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At the end of the year, it’s time to note our favorite 2022 debut watches. Through the end of the week, we’ll re-acquaint you with our top timekeepers of the year.

Below is the third installment of our four-day review of our favorites, in no particular order.

 

Zenith: Gold Chronomaster Sport

The second Zenith that makes our favorites list this year is a gold edition of its very hot Chronomaster Sport, which has become a top seller for the brand since its introduction last year. Zenith now offers the Chronomaster Sport in rose gold (including the bracelet and engraved bezel with 1/10th of a second scale.)

Available with either a black or white dial with the signature El Primero three-color counters, golden hands and applied markers. Price: $38,200.

 

TAG Heuer: Carrera Red Dial Limited Edition

TAG Heuer heated up its Carrera collection in 2022 with the new TAG Heuer Carrera Red Dial Limited Edition, a crimson-red-dialed Carrera that echoes the watchmaker’s long-standing role as a watch of choice among professional race car drivers.   

Seen infrequently within the full TAG Heuer collection today (with the exception of a few Formula 1 models and this stunning bronze-cased Autavia watch), red has long been a favorite accent color for the watchmaker. A red tachymeter scale dominated many Carrera models in the 1960s. Similarly, we’ve also seen bright red hands for decades on the Heuer Monaco. More recently, a few of you might recall the 2010 remake of the stunning 1974 Heuer Silverstone.

This newest red-dialed beauty features a brushed sunray dial with nicely snailed chronograph counters that allow light to reflect and refract. 

Inside, TAG Heuer places its excellent Calibre Heuer 02, which boasts eighty hours of power reserve, a (red-tinted) column-wheel and special engraving that extol the limited nature of this new watch, which TAG Heuer is offering as a limited edition of 600 pieces. Price:$6,750.

 

Detroit Watch: M1 Sport Chrono Exhibition 24 H Legends 98 

Detroit Watch Company expanded ts hot-selling M1-Woodward Sport Chrono Exhibition collection with racing livery with two new models emblazoned with number 98 on the dial.  

The number references the 1966 winning GT40 at Daytona driven by Ken Miles and Lloyd Ruby as well as the Cobra Daytona coupe designed by the legendary American designer Peter Brock.

The new line retains the M1 Sport Chrono Exhibition collection’s steel-cased design, but now features the new 98 dial with either red or blue accents on tachymeter internal bezel. Inside the brushed and polished 42mm case you’ll find an ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph with a customized Detroit Watch decoration visible through a sapphire back. 

Prices: $2,200, $2,350 (black DLC edition)

 

Franck Muller: Colorado Grand Vanguard

Franck Muller debuts four new colorful Vanguard watches to commemorate the 1,000-mile vintage car rally known as The Colorado Grand. 

As the event’s exclusive watch sponsor, Franck Muller designed each model to represent an emblematic automobile: pine green for the Bentley; fire red for the Ferrari; “French blue” for the Bugatti; and stunning silver for the Mercedes. Each is also created using different case material. These are: polished steel (red dial), rose gold (blue dial), titanium (green dial) and micro-blasted steel (silver dial).

The four models will be made in limited editions of thirty-three to honor the 33rd running of the Colorado Grand. Prices: $23,500 (rose gold case), $16,500 (micro-blasted steel case), $14,500 (titanium and polished steel case). 

 

Greubel Forsey: GMT Balancier Convexe

Greubel Forsey moves its titanium globe to the center of its new GMT Balancier Convexe, altering its long-standing dial-borne universe in the process. 

The globe, an eye-catching component of the watchmaker’s GMT, GMT Earth, GMT Quadruple Tourbillon and GMT Sport, appears at the heart of the 46.5mm titanium watch. In those earlier GMT models, the globe rotated along the edge of the case.

GMT Balancier Convexe

The new GMT Balancier Convexe joins six existing models within the independent watchmaker’s relatively new Convexe collection.  

The centrally located globe isn’t the only premiere here. For the first time within a GMT model, the watchmaker’s signature 30-degree inclined balance wheel vibrates nearby, held by a flat black-polished and barrel-polished steel balance wheel bridge on polished steel pillars. Adjacent to this, note the small seconds, displayed with a blue gold hand.

Where the dial-side of the new watch is impressively redesigned, the back of the watch retains Greubel Forsey’s signature disc with 24 time zones indicating the UTC time. The only variation here is a minor one:  the UTC of Paris has been replaced by La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, home for Greubel Forsey.

All this drama is framed by Greubel Forsey’s unusual convex case, with its curved geometry and undulating lines that, along the top, are higher on the sides and lower at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions. The case itself is also asymmetric, with a diameter of 46.5mm around the bezel and 43.5mm around the case band. This means it nicely hugs the curve of the wrist.

Greubel Forsey will make sixty-six GMT Balancier Convexe timepieces at the rate of twenty-two per year between 2022 and 2024. Each is available on either a titanium bracelet or a textured rubber strap. Price: CHF 350,000.

 

Grand Seiko: GMT Sports Models 

Grand Seiko in 2022 added two new GMT models to its Sports Collections, and both are powered by the decorated and hyper-precise quartz Caliber 9F86.

The duo, Grand Seiko models SBGN027 and SBGN029, are each built within a 39mm steel case, slightly smaller than most models in the collection.

One model, SBGN029 features a blue sunray dial with red accents—-most notably a red GMT hand to indicate a second time zone. The other debut, SBGN027 features a black sunray dial with monochromatic highlights. 

Using the clearly differentiated GMT hand, the wearer of either model can quickly note the second time of choice using the 24-hour dial ring, which is divided into two 12-hour sections for AM and PM.

Both watches offer hands and dial indexes with generous Lumibrite coating for superior visibility in darker conditions. In addition, each watch is rated to 100 meters of water resistance and features a screw-down crown and a dual-curve sapphire crystal.

Grand Seiko supplies both models with its well-known three-row steel bracelet with high-end Zaratsu-polished surfaces .

Grand Seiko collectors are familiar with Caliber 9F series, which the watchmaker created as the “ultimate quartz watch.” This Caliber 9F86 provides extremely high accuracy, with a rating of +/-10 seconds a year. And critically for a travel watch, the movement allows the wearer to adjust the hour hand without interrupting the timekeeping. 

Price: $3,300.

 

Maurice Lacroix: Pontos S Chronograph 

Maurice Lacroix unveiled the latest version of its popular Pontos Chronograph with the new  Pontos S Chronograph, a sporty-elegant duo with dominant chronograph sub-dials along the vertical axis and a slim, almost retro ceramic tachymeter bezel. 

With two new sandblasted white or dark blue dials, the new look is somewhat sportier than earlier editions but retains the collection’s touch of class.

You’ll now find a day-date indicator at 3 o’clock rather than the date at 6 o’clock on this new Pontos chronograph, while the small seconds sub-dial is still at 9 o’clock. 

However, note the almost panda-like contrast with the newly styled chronograph indicators and the very sharp dial finishing here. Maurice Lacroix has purposefully endowed both with sandblasted sub-dial centers framed by snailed measuring tracks. A choice of faceted hour markers adds a retro feel to the dial as well.

Maurice Lacroix retains the Pontos collection’s existing design elements, namely its elongated pushers, double-stepped lugs, and a satin-brushed and polished 43mm steel case.  On the back the wearer can spy the back of the ETA-based automatic ML112 chronograph caliber, decorated with a combination of Côtes de Genève, perlage and sun-brush finishes. 

The watchmaker is supplying the new Pontos S Chronograph with a color-coordinated M-branded nylon strap lined with nubuck leather. The watch is also available with a three-row steel bracelet. Owners can also swap between the strap or bracelet without the need for tools.

Prices: $3,250 (silver-white or dark blue sandblasted dial with stainless steel bracelet.

$3,100 (nylon strap) or $3,380 (special package with steel bracelet & nylon strap).

 

Bell & Ross honors Patrouille de France pilots with a new analog-digital watch that delivers optimal readability and a range of cockpit-friendly functions.

The new Bell & Ross BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France.

In addition to the time, the new BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France displays a 1/100th-of-a-second chronograph with intermediate and additional time, a countdown timer, an alarm, the date and a second time zone. 

The new watch is the third BR-03 model Bell & Ross has designed for the elite French aerobatic pilots, who fly in close formation at speeds of between 300 and 800 km/h, thrilling crowds across France.

Bell & Ross started its partnership with the team in 2008 when the Air Force requested that Bell & Ross design a BR 03 Type A instrument for fighter pilots. Last year, Bell & Ross formalized the partnership and debuted the BR-03 94 Patrouille de France. 

The latest model also utilizes the Bell & Ross 42mm square BR 03 case in steel and sports a matte blue dial and the Patrouille de France logo.

The watch’s quartz-powered caliber allows for a full thirty months of battery life. Hours and minutes are displayed with conventional hands, while the seconds and chronograph times are displayed on a digital screen. The window at the top of the dial shows the chosen function and the window at the bottom of the dial digitally displays the measurement. The pilot chooses the function by pressing the crown.

Bell & Ross will make 100 BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France watches and will give one watch to each pilot in the unit.

Price: $4,400. 

Specifications: Bell & Ross BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France

Movement: BR-CAL.103, a multi-function quartz instrument watch with analogue-digital display.

Functions: Permanent analog display: Hours Minutes. Digital display activation/deactivation: 1/100 chronograph and lap times, countdown, second time zone, alarm, perpetual calendar. Choice of languages FR, EN, ES, DE. 

Case: 42mm by 11.25mm satin-polished steel. Bi-directional rotating steel bezel with 60 graduations. Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, 100-meters of water resistance.

Dial: Matte blue paint, Patrouille de France logo at 9 o’clock. White transfer numerals and indexes with white SuperLuminova coating. 

Strap: Blue rubber with Patrouille de France engraved logo at 12 o’clock and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric. Satin-polished steel pin buckle. 

Price: $4,400. 

With the new Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon, Zenith extends the reach of one of its most technically complex movements, El Primero Caliber 9020, by placing it into two ongoing Defy Extreme designs.

The new Zenith Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon, here in a carbon case with rose gold.

The 1/100th-of-a-second high-frequency chronograph movement, with a seconds hand that races around the dial once per second, is already among the watchmaker’s defining technical achievements.

The new Zenith Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon, here in titanium, is now an ongoing Defy Extreme model.

Found previously powering special limited editions, the caliber utilizes two independent tourbillons, each regulating a different function. One tourbillon completes its rotation in sixty seconds to regulate the time display while the second tourbillon rotates in just five seconds to regulate a high-frequency chronograph. 

The new watch is now most complicated model in the Zenith Defy collection. And true to Defy’s sporty character, the new model is set in a hefty 45mm case and will be offered with two different executions.

One version features a titanium case with a mix of satin-brushed, polished and matte surfaces (including the titanium bracelet). The second model, offered on a black rubber strap, is cased in carbon fiber with sandblasted matte rose gold twelve-sided bezel and pusher protectors. Both offer open-work dials to better display the dual tourbillons and their star-shaped cages.

Zenith’s El Primero Caliber 9020, front view.

Zenith has finished the watch’s El Primero 9020 movement to emphasize its decidedly contemporary nature.

El Primero Caliber 9020, rear view.

Artisans have satin-brushed its bridges and coated them with a layer of black PVD. The finishing touch is a rose gold highlight meant to expose the various geometric shapes throughout the caliber.

Zenith is offering the new Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon as an ongoing model, in both versions, at retailers, Zenith boutiques and online Zenith boutiques.

Prices: $79,700 (carbon case, rose gold) and $69,600 (brushed titanium). 

 

Specifications: Zenith Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon 

(Reference: 12.9100.9020/78.I200, black carbon and rose gold) 

Movement: El Primero 9020, COSC-certified chronometer with 50 hours power reserve for the watch / 50 min for the chronograph. 

Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. Double Tourbillon. 1 escapement for the Watch (36,000 VpH / 5 Hz – cage makes a turn in 60 second). 1 escapement for the Chronograph (360,000 VpH / 50 Hz – cage makes a turn in 5 second). 1/100th of a second Chronograph:  

– Central chronograph hand that makes one turn each second

– 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock

– 60-second counter at 6 o’clock

– Chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock

Special oscillating weight with satined finishings

Case: 45mm black carbon & 18-karat rose gold, water-resistance to 200 meters. 

Dial: Openworked, with gold-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 markers and hands.

Strap & Buckle: Black Rubber with micro-blasted titanium triple folding clasp.

Price: $79,700. 

 

Specifications: Zenith Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon 

(Reference: 95.9100.9020/78.I001, in titanium) 

Movement: El Primero 9020, COSC-certified chronometer with 50 hours power reserve for the watch / 50 min for the chronograph.

Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. Double Tourbillon. 1 escapement for the Watch (36,000 VpH / 5 Hz – cage makes a turn in 60 second). 1 escapement for the Chronograph (360,000 VpH / 50 Hz – cage makes a turn in 5 second). 1/100th of a second Chronograph:  

– Central chronograph hand that makes one turn each second

– 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock

– 60-second counter at 6 o’clock

– Chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock

Special oscillating weight with satined finishings

Case: 45mm brushed titanium, water-resistance to 200 meters.

Dial: Openworked, with gold-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 markers and hands.

Bracelet & Buckle: Titanium bracelet with titanium folding clasp.

Price: $69,600. 

Nomos adds a stylistic flourish to its Ludwig Neomatik 41 with a display that shows the date in Roman numerals.

The Nomos Ludwig Neomatik 41 Date features an unusual Roman numeral date window.

While existing Ludwig models feature a date window with standard Arabic numerals at the 4 o’clock position, the new Ludwig Neomatik 41 Date  offers this second, equally elegant, option that also just happens to perfectly match the Roman markers around the dial.

While I’m not aware of other Roman numeral date displays, I suspect they exist. And while it’s unusual to use Roman date language, Nomos has moved the date window itself to the more traditional 3 o’clock position on the dial. The choice by Nomos here speaks to its dedication to providing stylish options for its fans.

Nomos can offer this option thanks to its use of the DUW 6101 proprietary movement that seamlessly powers a date ring while also remaining fairly flat (7.7mm thick) and elegant.

The Nomos automatic caliber DUW 6101 with date function is just 3.6 millimeters thick.

Indeed, Nomos utilizes the same movement throughout its collections when novel date displays are required, such as on its Autobahn, or when a date ring features into the designs, such as on the Nomos Tangente Update and Metro Update.

Assembly of the patented date mechanism on the DUW 6101 caliber.

The automatic movement is visible through the sapphire back of the 40.5mm steel watch. The view exposes the movement’s Glashütte three-quarter plate finished with Glashütte ribbing, tempered blue screws and perlage on the mainplate.

The Nomos Ludwig Neomatik 41 Date arrives on a black Horween leather strap equipped with a stainless steel clasp.

Price: $4,000.

Ulysse Nardin will give away one of its Diver Lemon Shark watches to a lucky collector who enters its new Shark Hero sweepstakes. Teaming with the marine science organization OCEARCH, the watchmaker aims to raise funds for research that will allow scientists to better understand the movement and habits of sharks in order to help maintain their ecosystem.

The Ulysse Nardin Lemon Shark Diver.

With a goal of raising $100,000 for OCEARCH, Ulysse Nardin will enter each collector who submits a $100 donation into the Shark Hero Sweepstakes to win a Ulysse Nardin Lemon Shark Watch. With each additional $100 donation, the donor will earn another entry into the Sweepstakes. 

The Diver Lemon Shark is a shark-themed version of the Ulysse Nardin Diver 42mm. Ulysse Nardin launched it last year in honor of World’s Ocean Day and to celebrate Ulysse Nardin’s partners, shark experts, divers, universities, and non-profits. The watch features a black dial with a yellow lemon shark ‘signature’, a stamp of three lemon sharks on the back and a black strap made from recycled fishing nets.

In addition to the watch, winners will also win a one-of-a-kind plaque that was featured on the OCEARCH shark lift and signed by the OCEARCH crew and an exclusive shark buoy used on OCEARCH’s past expeditions.

To donate to OCEARCH and secure an entry into the Sweepstakes, click here.