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A year after Grand Seiko introduced complicated and sporty models to its  Evolution 9 Collection, the watchmaker adds its first automatic chronograph to the collection.

The new Grand Seiko Tentagraph.

The new model, the Tentagraph, features Grand Seiko’s high-beat (36,000 mph) movement, Caliber 9SA5, which is enriched with two barrels and an ultra-efficient Dual Impulse Escapement. The existing GMT chronograph within Evolution 9 is powered with Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology (Caliber 9R96). 

With these technical enhancements, Grand Seiko says the Tentagraph will retain its power reserve in chronograph operating mode for seventy-two hours, which the watchmaker call the “longest power reserve in the industry today.”

Grand Seiko tests its Tentagraph movement for twenty days with a strict precision goal of +5 to -3 seconds per day.

The new 43.2mm by 15.3mm titanium-cased watch retains the eye-catching Evolution 9 textured dial finish, here colored blue. The dial’s large indexes and recessed sub-dials deliver a quick read for the wearer.

Grand Seiko also gently curves the chronograph seconds downward so that the tip of the hand is as close as possible to the dial’s markers, again enhancing legibility.

The chronograph features a running seconds sub-dial at the three o’clock position, a 30-minute chronograph counter at nine, and a 12-hour chronograph counter at six o’clock.

Grand Seiko’s own proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement efficiently transfers energy to the free-sprung balance wheel indirectly through the pallet fork and also directly from the escape wheel, enhancing the movement’s efficiency.

In addition, Grand Seiko builds a vertical clutch and a column wheel into the movement, both of which enhance accuracy and chronograph control.

On the dial Grand Seiko places its signature Mt. Iwate pattern, named for the nearby mountain visible through the windows of the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi.

The Tentagraph’s bezel is made of ceramic.

The Grand Seiko will make the Tentagraph available at the Grand Seiko Boutiques and select retail partners starting in June. Price: $13,700.  

Specifications: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph

(Ref. SLGC001) 

Movement: Caliber 9SC5
Driving system: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour (10 beats per second)
Accuracy (mean daily rate): +5 to -3 seconds per day
Power reserve: 72 hours
Chronograph with 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock and 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock

Dial: Blue ‘Mt. Iwate’ pattern finish.  

Case: 43.2mm by 15.3mm high-intensity titanium, box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, ceramic bezel, see-through screw-on case back, screw-down crown, water resistance to 100 meters and magnetic resistance of 4,800 A/m. 

Bracelet: Three-fold titanium clasp with push button release.

Price: $13,700.

 

New Masterpiece

At Watches and Wonders 2023 Grand Seiko also debuted a hand-engraved, manual-wind platinum model in its Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection.

Its dial consists of the now familiar Shinshu white birch pattern, though here Grand Seiko artisans have added a slightly different tone and a more metallic texture.

Inside Grand Seiko fits its Spring Drive Caliber 9R02 (first seen in 2019). The caliber’s superb eighty-four hour power reserve is the result of a dual spring barrel in which both mainsprings are set in parallel within the single barrel. 

Grand Seiko has set an 18-karat gold plaque on the 38.5mm watch’s lower bridge engraved with the words “Micro Artist.” However, the owner can instead customize it. Price: $79,000 (limited edition of fifty).

Finally, Grand Seiko introduces a Spring Drive jewelry watch inspired by the Brand’s emblematic white lion. The watch’s case and dial gleam with 5.62 carats of diamonds and 1.25 carats of blue sapphires, all set by hand.

The sapphire crystal case back reveals a beautifully finished Caliber 9R01 movement’s one-piece bridge, designed in the image of Mt. Fuji. Price: $260,000. 

A year after squaring its Big Bang Unico, Hublot launches three new versions of the Square Bang Unico in sapphire and ceramic cases, again showcasing the watchmaker’s expertise in working with high-tech materials.

The trio, which includes one Square Bang Unico Sapphire model and two Square Bang Unico Ceramic watches (above), join what Hublot calls its Shaped Collection of square and barrel-shaped watches

For these watches, which Hublot debuts during Watches and Wonders 2023, the watchmaker continues to utilize its emblematic sandwich-like case construction and now well-known Big Bang characteristics such as the six functional H- shaped screws, micro-blasted and polished finishes, exposed movements and long-power reserve calibers.

Hublot’s new Square Bang Unico Sapphire.

Hublot will offer one debut, the Square Bang Unico Sapphire, in a limited run of 250. Its 41mm by 12mm square sapphire case remains fully water resistant to fifty meters, despite the challenges inherent in working with sapphire cases.

Inside the sapphire case (and inside both ceramic debuts) Hublot fits its time-tested HUB1280 Unico automatic chronograph with flyback. For this  model, the sapphire case enhances the view of the movement, allowing unobstructed view of its column-wheel and chronograph gearing. The movement offers a superior seventy-two-hour power reserve.

Hublot places the HUB1280 into its two new Square Bang Unico Ceramic models, which are not limited editions. Offered in 41mm by 12mm white ceramic or black ceramic cases, each watch is fitted with a rubber strap with a titanium deployant buckle clasp.

Hublot notes that while a matching black or white rubber strap comes with these models, its One Click interchangeable system makes it possible to customize either watch by swapping straps.

Prices: $27,000 (black ceramic), $26,200 (white ceramic) and $95,000 (clear sapphire).

Square Bang Unico Diamonds

Hublot at Watches and Wonders 2023 also extended its existing Square Bang Unico collection with four Square Bang Unico Diamonds models.

Each artfully sets diamonds into the bezel and/or adjacent upper and lower case (on Pave models) of the existing square series cased in titanium and Hublot’s own King Gold alloy.

Also new in 2023

In addition to the enhancing its Square Bang Unico collection, Hublot at Watches & Wonders 2023 updated its Big Bang Time Only models with Black Magic and diamond-set steel models.

Hublot’s new Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinsky.

Also look for an expanded Orlinsky collection, which now includes a Classic Fusion Chronograph edition ($14,600 and $18,200 on a titanium bracelet), a Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Texalium Carbon ($127,000), and host of new colors within the hot Classic Fusion Akashi Murakami collection (along with matching NFTs).

One of thirteen Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Black Ceramic Rainbow models. Each is a unique piece.

For Hublot’s the full-on complicated MP series, look for an all-new Big Bang MP-13 Tourbillon Retrograde BiAxial Titanium ($158,000).

The new Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Texalium-Carbon.
The 44mm Big Bang MP-13 is encased entirely in brushed titanium and for the first time brings together two complications—the two-axis tourbillion and the retrograde display.

We’ll feature many of these other 2023 Hublot debuts in future posts as well as within our print editions.    

Oris has teamed with Kermit the Frog to produce Kermit Day, a special edition of its ProPilot X Calibre 400.

The new Oris ProPilot X Kermit Day

As debuted during Watches and Wonders 2023, the new 39mm titanium watch sports a notably bright green dial that echoes the famed amphibian’s own hue. But for added fun Oris tacks on another function: On the first of every month, the date window at 6 o’clock is filled with a Kermit the Frog emoji.

Kermit Day is all about having some fun, according to Oris. “If an Oris watch can make someone’s day better, we’ve done our job,” Oris explains in its description of the watch.

The remainder of the watch retains the existing specifications of the ProPilot X Caliber 400. The watch is an aviation-inspired vehicle that nicely exhibits the Oris Caliber 400, an Oris-built movement with an impressive five-day power reserve and highly anti-magnetic construction.

Oris notes that the Caliber 400 is accurate to -3 to +5 seconds a day (within chronometer certification standards). Its anti-magnetism stems from more than thirty non-ferrous and anti-magnetic parts (including a silicon escape wheel and a silicon anchor).

Oris underscores all its Caliber 400 Series watches with ten-year warranties and ten-year recommended service intervals.

Price: $4,600.

Also New in 2023

Oris enhances the performance of its groundbreaking automatic mechanical altimeter and places it into a new carbon-fiber composite case.

The new Oris ProPilot Altimeter

The new Oris Pro Pilot Altimeter is now thinner and more lightweight than it was in 2014. We’ll have details in a separate post next week.

Doxa thins and slims its SUB 200 C-Graph dive watch series, adding a selection of models with a 42mm diameter (down from the 45mm of the existing series from 2020) and a reduced thickness of 15.85mm. The new series, called SUB 200 C-Graph II, also boasts a new sunburst dial finish, all offered in the collections’s familiar six-colors.

One of six new DOXA SUB C-Graph II models, each available with a rubber strap or ‘beads of rice’ steel bracelet.

Despite its new size, the Doxa vintage-themed series retains its Tri-Compax dial layout, its unidirectional rotating steel bezel and its minute indication highlighted in white SuperLuminova. The White Pearl model (below) features a ceramic bezel.

A close look at the dials of the bright new SUB 200 C-Graph II watches reveals the details of the light-refracting sunburst finish.

Thin brushed lines, created by artisans using metal filament brushes, radiate outward from the center of the dial (like sun rays). The effect serves to illuminates each of the collection’s six dial colors.

Devised for long dive times, the SUB 200 C-Graph II allows up to twelve hours of time to be measured using the stopwatch function.

A sweep center-seconds hand begins its revolutions, when the chronograph is activated, and works in concert with minutes and hours registers.

Doxa fits each watch with an ETA-based automatic three-hand movement offering a power reserve of 56 hours and protected with 200 meters of water resistance. Prices start at $2,850 (see details below).

Specifications: Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph II

Case: 42mm by 46mm by 15.85mm stainless steel, screw-down crown,
sapphire crystal, unidirectional rotating bezel, solid steel back, screw-in.
Water resistance: 200 meters. 

Dial: Sunray-finished, available in the six colors of the collection, hour, minute and counter hands coated with Super-LumiNova. Bezel marker at 12 o’clock coated with white Super-LumiNova, Caribbean & SharkHunter models: Super-LumiNova on all markers, except the timer White Pearl ceramic model: no Super-LumiNova on the bezel.  

Movement: Swiss automatic, 3 hands, chronograph power reserve of approx. 56 hours, frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). DOXA decorations. 

Strap/Bracelet: Stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet, attached by screws for a secure fit, folding clasp with wetsuit extension, embossed “DOXA fish” symbol
or FKM rubber strap, tone-on-tone color-matched with the dial. Buckle featuring the exclusive “DOXA Fish” symbol.  

Prices: Models with stainless steel bezel insert: 

Stainless steel bracelet: $2,890. Rubber strap: $2,850. 

Model with ceramic bezel insert: 

Stainless steel bracelet: $2,990. Rubber strap: $2,950. 

Maurice Lacroix adds new hues to its recently updated Pontos Day Date, enhancing the dial’s color contrasts, and now sells the watch in eco-friendly packaging.

One of three new Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm watches. Each is offered on a bracelet or strap.

The independent Swiss watchmaker recently added newly facetted (and applied) markers and hands to the popular (and affordable) 41mm Day/Date model.

The dial offers clearer contrasts than previous editions, especially with the new raised minute track that clearly delineates the dial indicators. The minute track, no longer along the edge of the dial, sits inside the hour track and creates a new, modern appearance. The track is slightly recessed and is set with clean markings and contrasting hues to enhance visibility.

As the watch’s name indicates, you’ll find a date and a day window, each deeper than you might expect. Maurice Lacroix teams the new dial layout with a choice of three new dial colors: black, silver and anthracite. All three are finished with a sunray motif and silver or golden-toned hands and indexes.

Maurice Lacroix brushes and polishes the stainless case 41mm case, which holds an automatic ML143 Sellita-based caliber, visible via the exhibition caseback. The watchmaker finishes the movement with Côtes de Genève while the rotor features vertical Côtes de Genève and sun brushing.

To attach the new watches to the wrist, Maurice Lacroix provides a choice of a three-row stainless steel bracelet or black leather strap, the latter of which sports the company’s M-logo. And of course you’ll be able to swap straps using the firm’s own Easy Strap Exchange System.

Finally, these newest Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm debuts arrive in new packaging made of recycled ocean-bound waste, echoing the material used to create the full Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide watch series.

Price: Starting at $2,050 (strap) and $2,100 (steel bracelet).