One of two new Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT models.
With its full-throttled release of new Riviera designs within the past few years, Baume & Mercier continues in 2023 to update one of its most-loved designs.
While the most recent Riviera update includes good-looking time-only, moon phase and skeleton models, this new GMT edition turned my head the quickest. Granted, the steel and titanium design came in a close second, but the new 42mm steel Riviera GMT model, offered in two color options, topped my list.
With its twelve-sided bezel and accompanying four screws, Riviera has managed to retain its casual elegance since its 1973 debut. When Baume & Mercier presented a fifth-generation Riviera collection in 2021, I was impressed.
But the new GMT upholds Riviera’s tacit invitation to travel (yes, to the French Riviera) with an actual dual-time function. Its central fourth hand rotates around the dial every 24 hours to indicate the time in the travel destination on the peripheral hour scale.
The GMT hand on the new design is as red as a sunburn on its namesake beach, and on either dial the second time zone is always highly visible. But this is especially true on the silver-dial edition, which also displays the 24-hour markers in matching red.
As noted, the two new Riviera GMT watches are available in two versions: one with a blue dialand a blue rubber strap and one with a silver dial and a steel bracelet. Both offer a tone-on-tone sun-satin finish and wave dial decor under a sapphire sapphire crystal with anti-glare coating on both sides. The GMT movement here is powered by an ETA-based caliber.
The watch’s octagonal crown of course displays Baume & Mercier’s Phi logo engraving in relief with a red line. Baume & Mercier’s own “Fast Strap” interchangeability system makes it a simple task to change from one strap style to another with no need for tools.
Prices: $3,200 (silver dial and steel bracelet) and $3,100 (blue dial with blue rubber strap).
At Watches & Wonders 2020 Baume & Mercier added four Clifton watches with the impressive Baumatic automatic movement, which boasts a five-day power reserve, high efficiency escapement and silicon hairspring. These new models include watches that boast a perpetual calendar, a day-date model with moonphase, a date model with moonphase and a beautiful 39mm COSC-certified date and time-only watch.
And while all deliver the Baumatic movement within a nicely polished and satin-finished steel or rose gold case, we were particularly taken with the high value offered by the Clifton Baumatic Day/Date Moonphase, a 42mm watch that effortlessly combines all the indicators I need in any non-chronograph watch onto a particularly eye-catching gradient lacquered grey dial.
The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Day/Date Moonphase, in pink gold case.
The days at the top of the dial are clearly marked with minimal fuss while the accompanying date makes perfect sense just across the dial. With an easy symmetry, the day and the date are each indicated by a hand of the same shape and color.
The new Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Day-Date Moonphase, steel case.On the dial Baume & Mercier fits a grey sapphire wave-shaped aperture that allows the moon to shine.
Likewise the trapezoid-shaped hour markers perfectly echo the long, alpha-type hands, and both of these indicators are colored to match your choice of pink gold or steel case.
A secondary dial highlight, after the perfectly gradient dial work, is the dual-moonphase display that Baume & Mercier touches up with a somewhat hidden persuader: a grey sapphire wave-shaped aperture that allows the moon to shine according to schedule as the disc rotates.
This grey-tinted sapphire is a defining feature on both the pink gold and steel models, blending seamlessly with the gradation of the dial.
These dial details speak volumes about how Baume & Mercier continues to design thoughtfully considered classic dress watches at a level higher than their selling price might indicate.
Long Power Reserve
Since Baume & Mercier knows that keeping all these indicators on time means keeping the mainspring wound and ticking, the Geneva manufacture supplies the watch (and the entire series of watches) with the aforementioned Baumatic movement built with a helpful five-day power reserve.
And to add another layer of luxury to this affordably priced watch (in steel, it is priced at $4,400), Baume & Mercier nicely decorates the in-house movement with a gilded, open-worked oscillating weight finished with Côtes de Genève and snailing. (Baume & Mercier indicates that the back can also be engraved by special order.)
The entire package, particularly in its steel case, emphasizes Baume & Mercier’s long-time strength as a legacy brand that maintains a high-value collection of Swiss- manufactured watches. Prices: $12,200 (pink gold case) and $4,400 (steel case). Both watches are slated to be delivered in October.
Movement: In-house self-winding Baumatic BM14 1975 AC2. Bridge with circular-grained décor, sandblasted plate with snailed décor, gilt open-worked oscillating weight adorned with “Côtes de Genève” and snailed decors, Baume & Mercier engravings, power reserve of 5 days (120 hours), Frequency of 28,800 vph.
Case: 42mm by 12.95 polished and satin-finished pink gold with antiglare and scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal, polished 18-karat pink gold crown, open caseback secured with 4 screws
Dial: H/M/S, date-day and moonphase indication. Gradient grey lacquered, gilt riveted trapezoid-shaped indexes, slightly elongated gilt ‘alpha’ hands, grey transparent sapphire aperture at 6 o’clock, polished gilt moon-phase disc with blue lacquered finish
Strap: Interchangeable blue alligator with tone-on-tone stitching on the top and burgundy color on the bottom and bridle points at the buckle; system of curved bars with lug that allows strap change without tools. Polished and satin-finished 18-karat pink gold pin buckle.
Movement: In-house self-winding Baumatic BM14 1975 AC2. Bridge with circular- grained décor, sandblasted plate with snailed décor, gilt open-worked oscillating weight adorned with “Côtes de Genève” and snailed decors, Baume & Mercier engravings, power reserve of 5 days (120 hours), Frequency of 28,800 vph.
Case: 42mm by 13.2mm polished and satin-finished stainless steel, antiglare scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal, open caseback secured with 4 screws
Dial: H/M/S, day-date, moon-phase indications. Dial is gradient grey lacquered, rhodium-plated riveted trapezoid-shaped slightly elongated indexes, rhodium-plated ‘alpha’ hands, grey transparent sapphire aperture at 6 o’clock, polished rhodium-plated moon-phase disc with blue lacquered finish
Strap: Interchangeable blue alligator with tone-on-tone stitching on the top and burgundy color on the bottom and bridle points at the buckle; system of curved bars with lug that allows strap change without tools; triple folding buckle with security push-pieces
