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Watch of the Day

Louis Moinet Memoris Red Eclipse

Now boasting a fully hand-engraved rose gold case, this newer interpretation of Louis Moinet’s inventive chronograph features a lunar eclipse theme that wonderfully offsets the dominant blue of the astral micro painting on the dial.

While the theme is new, the limited edition Louis Moinet Memoris Red Eclipse still displays the same distinctive characteristic as the earlier models: the chronograph is the primary focus of the timepiece. A single button actuates the column-wheel-controlled chronograph system and recalls the Compteur de Tierces created by Louis Moinet himself in 1816 – the first authenticated chronograph in recorded history.

The Louis Moinet Memoris Red Eclipse

Designed around the chronograph function, the Memoris’ design priorities were to place first and foremost the considerations of the interval timing mechanism from both a technical and an aesthetic perspective. The chronograph reigns here. The all-new movement has been designed for and around the chronograph. To complete the picture and remove distractions, Louis Moinet has opted to locate the traditional workings of the automatic mechanism on the back of the movement, beneath the plate.

On its dial, the newly added stars have been created using an entirely new fixed graver process, according to Louis Moinet’s CEO Jean-Marie Schaller.

Front view, Louis Moinet Memoris Red Eclipse.

Devised by one of Louis Moinet’s craftsmen, the process involves attaching a specially made lathe to a traditional rose engine to combine the nature of the rose engine with the precision of a handheld graver. The results are individual stars that feature different angles and depths so that each one captures as much light as possible. The dial effectively creates the illusion that one is staring at the stars in space.

A sketch of the engraved Memoris Red Eclipse gold case.

On the reverse side, the oscillating weight is decorated with a red moon in gold-leaf enamel surrounded by a blackened guilloche pattern. All case surfaces have also been beautifully decorated in one form or another.

The oscillating weight is decorated with a red moon in gold-leaf enamel surrounded by a blackened guilloche pattern.

The Louis Moinet Memoris Red Eclipse comes in a limited edition of twelve pieces. Price: $115,000.

iW Rating

Design: 9
Case, dial & movement all make the art of horology history come alive.

Innovation: 8
Completely new mechanical platform centered on interval timing.

Finissage: 9
Full marks for the case, dial and movement.

Legibility: 6
The longer it takes to recognize the time, the longer you can enjoy the details of this masterpiece.

Rarity: 9
Only twelve will be made.

Value: 10
Previous versions already selling at a premium above retail.

Overall iW rating: 51 (out of 60)

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