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During Watches and Wonders 2023, IWC revisited its Ingenieur collection by debuting Ingenieur Automatic 40, a new collection of three steel-cased models, while also adding a new titanium version of the watch.

The new IWC Automatic 40 titanium model. Three steel-cases model also debuted at Watches and Wonders.
The back of the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 in titanium.

While we’ve seen titanium versions of the post-1976 Gerald Genta-designed Ingenieur in the past, this year’s debut is an all-new ongoing model that, from early notices, seems bound to be a hit for the Schaffhausen-based watchmaker.

With a name meaning ‘engineer in both French and German, the Ingenieur collection has been where IWC placed its most ‘technical’ designs over the years. IWC launched the collection in 1955 to highlight its first automatic movement protected with a soft-iron inner case for magnetic field protection.

 

This tool-watch focus remains as all the new Ingenieur Automatic 40 references are powered by the IWC-manufactured Caliber 32111, boasting a superior power reserve of 120 hours.

Also, all the new models feature soft-iron inner cases to protect the movements from magnetic fields, and all are water-resistant to 100 meters. 

The latest Ingenieur collection traces its design from the 1970s, more specifically from Gérald Genta’s Ingenieur SL, Reference 1832.

IWC modeled the new collection on the 1970s-era Ingenieur SL Ref. 1832, designed by Gerald Genta.

On each Ingenieur Automatic 40 watch you’ll see five functional, polygonal screws along the bezel to secure the bezel to the case. These echo the Genta design, though on the original model the screws were not always in the same location along the bezel.

 

Here, a permanent pattern for the screws contributes to the case and bezel design while also enhancing the watch’s integrity.

To create its new, distinctive ‘grid’ pattern dial, IWC’s watchmakers stamp the pattern (small lines offset by 90 degrees to each other) into a soft iron blank, and then galvanize it.

The result is a pleasing texture and design that meshes nicely with the entire watch’s technical nature. A new, slightly curved case enhances the model’s wrist friendliness.

For the steel Ingenieur Automatic 40, IWC offers black, silver and aqua dials, while the titanium model is matched with a nice grey dial, notably darker than the silver-dialed steel model.

The titanium watch (Ref. IW328904 ) is also sand-blasted with polished bevels and brushed sides.

 

Its sturdy integrated Grade 5 titanium bracelet with butterfly folding clasp maintains the entire watch’s lightness, which also contributes to the watch’s wrist-friendliness. Titanium’s anti-allergy properties are also a plus.

Price: $11,700 (steel) and $14,600 (titanium).

The new Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Skeleton 6-15 is a skeletonized and colorful example of one of the watchmaker’s hottest-selling dive watches.

The new Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Skeleton 6-15.

Framed with a multi-hued Super Chroma K1 crystal bezel, the watch’s open-work Swiss-made STP 6-15 skeletonized automatic movement is a mechanical wonder, fully visible from front and back.

Zodiac is offering the 40mm steel watch, which echoes the 1953 original Sea Wolf, as a limited-run model. In addition to its rainbow bezel, you’ll find silver and yellow hands and markers with Super-LumiNova, all complemented by Zodiac’s classic five-link stainless steel Jubilee bracelet. The watch is water resistant to 200 meters.

 

“Color has always been a pillar of the Zodiac design,” explains Zodiac creative director, Ryan White. “The Super Chroma bezel was our most daring use of color to date and a nod to our rebellious roots.” 

Price: $1,895.

One year after debuting the world premiere Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, Parmigiani Fleurier this year follows up with another premiere jumping hand watch, the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante.

The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante.

The new watch echoes last year’s GMT by performing a classic timing function with a new, simpler operation. Where that earlier model allowed for a hand-based display of GMT time, the new watch allows the user to check elapsed minutes on-demand via a second minute hand hidden directly under the primary minute hand.

Instead of turning a calibrated bezel (as on a dive watch), the user simply presses a pusher to move the second, gold hour hand to the desired time.

With the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante, it’s the movement’s control of the second minute hand that performs the elapsed time display, not the user’s bezel-read calculation. The elapsed time is indicated when the primary minute hand reaches – and covers – the gold minute hand.

This display can be used for any fine calibration of the minutes over a specific period of time, or for any occasion or event requiring measurement of the minutes count, such as for cooking times or game times.

To use the function, the wearer can move the rose gold hand in either five-minute increments (via the pusher at 8’o’clock) or one-minute increments (via the pusher positioned at 10 o’clock). Once the two hands meet and superimpose, the period of time to be measured will have elapsed.

At any time, the wearer can return the gold hand to its position hidden underneath the rhodium-plated primary minute hand by pressing the crown-integrated pusher, in a similar way to the split-seconds function. 

As on last year’s Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, this new hand-based time counting function is only visible when activated.

The movement that makes these functions possible, new caliber PF 052, is powered by an elegant rose-gold micro-rotor and is fully visible from the back of the 40mm steel case.  

The functionality here is of course paired with the watchmaker’s high-end workmanship and finishing. These include a hand-cut Grain d’Orge guilloché dial in a sand grey color and 18-karat gold hands and markers. As on all Tonda PF models, the knurled bezel is platinum.

The new Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante is a welcome, ingenious addition to Parmigiani Fleurier’s new series of hand-based complication displays.

Price: $30,600. 

Also new in 2023

In addition to the headliner Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante, Parmigiani Fleurier debuts a platinum-cased Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon with a stunning Milano blue dial ($163,700), a premiere all-platinum Tonda PF Microrotor model with time and date only ($92,800), and a trio of perpetual models displaying time using the Islamic, Chinese and Gregorian calendars.

The new Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon.
The new all-platinum Tonda PF Microrotor.

The watchmaker also adds a rose-gold edition of last year’s premiere PF GMT Rattrapante, complete with a rich Grain d’Orge guilloché dial in Milano blue,($65,500) plus a rose-gold edition of its always impressive Tonda PF Split-Seconds Chronograph ($169,100).

A new rose-gold edition of last year’s premiere Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante.
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Split-Seconds Chronograph, now in rose gold.

We’ll have more about the debuts in future posts. 

Bell & Ross pairs a brilliant sun-ray-finished green dial with its third all-gold BR 05 model. The watch joins two equally colorful Bell & Ross debuts during Watches and Wonders 2023.

The new Bell & Ross BR 05 Green Gold.

Green Gold 

While gold cases are still a rarity within the Bell & Ross BR 05 series, this debut makes it clear that the BR 05’s sophisticated rounded-square case and integrated bracelet works just as well in this luxurious guise as it does in its original steel dress.

The dressier satin-brushed 40mm gold case and bracelet plays well with the deep green sunray dial as light reflects from each element to influence the other. Thus we see hints of green along the inner bezel ring and on the gold-coated markers and hands. Bell & Ross applied numerous layers of tinted green vanish atop a sun ray-finished dial plate to obtain the dial’s glimmering effect, which can seem to change hue whenever the light changes.

Bell & Ross coats all the hands (except for the seconds-hands), numerals and indices in C3 SuperLuminova and also polishes the edges around what is largely a satin-finished case. Via the sapphire crystal caseback the wearer can eye the automatic Sellita-based BR-CAL.321 movement sporting a gilded oscillating weight.

As a BR 05 model, the new Green Gold edition highlights it integrated bracelet, who here is satin-brushed gold with polished small links. Still, buyers can opt for an alligator-leather strap—a first for the BR 05 series.

Price: $22,600 on the alligator strap and $34,000 on the gold bracelet. 

GMT Blue

Debuting at Watches and Wonders 2023 alongside the BR 05 Green Gold is this BR 03-93 GMT, now adorned with contemporary blue and grey coloring.

On the dial the blue displays daytime hours and grey indicates night-time hours. Bell & Ross pairs the BR 03-93 GMT Blue with a dressy blue Nappa Soft calf leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching. The watch’s blue steel bezel echoes its glimmering blue sunburst dial. Price: $4,200. 

Bronze Diver in White

Bell & Ross expanded its ongoing bronze collection with the new BR 03-92 Diver White Bronze. The ISO-certified diver series, which currently includes a brown-dialed, bronze model, now adds this brighter edition.

The new Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver White Bronze.

The watch’s opaline silver dial contrasts nicely with the bronze case, especially alongside the red-tinted bronze shades. The unidirectional rotating bezel is also finished with polished bronze and fitted with a brown aluminum ring. A soft iron cage protects against magnetism.

Bell & Ross builds a 42mm case, water-resistant to 300 meters, protected by a screw-down crown and powered by an Sellita-based BR-CAL.302 movement. Available in a limited edition of 999 pieces, the watch is priced at $4,700.

Bulgari focuses on its eight-sided Octo Roma collection for early 2023 as it launches the collection’s first chronograph. In addition, look for three new Bulgari  Octo Roma Automatic dial options and four Octo Roma Tourbillon watches, each with its own technical twist. 

Octo Roma Chronograph

As an early 2023 focus debut, the new Octo Roma Chronograph introduces a new Bulgari movement, Caliber BVL 399, visible through the watch’s clear sapphire back.

The new Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph, here with a blue dial. It’s also offered with a black dial.

Two models are included in the debut, one with a black dial and one in blue. Both feature an eye-catching Clous de Paris, or hobnail, pattern that appears as small pyramids across the dial, here broken only by the three sunburst-pattern chronograph subdials.

Bulgari has been especially careful designing the pushers, which are nicely integrated into the 42mm by 12.4mm steel case. The pushers are only slightly visible, seemingly flowing from the angled lugs directly to the crown protector.

The new Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph also features a screw-in steel crown with a ceramic insert, is water-resistant to 100 meters and offersSuperLumiNova-filled metallic hands, indexes and numerals.

Bulgari attaches the watch to the wrist with a polished and satin-brushed stainless-steel bracelet with a folding clasp and includes an easily interchangeable rubber strap with each watch.

Price: 9,900 euros. 

The new Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic, here with a white dial and rubber strap.

Octo Roma Automatic 

Sporting the same fetching Clous de Paris dial treatment as the new chronograph, the three new automatic models each offer a three-dimensional dial option to the Roma Automatic collection. Differing ambient light levels will subtly alter the character of the dial, though the large 12 and 6 and the long hour markers allow time to be read quickly at any angle. The hands, hour markers and Arabic numerals are enhanced with SuperLumiNova.

Bulgari offers three colors with the new dial pattern: blue, anthracite and white.

This 41mm by 9.1mm steel watch with three hands and date is powered by the existing in-house Caliber BVL 191 movement decorated with Côtes de Genève motif, visible through the clear sapphire back.

Bulgari equips both the Octo Roma Automatic and the Octo Roma Chronograph with a tool-free interchangeable wristband system. Each watch is also water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters. 

Price: 7,900 euros.

 

Four Octo Roma Tourbillon Watches

Two of the Tourbillon models, the Octo Roma Precious Naturalia (165,000 euros) and Precious Tourbillon Lumière (190,000 euros) both feature minerals within their cases or dials.

The Bulgari Octo Roma Precious Naturalia features a slice of tiger’s eye on the caliber and the indexes.

The former includes polished tiger eye on its caliber, mainplate and indexes while then latter glows with diamonds set across a 38mm rose gold case.

The Octo Roma Precious Tourbillon Lumière features a new 38mm case size.

Two Bulgari Octo Roma tourbillon debuts are especially contemporary. One, the 44mm Octo Roma Papillon Tourbillon (130,000 euros) is a black DLC titanium-cased, jumping hour model named in reference to the Daniel Roth precursors of yore. Sporting a very rare central tourbillon, the watch shows the hour through a fixed window at noon, while the minutes are displayed on a semicircle graduated from 0 to 60 and alternately traversed by two diamond-shaped hands.

A sketch of the Bulgari Octo Roma Papillon Tourbillon. Images coming soon.

The second contemporary model is an Octo Roma Striking Tourbillon Sapphire (85,000 euros) that revives an earlier flying tourbillon chiming model, but with a newly refined black DLC titanium and sapphire case. We’ll have more information and images of these two new models in future posts.


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