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Bell & Ross Adds Smaller BR 03 Models

Bell & Ross introduces a new size to its BR 03 ‘circle-within-a square’ series, adding six models with a 41mm square case size.

Among the debuts is this model with an attractive copper dial, achieved through a galvanization process and enhanced by engraved black numerals and indexes.

Smaller by 1mm, watches in the new series also include a slimmer strap, narrower lug distance (from 4.5mm to 4.0mm) and a new automatic movement, BR-CAL.302, a Sellita-based caliber with an extended power reserve of fifty-four hours. All remain water resistant to 100 meters.

For the first time Bell & Ross combines a matte black ceramic case with a khaki dial on this new BR 03 Military Ceramic.

“With the new BR03, we modified the proportions of the collection by respecting its canons,” explains Bruno Belamich, Bell & Ross’ co-founder and Creative Director. “Our goal was to preserve the identity that has made the BR03 so successful, while adapting it to the new times and maintaining its allure.”

Look for three new models in a black case: Black Matte, Phantom and Heritage, as well as three new versions in polished steel – Black Steel, Blue Steel and Golden Heritage.

The latter feature truly retro black, blue and brown dials. Among the debuts is a models sporting a distinctive new copper dial model and another in a sharp-looking khaki-colored ceramic case.

Prices: $3,600 to $4,300.

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The Watches

TAG Heuer Launches Carrera Chronosprint with Porsche

TAG Heuer teams with Porsche to launch the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, the latest Carrera model that merges design elements from both brands.

The seventh joint launch since TAG Heuer and Porsche officially partnered in 2021, the new 42mm watch is a vision in silver and red, with red details highlighting references to the 1970s Porsche 911 dashboard design.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche. A rose-gold-cased version is also available.

Beyond the dial accents, TAG Heuer has also built into the new watch a special version of its new TH20 automatic movement, which debuted this past March during Watches and Wonders.

The new reference here, the TH20-08 movement, features a chronograph seconds hand meant to echo Porsche 911’s ability to reach the 100 km/h in just 9.1 seconds.

Here, the central hand accelerates faster than usual at the start of the chronograph activation thanks to a clever use of a two snail-shaped wheels, which also create a decelerating motion for the central hand after sixty seconds. TAG Heuer makes the wheels using the so-called LiGA lithographic etching process.

On the dial, TAG Heuer continues to reference the Porsche 911.

At 6 o’clock for example you’ll find a subdial that directly recalls the area around 50 km/h that was often highlighted to indicate the recommended speed in urban areas.

The red portion of the 9 o’clock subdial is meant to be a reminder of the ‘critical engine limit.’ TAG Heuer opts to place the red line at 6.8 hours, a nice reference to that 6,800 RPM limit. Red lines on the flange recall the Porsche 911’s ability to reach the 100 km/h in just 9.1 seconds, a clear reference to the very first Porsche 911.

Look for a steel and a gold version of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, each featuring the same retro-inspired double glassbox sapphire crystal seen on Carrera debuts earlier this year.

These domed and curved crystals echo similarly domed hesalite crystal designs from the 1970s, but here have been revamped to add a curve that flows over the tachymeter scale and blends into the case.

From the clear caseback TAG Heuer designs a rotor to replicate the famed Porsche three-spoke steering wheel.

TAG Heuer will launch the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche watches with a calfskin leather strap, in brown for the gold edition and in black for the steel edition, each with an embossed number “911” on the strap.

Prices: $9,200 (steel) and $23,550 (rose gold).

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American Brands

A Black Tie Timex

By Gary Girdvainis

Giorgio Galli’s CV includes over thirty years in the watch industry with designs and collaborations with numerous brands we all recognize. Today, as the creative director at Timex, Galli has launched a design that is so pure and elegant that it demands our attention.

The new Timex Giorgio Galli S2.

The eponymous release is called the GG(Giorgio Galli) S2 and it takes the Timex brand into new realms of movements, price-points, and unfettered design. 

The black dial with the notched metal ring is subtly elegant without the clamor of ostentation or affectation. Upon closer inspection, the attention to detail comes to light in the multi-faceted hour and minute hands.

To my eye the flat hands typical of so many affordable watches falls flat on me. When beveled, watch hands capture and reflect light, not only making the watches easier to read on a black background, but also adding a depth and panache to any watch in which they are installed.

Galli also made the right choice to eschew the date function on this watch. No-doubt the purity of this design would have been deflated by any distractions on this austere dial.

From the back you’ll note that rather than a threaded case-back Galli opted for a back held in place with six-screws. While it is more difficult to get higher levels of water resistance in this type of construction, it does look good to the eye and has the advantage of always having the case back oriented in the vertical position. Still, the GGS2 is water resistant to 50 meters, which is more than sufficient for a dress watch of this type.

The GGS2 also represents a new price point for Timex and is effectively double the cost of the nearest Timex I could find on the company’s website. Having said that, there is a lot of watch for the money embedded in this design.

The Swiss-made watch houses a Sellita SW 200 automatic winding mechanical movement, combines injection molded steel and titanium into the perfectly proportioned 38mm case, and features flat sapphire crystals front and back. Add to that a solid steel deployant buckle and a chemical resistant nitrile rubber strap and you end up with a lot of watch for $975. 

To Timex and Giorgio Galli I say bravo for creating the Black Tie(mex), a watch retailing for under $1,000 that would look right at home at any black tie affair.

Giorgio Galli wearing the watch he designed.
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The Watches

Oris Backs Conservation With New Aquis  

Oris underscores its collaboration with the European environmental conservation organization Common Wadden Sea Secretariat with the Dat Watt Limited Edition II, a green-dialed Aquis dive watch.

The new Oris Dat Watt Limited Edition II.

The watch is the second Oris has created to emphasize its backing of the group’s conservation work for the Wadden Sea, a UNESCO World Heritage Site along the coast of Denmark, Germany and the Netherlands. 

Inspired by the shimmering green hue of the Wadden Sea’s salt marshes, Oris added a light green dial to the Aquis model.

As a true dive watch, the 43.5mm steel-cased Dat Watt Limited Edition II is water-resistant to 300 meters and features a uni-directional rotating bezel with a minutes scale on a grey tungsten bezel insert. In addition, the dive specs also include a screw-down security crown with a protector, and luminous hands and indexes.

Oris also equips each watch with a with a blue rubber strap and a three-link stainless steel metal bracelet. Both are set with a safety clasp and an extension system that allows the watch to be easily worn over a wetsuit.

Oris fits the watch with its automatic Sellita-based Caliber 743. The movement powers the hands, which includes a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and an unusual circular date function.

The dial hue is inspired by color of salt marshes. Note the unusual circular calendar.

The independent watchmaker is offering 2,009 pieces of the new Oris Dat Watt Limited Edition II. The limited-edition figure signifies the year the Wadden Sea was awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status.

Price: $3,200. 

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The Watches

Bell & Ross Add a Green Chrono to BR 05

Bell & Ross mixes nature and architecture with the new BR 05 Chrono Green Steel, the latest model in its BR 05 series of ‘rounded square’ designs.

The new Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono Green Steel.

While we saw a similar sun-ray green dial from Bell & Ross earlier this year when the watchmaker introduced a gold-cased, three-hand model (BR 05 Green Gold), this newer model appears even more contemporary, especially as a steel chronograph.

Steel, after all, shines in any urban area, and with the geometric, multi-level BR 05 case and fully integrated bracelet, the watch’s so-called ‘urban spirit’ is evident.

“The case and strap are one,” notes Bell & Ross Creative Director Bruno Belamich. “This design is a nod to a type of watch that first appeared in the 1970s. Transposed into the Bell & Ross identity, we were able to achieve a result that is at once clear, modern and graphic.”

The new BR 05 Chrono Green Steel joins a wide range of Bell & Ross chronographs, many of which are also powered by the Sellita-based self-winding BR-CAL.326 movement.

Bell & Ross fits an eye-catching automotive-inspired 360-degree rotor to the movement, which is visible through a sapphire caseback. 

Price: $6,200 (rubber strap) and $6,700 (steel bracelet). 

 

Specifications: Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono Green Steel 

Movement: Automatic Caliber BR-CAL.326 (Sellita base) powering  hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock and date. Chronograph: 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, central chronograph seconds.

Case: 42mm by 14.25mm satin-polished steel. Screw-down crown. Crown guard. Sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back with 360° oscillating weight. Water-resistance to 100 meters.

Dial: Green sunray with applique indices filled with SuperLuminova. Satin-finished applique numerals. Metal skeletonized SuperLuminova-filled hour and minute hands. 

Strap: Green rubber or satin-polished steel with satin-polished steel folding buckle. 

Price: $6,200 (rubber strap) and $6,700 (steel bracelet).

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