic strap and an all-blue model featuring a blue dial with matching blue bezel and blue two-piece rubber tropic strap.

Each Swiss-made Benrus Type I-C watch benefits from a healthy dollop of white Super-LumiNova markers and hands. On the back of each watch you’ll also find an image of an American flag.

Benrus was the first watchmaker to land a U.S. military watch contract during the Vietnam war. Its Mil-Spec MIL-W-50717 watches were used by soldiers in the various branches, including the U.S. Navy, U.S. Army, the Green Berets and the CIA.

Price: $1,495.

Specifications: Benrus Type I-C

Case Diameter: 42.5mm (without crown)

Case Length: 47.5mm (top lug to bottom lug)

Case Height: 15mm

Lug Width: 20mm

Bead blasted 316L stainless steel case w/ screw-in high-grip textured crown

Double domed sapphire crystal

BW G9 Super-LumiNova on dial markers and hands

Soprod P024 w/ 38-hour power reserve

30ATM water resistance

Quick release two-piece rubber tropic strap

Special American Flag case back

Swiss Made