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Only Watch 2023 Favorites: Chopard

 

We continue to highlight a few of our favorite watches from among the more than sixty watchmakers that have created timepieces for the Only Watch charity auction, which commences Sunday, November 5, in Geneva. Christie’s will auction these incredible one-of-a-kind watches to raise funds that benefit research in the battle against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

While you may have seen a few of the watches set for auction earlier this year when Only Watch announced them, we thought you’d enjoy seeing many of these impressive designs again just ahead of the event.

The watches are currently touring the globe. After concluding their U.S. visit at Christie’s in New York on September 17, the tour will visit Monaco next, followed by stops in Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore, Dubai and back in Geneva. See the Only Watch website for tour dates and details.

In this post we highlight the entry from Chopard, The L.U.C 1860 Only Watch Edition featuring an ice green-toned solid white gold guilloché dial. The watch is essentially a reissue of the very first L.U.C timepiece from 1997, the L.U.C 1860.

The watch’s 36.5mm case is made of Chopard’s own Lucent Steel while the movement inside is Chopard’s superb chronometer-certified L.U.C Caliber 96.40-L. The movement is wound by a gold micro-rotor and equipped with the two barrels that contribute to its strong 65-hour power reserve.

Chopard explains that it chose the dial color here to “evoke the beauty of green icebergs, which are found exclusively in the Antarctic. Icebergs are the real celebrities of polar regions and are mostly white or blue in color. However, like an artist, Nature is capable of producing splendid green icebergs that scientists sometimes call “jade bergs”. This color simultaneously symbolizes the melting of glaciers, thus illustrating major environmental challenges and endowing this creation with distinctive symbolic value.”

The The L.U.C 1860 Only Watch Edition has also earned the Geneva Seal, a rare feat for a steel-cased watch. The Seal, or Poinçon de Genève, guarantees the quality and smooth functioning of watches assembled in Geneva.

Estimate: CHF  25,000 – CHF 35,000.

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The Watches

TAG Heuer Introduces Monaco Chronograph Night Driver 

TAG Heuer brightens up the dial of its legendary Monaco with the new Monaco Chronograph Night Driver, a 600-piece limited-edition titanium-cased Monaco with a fully luminescent dial.

The new TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Night Driver.

The watchmaker takes full advantage of the Monaco’s two-piece dial construction to create an impressive light show. Designers have added dark gray SuperLuminova to the circle at the center of the dial in order to contrast with the bright hour dots and the blue SuperLuminova hour, minute, and chronograph seconds hand. The dial even incudes brightened minute/seconds hash-marks.

TAG Heuer notes that it was inspired by the midnight blue, charcoal grey and matte black dials of vintage Monacos when designing this new model.

The outside portion of the dial becomes vivid blue at night as the black-lacquered indexes mark the hours. That same blue appears within the chronograph registers, again contrasting with the black minute and hour marks and their hands.

TAG Heuer adds that the wearer can expect the Monaco Chronograph Night Driver dial to retain its luminescence for three hours after being fully charged. 

Also new here is the use of titanium for a Monaco chronograph case. TAG Heuer coats the titanium in black DLC (diamond-like carbon) and finishes its nicely with a fine-brushed and polished finish.

Inside you’ll find TAG Heuer’s in-house Heuer 02 movement with a visible blued column wheel and an impressive eighty hours of power reserve. The watch’s sapphire caseback opens up a view of the blue printing on the black rotor and exhibits the blue column wheel.

TAG Heuer offers the Monaco Chronograph Night Driver Limited Edition as a limited edition of 600, each priced at $9,550.

 
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The Watches

Ulysse Nardin Dresses Freak X in Khaki 

Ulysse Nardin gives its Freak X a layer of military garb with the Freak [X OPS], which boasts a new khaki green carbon fiber case covering and a matching fabric strap.

The new Ulysse Nardin Freak [X OPS], pictured with khaki fabric strap.
The new hue and material are inspired by the irregular patterns of Damascus and nicely complement the Freak [X OPS]’s 43mm black titanium case, bezel and crown. A model with a black strap is also available.

As you might recall, the first series of Freak X models in 2019 were aimed at a new generation of Freak collectors with its somewhat simplified case and the addition of a crown to the formerly crown-free Freak. Ulysse Nardin refers to that original Freak X as “the easy-going Freak.”

Yet despite its pared down nature, the Freak X retained all the Freak’s primary characteristics, including movement bridges that double as hands.

With no dial, the watch’s one-hour orbital carousel tourbillon becomes the minute hand, and the hour hand is a pointer set on a rotating disc that sits under the movement.

Here, Ulysse Nardin coats the hour and minute indicators and hour markers in a matching khaki green SuperLuminova that glows green in low-light conditions. 

Ulysse Nardin has built the new Freak [X OPS] by combining that original Freak X design with the case covers, or flanks, that echo those found the 2020 Freak X Magma. But instead of the patterned red epoxy resin found on that model, this watch is created from carbon fiber and green epoxy resin. With the swirling resin mixture, each case will look marginally different.

Inside Ulysse Nardin fits its automatic UN-230 movement, itself a hybrid of the bedrock UN-118 and the high-tech UN-250 found in the Freak Vision. The watch is water-resistant to 50 meters. (See additional specifications below).

Price: $33,800.

 

Specifications: Ulysse Nardin Freak [X OPS]

(2303-270-2A-KAKI/0A (black strap) 2303-270-2A-KAKI/0B (green strap))


Movement and Functions: Caliber UN-230 Manufacture automatic, flying carousel movement rotating around its own axis, balance wheel and escapement in silicon, oversized oscillator in silicon, black movement with indexes and bridges in khaki green Super-LumiNova, oscillations at 21,600 vph. Power reserve is 72 hours. 

Case:  43mm by 13.38mm black DLC titanium case and bezel, black DLC titanium caseback with transparent sapphire opening, khaki green carbon flanks in ‘Magma’, an original composite, blending black carbon fibers and green epoxy resin.

Strap: Khaki green fabric or black fabric strap (recycled fishing net), hook and loop fastener. 

Price: $33,800.

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The Watches

Balmont Introduces Itself with Adventure Watches 

Balmont, a new France-based maker of affordable adventure watches, hits the road with two impressive models built with solid 40mm steel cases and plenty of panache.

Balmont’s BDX debut models.

With four different dial options, the watchmaker’s BDX series offers somewhat dressy dials that nonetheless front an automatic watch designed to confront darkness, heavy rain and multiple shocks.

 

Balmont fits each watch with an automatic Soprod P024 caliber tested to -7/+7 seconds per day and offering a 38-hour power reserve.

Framed with a stainless steel case water resistant to a full 200 meters, and capped with a large screw-down crown, the BDX offers a generous application of luminous material on the dial’s hands and markers, all protected by a sapphire crystal and a clear sapphire caseback.

 

And to underscore its adventure-focused mission, Balmont provides a second strap (nylon) with each watch, which arrives on a leather strap.

Balmont offers its BDX with a choice of a ceramic-coated black, silver, slate or white dial, each priced at $715.

Limited Model

In addition to its ongoing BDX series, Balmont supercharges its debuts the LAX001, a special model offered as a limited edition of 100 pieces. As its name implies (LAX is the Los Angeles airport code) the Balmont LAX001 features a classic so-called California dial that mixes Arabic and Roman markers, all of which glow brightly with SuperLumiNova BGW9 and C3.

The LAX001 retains the same technical specifications as the BDX, but comes on a cognac-colored Italian suede strap to more closely align with its California dive-model references. The supplied second strap is black nylon.

The watch’s dial is also sportier than the dial of the BDX with railroad track markers just inside the bezel and a glowing marker triangle rather than the brand’s logo at 12 o’clock.

Interestingly, the limited edition LAX001 also retains the same $715 price tag as the ongoing BDX model. I suspect the watch will quickly sell out after its September release date.

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The Watches

Alpina Updates a Heritage Carrée Automatic 

Alpina launches a new version of its retro-styled Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years, now with a modern automatic movement instead the vintage caliber used in the model launched earlier this year. 

You might recall that in June the Geneva-based watchmaker launched a celebratory Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years outfitted with an authentic hand-wound Calibre 490 from 1938.

Now, Alpina is replicating the same watch’s retro-style with two unlimited models of the watch, one of which (the silver-dialed model) will be sold in the U.S. The second model with a black dial is available internationally outside the U.S.   

Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years. The silver-dialed model pictured above is available in the U.S.

The watch still uses a retro-sized cased, though at 32.5mm by 39mm, it’s still three millimeters larger than the initial model from June. The new watch’s dial also features a 1930s-style ‘sector’ dial with period Arabic numerals, dauphine hands, square small seconds sub-dial and the original Alpina logo.

Inside Alpina offers its AL-530 caliber, an automatic Sellita-based movement. Other contemporary updates include a domed sapphire crystal and a see-through back. Price: $1,595. 

Specifications: Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years 

(Ref. AL-530SAC3C6)

Movement: AL-530 caliber, automatic, 38-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph. 

Case: Polished 32.50mm x 39mm x 9.71mm stainless steel two-part with anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 30 meters, engraved and see-through screwed case-back. 

Dial: Silver with matte finishing, black printed Arabic numerals and black graduation, black hour and minute hands, small second counter at 6 o’clock with black hand.  

Strap: Light brown Ostrich leather strap with off-white stitching and pin buckle.

Price: $1,595.  

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