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The Watches

Maurice Lacroix Engraves a Skeletonized Aikon 

Maurice Lacroix adds to its hot Aikon series with the new Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe, a 39mm steel-cased watch characterized by an intricately engraved case and bracelet displaying a detailed architecture-themed pattern.

The new Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe.

Framing a skeletonized Automatic ML135 automatic movement made in cooperation with Sellita, the case here is rife with lines, triangles, rays and other shapes frequently seen during a walk in any modern metropolis.

The new watch echoes the now-sold-out 2021 Aikon Urban Tribe model, but with added open-work that creates new avenues for light to reflect and refract through the watch.

Similar shapes and textures also line the entire top of the steel bracelet, enhancing the unusual nature of the Urban Tribe design.

Maurice Lacroix has even customized the oscillating weight with sandblasted and sun-brushed decor and has finished the movement itself with circular graining and snailed finishes.

To mimic street lights and building flourishes, Maurice Lacroix facets the watch’s SuperLuminova-coated hands to better reflect light. All this is framed with luminescent indexes and a dark grey flange.

As with all Aikon models, this new Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe style features Maurice Lacroix’s own Easy Strap Exchange System, which means the wearer can quickly swap the bracelet for a strap if desired. 

With this model’s specially designed bracelet, however, I suspect the quick-change system will be very infrequently used.  

Price: $4,250. 

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The Watches

TAG Heuer Launches Carrera Chronosprint with Porsche

TAG Heuer teams with Porsche to launch the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, the latest Carrera model that merges design elements from both brands.

The seventh joint launch since TAG Heuer and Porsche officially partnered in 2021, the new 42mm watch is a vision in silver and red, with red details highlighting references to the 1970s Porsche 911 dashboard design.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche. A rose-gold-cased version is also available.

Beyond the dial accents, TAG Heuer has also built into the new watch a special version of its new TH20 automatic movement, which debuted this past March during Watches and Wonders.

The new reference here, the TH20-08 movement, features a chronograph seconds hand meant to echo Porsche 911’s ability to reach the 100 km/h in just 9.1 seconds.

Here, the central hand accelerates faster than usual at the start of the chronograph activation thanks to a clever use of a two snail-shaped wheels, which also create a decelerating motion for the central hand after sixty seconds. TAG Heuer makes the wheels using the so-called LiGA lithographic etching process.

On the dial, TAG Heuer continues to reference the Porsche 911.

At 6 o’clock for example you’ll find a subdial that directly recalls the area around 50 km/h that was often highlighted to indicate the recommended speed in urban areas.

The red portion of the 9 o’clock subdial is meant to be a reminder of the ‘critical engine limit.’ TAG Heuer opts to place the red line at 6.8 hours, a nice reference to that 6,800 RPM limit. Red lines on the flange recall the Porsche 911’s ability to reach the 100 km/h in just 9.1 seconds, a clear reference to the very first Porsche 911.

Look for a steel and a gold version of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, each featuring the same retro-inspired double glassbox sapphire crystal seen on Carrera debuts earlier this year.

These domed and curved crystals echo similarly domed hesalite crystal designs from the 1970s, but here have been revamped to add a curve that flows over the tachymeter scale and blends into the case.

From the clear caseback TAG Heuer designs a rotor to replicate the famed Porsche three-spoke steering wheel.

TAG Heuer will launch the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche watches with a calfskin leather strap, in brown for the gold edition and in black for the steel edition, each with an embossed number “911” on the strap.

Prices: $9,200 (steel) and $23,550 (rose gold).

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The Watches

Girard-Perregaux Launches Laureato Absolute 8Tech

Girard-Perregaux updates its Laureato Absolute collection with the Laureato Absolute 8Tech, a watch built with an unusual, lightweight 44mm carbon-titanium case. 

The new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute 8Tech.

The watch, presented during Geneva Watch Days, is the newest in the collection that emphasizes high-tech materials to create contemporary models within the original Laureato line. Laureato is the watchmaker’s pioneering luxury collection that in 1975 was among the first to combine an eight-sided steel case with an integrated steel bracelet.

Since Girard-Perregaux debuted its Laureato Absolute collection (in 2019) we’ve seen models built with materials such as metallized sapphire crystal, carbon glass and a rubber alloy. 

To case the new Absolute 8Tech, the watchmaker starts with carbon fibers and combines them with lightweight titanium powder to form extremely thin (0.05mm) layers.

These layers are then superimposed on one another to form ‘stacks’ that are cut into octagons, a process Girard-Perregaux says is an industry first.

After a period of hand-applied finishing, the case takes on a wavy appearance, which looks a bit like those made from Damascus steel.

As a lightweight yet extremely strong watch, the Laureato Absolute 8Tech is a sporty model with a sandwich-type grey dial built atop a layer of Grade 5 titanium, a metal partially visible through several apertures in the upper portion. Each opening serves as an index, and each lies adjacent to a luminescent marking.

Inside Girard-Perregaux fits its own superb automatic Caliber GP03300-1058, which is visible through a smoky sapphire crystal back. Not surprisingly, the movement is very nicely finished with Côtes de Genève, chamfering and straight graining. 

Price: $27,300. 

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The Watches

New Ball Watch ‘Skindiver’ is Stylish and Practical 

While it may be called Skindiver, the Ball Watch EM Skindiver III Beyond is built to standards that allow it to withstand the extreme conditions and rigors that even professional decompression divers will endure.

The new Ball Watch EM Skindiver III Beyond.

It also happens to be well-made and a handsome watch that will appeal to anyone who enjoys a sports watch look – or just swimming in style. 

Inside the 41.5mm x 13.8mm stainless steel case, this Skindiver houses an automatic winding movement beating at 28,800 vph with an 80-hour power reserve and adjusted and tuned to chronometer standards. The Swiss made movement is anti-magnetic and upgraded with the Ball Amortiser system which brings the anti-shock rating to an impressive 5,000Gs.

Encompassing the cyclops-enhanced sapphire crystal over the dial, the unidirectional rotating bezel has embedded self-illuminating tritium tubes and a domed sapphire crystal ring of its own. Tritium tubes are also used on the dial and hands for superb low-light legibility.

The watch has a classic, timeless look that is both stylish and practical. The black dial and stainless-steel case and bracelet give the watch a sporty tool-watch appearance, while the matte dial has a subtle finish visible under magnification that minimizes glare. 

Overall, the Ball Watch EM Skindiver III Beyond is an exceptional dive watch that combines durability, functionality, and style. Whether you are a professional diver or simply someone who enjoys spending time outdoors, this watch is a great choice. Price: $3,699. More info at www.shop.ballwatch.ch.

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On The Wrist

On The Wrist: Enera Samurai Katana Edition 

By Steve Huyton

In the last couple of decades, many exciting materials have filtered into the watch industry. For example, high-end brands such as Richard Mille are experimenting with aerospace-grade alloys and carbon composites. 

However, many consumers are fascinated with bronze, the copper-based alloy that gives the Bronze Age its name. On social media, there are many groups dedicated to bronze watches. Consumers revel in sharing images of watch cases in various stages of oxidization. 

Over the years I’ve reviewed many cool bronze timepieces and am delighted to add this Samurai Katana Edition from Latvia-based Enera Watch to the list.

The Enera Samurai Katana Edition

Last October I co-designed a watch with Enera called the Purple Skull. At that stage, I discussed the possibility of reviewing the Samurai Katana Edition. There is only one in existence and that is in the possession of brand owner Andrey Shishov. 

Very kindly he agreed to ship this exclusive model so I could appreciate the watch in the metal.

Certainly, for a timepiece priced at €2800, it massively exceeded my expectations. With a case measuring 45mm in diameter, it strikes a perfect balance. Compared to other materials like titanium and even steel, bronze is comparably heavy. 

I’m happy to report this piece sits comfortably on the wrist and doesn’t feel overbearing. Ultimately that’s due to the patented ergonomic case, crown and lug design (EneraSaT technology).

As I documented previously (in my ‘Purple Skull’ review) Andrey Shishov is a certified bodyguard and shooting instructor. He is also a member of the EBSA, which is an organization for security professionals. He is also very interested in Japanese military traditions and that inspired the design of the Samurai Katana Edition. 

Highlights include an engraved bezel featuring traditional Japanese elements and symbols, plus a Chochin lantern shape crown. There are also Sakura flowers on the metallic bronze dial (that symbolize the changeability of life) and Samurai sword shape hour and minute hands. Overall the composition is highly effective and the quality first rate.

Beneath the stylish façade lies a Swiss-made self-winding movement sourced from ETA. The Calibre 2824-2 comprises 25 jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. This premium mechanism is visibly showcased via the sapphire crystal exhibition case back. 

Functionally the Samurai Katana Edition features hours, minutes, seconds and date indication. The watch is water resistant to a depth of thirty meters to make it splash proof and  not for diving, and it has a power reserve of approximately forty hours. As a perfect finale, the timepiece is presented on a stingray skin strap that is widely used to make the handle of the katana sword.

Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews.

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