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By Steve Huyton

In the last couple of decades, many exciting materials have filtered into the watch industry. For example, high-end brands such as Richard Mille are experimenting with aerospace-grade alloys and carbon composites. 

However, many consumers are fascinated with bronze, the copper-based alloy that gives the Bronze Age its name. On social media, there are many groups dedicated to bronze watches. Consumers revel in sharing images of watch cases in various stages of oxidization. 

Over the years I’ve reviewed many cool bronze timepieces and am delighted to add this Samurai Katana Edition from Latvia-based Enera Watch to the list.

The Enera Samurai Katana Edition

Last October I co-designed a watch with Enera called the Purple Skull. At that stage, I discussed the possibility of reviewing the Samurai Katana Edition. There is only one in existence and that is in the possession of brand owner Andrey Shishov. 

Very kindly he agreed to ship this exclusive model so I could appreciate the watch in the metal.

Certainly, for a timepiece priced at €2800, it massively exceeded my expectations. With a case measuring 45mm in diameter, it strikes a perfect balance. Compared to other materials like titanium and even steel, bronze is comparably heavy. 

I’m happy to report this piece sits comfortably on the wrist and doesn’t feel overbearing. Ultimately that’s due to the patented ergonomic case, crown and lug design (EneraSaT technology).

As I documented previously (in my ‘Purple Skull’ review) Andrey Shishov is a certified bodyguard and shooting instructor. He is also a member of the EBSA, which is an organization for security professionals. He is also very interested in Japanese military traditions and that inspired the design of the Samurai Katana Edition. 

Highlights include an engraved bezel featuring traditional Japanese elements and symbols, plus a Chochin lantern shape crown. There are also Sakura flowers on the metallic bronze dial (that symbolize the changeability of life) and Samurai sword shape hour and minute hands. Overall the composition is highly effective and the quality first rate.

Beneath the stylish façade lies a Swiss-made self-winding movement sourced from ETA. The Calibre 2824-2 comprises 25 jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. This premium mechanism is visibly showcased via the sapphire crystal exhibition case back. 

Functionally the Samurai Katana Edition features hours, minutes, seconds and date indication. The watch is water resistant to a depth of thirty meters to make it splash proof and  not for diving, and it has a power reserve of approximately forty hours. As a perfect finale, the timepiece is presented on a stingray skin strap that is widely used to make the handle of the katana sword.

Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews.

By Steve Huyton 

Over the last decade, I’ve dealt with many talented craftsmen worldwide. Mostly, fine watchmaking is associated with Switzerland. However, I recently connected with a gentleman named Andrey Shishov who is located in Riga, Latvia. His brand Enera is very popular on social media watch forums, and I was intrigued to discover what motivated Andrey to establish a cool micro-brand.

The Enera Marine Bronze.

Very kindly he agreed to unpack his back story, which is absolutely fascinating. 

Shishov is a certified bodyguard and shooting instructor. He is also a member of the EBSA which is an organization for security professionals. This experience inspired the conception of many of Enera’s models.

The Enera Desert Rose.

Since 2018 Enera has released six models: the Marine, Bodyguard, Pilot, Asymmetrix, Samurai and Desert Rose. All of these timepieces have oversized cases and are designed for people who like to make a bold statement.

An Enera Bodyguard model, with green dial.

Enera also offers a ten-year guarantee on all their watches. Additionally, any damage to the case (including crown and glass) incurred during the warranty period is repaired free of charge. This is a pledge unheard of in the industry and it certainly illustrates how confident Shishov is about the overall quality of his watches. 

Another notable point is each timepiece is assembled by hand in Riga from components entirely sourced in Europe. 

Custom work

When I initially spoke to Shishov, he explained his individual approach for each of his customers. 

Effectively clients can choose dial color, strap (from handmade collection) and even personalized engraving. This gave me the idea to create a particular unique watch with Enera called the ‘Purple Skull’.

The Enera Purple Skull, a custom example within the Bodyguard collection.

For this collaboration, we decided to use Enera’s Bodyguard model as it is synonymous with the brand. The initial concept of the Bodyguard is inspired by the design of armored vehicles. This is reflected in the brutish geometric angular 48mm 316L stainless steel case. 

To accentuate the industrial façade I felt a gothic purple dial with an engraved skull would be highly effective. On the case side is a bronze plate with the initials of my brand Paolo Mathai Horology in Malayalam script.

Powering the watch is an ETA Swiss automatic movement, Caliber 2824-1, with 25 jewels, which oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The caliber is visibly showcased via the sapphire crystal exhibition case back.

Functionally the Purple Skull features hours, minutes, seconds and a date indication (located at 3 o’clock). The watch also has a power reserve of 40 hours and is water resistant to 100 meters. As a perfect finale, the Purple Skull is presented on an exquisite handcrafted grey leather strap (plus an additional NATO strap) with a complimentary engraved stainless steel buckle.

Enera’s Bodyguard series is priced starting at about $1,685.  

Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews.