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Watches and Wonders 2023: The Chopard Alpine Eagle with Small Seconds 

Among its 2023 Watches and Wonders Debuts, Chopard adds an ultra-thin small-seconds model to its high-flying Alpine Eagle collection.

The new Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS.

The new watch, the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS, comes a year after Chopard debuted a small-seconds display within the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon. The new watch expands an already impressive list of Alpine Eagle variations, including models with a flyback chronograph movement, a high-frequency caliber and the recent flying tourbillon.

This series places Chopard’s superior L.U.C 96.40-L movement in a 41mm by 8mm steel case, topping it with what Chopard calls its “Monte Rosa Pink” dial.

Chopard explains that the new dial color is inspired by natural Alpine colors and is named to evoke the pinkish shimmer after which the second highest mountain range in the Alps is named.

The Chopard L.U.C caliber inside the new watch, like so many of Chopard’s excellent in-house movements, offers a much-welcomed long power reserve of sixty-five hours thanks to its two stacked barrels based on Chopard Twin technology.

Chopard also equips the movement with a stop-seconds function that is backed up with a chronometer certification by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. (Note the “Chronometer” inscription on the dial below the logo.) In addition to its chronometer certification, the watch is finished to Geneva Seal haute horlogerie standards.

Chopard makes all its steel Alpine Eagle models with its own Lucent Steel A223, a particularly shiny and element-resistant alloy. Other characteristics of the collection include: a round case with stylized flanks, a crown engraved with a compass rose, a bezel with eight functional screws set at a tangent, a stamped colorful ‘eagle’s iris’ dial, luminescent indications and a metal bracelet. Price: $22,500. 

 

Also New in 2023

During Watches and Wonders 2023 Chopard also debuted a new 25mm Happy Sport collection the debuts in four variations featuring a choice of materials, straps – including a new double tour option – and diamond settings. Prices start at $4,450.

One of four new 25mm options in the new Chopard Happy Sport collection.

In addition, look for Imperiale, a rose-gold-cased 25-piece limited edition in ethical 18-karat rose gold models with a lotus flower motif.

The new Chopard Imperiale.

The flowers bloom against the sky backdrop that appears to change thanks to a rotating day-night mechanism. Price: $90,700.

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The Watches

Chopard Races with the 2022 Mille Miglia

As a partner and official timekeeper to the Mille Miglia classic car race since 1988, Chopard annually issues a new limited series chronograph inspired by the 1,000-mile tour through Italy (which just completed its fortieth run from Brescia to Rome and back).

The new Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition, here in all-steel.

For 2022 Chopard launches two models. One is a steel-cased version made as a 1,000-piece limited edition, while the second is a 250-piece limited edition that features a rose gold crown, pushers and bezel.

The Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition, with Ethical gold crown, pushers and bezel.

This year’s edition features a silver-grey dial with handsome light blue hands, hour-markers and bezel inlay (with tachymeter scale). Notable this year, in addition to the color scheme, is the larger date display and a distinctive use of differing of dial finishes to separate the chronograph functions from the day-to-day timekeeping display.

Chopard finishes the chronograph counters (at 6 and 12 o’clock) with a peripheral snailed pattern, which differs from the small seconds at 9 o’clock. These displays also feature red-tipped hands that echo one of the official Mille Miglia colors. The timekeeping hands are quite visible with their broad size, blue rim and a generous helping of luminous material.

Inside both models Chopard fits a COSC-chronometer-certified ETA-based automatic movement. To better utilize this precision instrument during any competition, Chopard also fits solid mushroom-type pushers with a broad surface engraved with a knurled pattern for a sure grip. In the same vein, Chopard’s large and ratcheted crown also ensures easy use.

Racing champion Jacky Ickx wears the Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition.

Chopard fits the new Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition timepiece with a terrific-looking brown perforated calfskin strap lined with rubber. As usual, Chopard patterns this rubber to echo the tread of 1960s Dunlop Racing tires. Prices: $11,400 (with Ethical rose gold) and $7,770 (steel).

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The Watches

Commoditization Versus Collecting

By Gary Girdvainis

I think it was just after the 2008 crash that the calls started coming in.

Complete strangers were calling our offices and inquiring about watches as potential instruments for investment. From their perspective it seemed to make sense. Fine timepieces have perpetual and intrinsic value, are liquid and easy to convert to cash and small enough to secret away in a bank deposit box or home safe. Some will even appreciate over time.

Bernhard Lederer’s stunning Central Impulse Chronometer.

To these speculators and investors, the watch was simply a widget and could be anything (think NFTs), a device in which to insert capital and to be added to the other elements of a portfolio.

This cold, calculating valuation of wristwatches has gained momentum over the last decade-plus and is fueling rampant and runaway pricing on several preferred models. Some of which have seen values soar to ten, fifteen or even twenty times the original retail price.

The Jacob & Co. Jean Bugatti in a rose gold case.

This explosive surge has been brought on by a kind of perfect storm. First-off it could not happen without the internet. In the pre-internet era values would still climb on preferred pieces, but the forces pushing the growth were operating at a statelier pace. Watches would see price growth at auction, or via secondary sales at retail shops. The growth was not as immediately visible and volatile as the current state of viral information pathways.

The RGM Model 222-RR is a modern wristwatch with a vintage heart, featuring a Hamilton pocket watch movement and a ‘grand feu’ enamel dial.

Another factor is the fear of missing out. Buyers (note I did not say collectors) want to hop on board before the train leaves the station and are fueling the fires of desire and driving costs through the roof.

Forgive me if I feel that buying a watch purely as an investment is a sterile event without any real enthusiasm for the product, or any chance that the “investment” watches will ever see the light of day. Chances are the commoditized timepieces will sit in the dark until the next transaction, never to be enjoyed, shared, or shown-off except to confirm authenticity.

The Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8 HF.

I’m a watch guy and have been for a long time. I appreciate the look, feel, sounds, and even smells (that vanilla scent on a nice rubber strap) that evoke pride of ownership and real enjoyment. Whether an affordable field watch with great lume, or a repeater softly chiming the time, watches are meant to be worn just like cars are meant to be driven.

I have a friend that has had amazing financial success in life. He recently invited me to his home and knowing I’m a car enthusiast was happy to show me some of the exceptional cars he had acquired over the years. One of which was the famous 1955 Jaguar D-Type. Designed for racing at LeMans and other venues, the D Type also happens to be street legal.

The Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon, now in two new designs, feature a new type of dial with tinted gold and aluminum sparkles to match either a platinum or gold case.

So as my friend sees me gaping at his exquisite machine, he tells me to look under the wheel well. I bend over, careful not to touch the coachworks, and look underneath. What I see is a spattering of mud on the wheel well liner. Not only does he drive this seven-million-dollar car, he drives it around town and even drives it to the track on vintage race days!

This post first appeared in the Winter 2022 issue of iW Magazine.

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The Watches

Under the Radar: Chopard’s L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer

All week we’re reviewing 2022 debuts presented during Watches and Wonders 2022 that, perhaps, you didn’t read too much about in the first wave of online reporting.

With a trio of glorious chiming watches and a terrific flying tourbillon model highlighting Chopard’s 2022 Watches and Wonders debuts, it’s no wonder this handsome limited edition might have garnered less attention than it deserves.

Chopard’s L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer.

With a gold 40mm case, a forest green guilloché gold dial and a hinged officer-type back cover, the new L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer, which bears the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, is both distinctive and elegant.

Much of its distinction lies within its gold case. Inside Chopard has placed its celebrated ultra-thin (3.30mm) L.U.C 96.01-L movement, which is the first Chopard Manufacture caliber from 1997.

Built with Chopard Twin technology and a 22-karat gold micro-rotor, the movement supplies two stacked barrels that guarantee a 65-hour power reserve and confer chronometer-certified precision. All L.U.C models with a small seconds display are certified by the Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

As noted, the watch’s forest green dial is built on a solid gold base. In the center you’ll find a hand-guilloché honeycomb motif that also adorns the back cover. Until the 1920s, Chopard engraved all its watch movements and covers with this beehive and bees to symbolize industry.

The bees appear in random manner, which means each watch engraving is slightly different from another. Chopard reprised the bee symbol at the advent of the L.U.C collection in 1996.

L.U.C Caliber 96.01-L

 

Price: ($33,500, limited to 50 pieces)

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Watches and Wonders 2022: The Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon

Chopard adds the first complication to its Alpine Eagle collection with the new Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon, the watchmaker’s highlight debut from Watches & Wonders 2022.

The 41mm steel watch, with a high-frequency (25,200 vph) flying tourbillon, also dips the sporty Alpine Eagle collection into the luxury category, as it is Chopard’s first complication watch bearing the Geneva Seal quality hallmark.

The Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon, new at Watches & Wonders 2022.

Chopard builds the watch’s flying tourbillon without an upper bridge, which gives the regulating component its ‘flying’ moniker. That transparency in this L.U.C 96.24-L movement is based on the development of Chopard Manufacture’s first caliber (L.U.C 96.01-L from 1997). Like that caliber, the new movement also thin, measuring 3.3mm.

Thanks to this internal thinness, Chopard also built a thinner case than is typically found within the Alpine Eagle collection. The case on his new model measures 8mm thick, with a thinner bezel and lug set when compared to a classic Alpine Eagle Large model.

Chopard also equipped this new movement with a stop-seconds function that is backed up with a chronometer certification by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. (Note the “Chronometer” inscription on the dial below the logo.)

This double certification (COSC and Geneva Seal) places the Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon alone on the market (according to Chopard) as the only flying tourbillon watch receive both certifications.

The impressive new Chopard caliber L.U.C 96.24-L earns Geneva Seal and COSC certifications.

The Chopard L.U.C caliber, like so many of Chopard’s excellent in-house movements, offers a much-welcomed long power reserve of sixty-five hours thanks to its two stacked barrels based on Chopard Twin technology.

While Chopard has embedded unique characteristics into the new watch, the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon still echoes all the Alpine Eagle collection’s overall profile, including a round case with stylized sides, a crown engraved with the compass rose, a bezel with eight functional screws set at a tangent, a stamped dial featuring a deep color (here textured blue on a gold base), luminescent indications, and a proprietary Lucent Steel A233 bracelet and case.

Price: Upon request.

Also new from Chopard at Watches & Wonders 2022

The Chopard Happy Sport Chrono, a 40mm COSC-certified automatic chronograph with an ethical 18-karat rose gold case, and gold dial hosting seven ‘dancing’ diamonds. Price: $28,600.

The Chopard Happy Sport 33 mm, an ethical rose gold (case and bracelet) three-hand watch with five ‘dancing’ diamonds spinning around its gilded satin-brushed dial. Price: $29,700.

 

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