iW Magazine
Baselworld 2017

Baselworld 2017 Preview: Angelus U21 and U22 Tourbillons

With a carbon fiber main plate, the Angelus U21 and U22 Tourbillons extend an Angelus story that started last year with the Angelus U20. Like that much-acclaimed skeletonized tourbillon, with its blue titanium bridges and sapphire mainplate, these two new Angelus watches emphasize high-tech materials, open architecture and a minimalistic approach to presenting complicated watchmaking.

New this year, however, is an even stronger dose of contemporary design, if that’s possible with a piece like this. By using the aforementioned carbon fiber plates on both new models, Angelus also emphasizes lightweight design (especially with the titanium-cased U22 Tourbillon, which weights less than 54 grams), though I suspect this is more a notable byproduct of using such material rather than Angelus’s aim here.

The Angelus U22 Tourbillon

Primarily, Angelus wants us to marvel at the streamlined design and ‘structural optimization’ of these two new limited-edition (18 pieces) executions. And with no bezels on either model, every essential gear and bridge is plainly visible, even when viewing the dial from the side (thanks to the domed sapphire crystal.)

This transparency is essentially because Angelus says it has built this movement as a showpiece. Each watch presents an almost instructional mechanical portrait showing how bridges hold gears that then propel hands via the mesmerizing actions of a tourbillon.

That tourbillon features a variable inertia balance wheel Angelus has designed to minimize air friction. And the patterned carbon fiber used in the main plate is built for strength, offering maximum rigidity. Notably visible from the back, the caliber’s ruby bearings are set into solid gold chatons. All components are hand-chamfered, hand-polished and hand satin-finished to ensure that their haute appearance echoes their smart engineering.

The Angelus U21 Tourbillon_caliber

The Angelus U21 Tourbillon

The U21 Tourbillon does this with the assistance of warm gold. The bezel-free carbon fiber central case/plate element here features polished and satin-brushed 18-karat red gold lugs and red gold skeletonized bridges. To further enhance legibility, Angelus fills the hands with white SuperLumiNova.

The U22 Tourbillon is a bit sportier. While it features a carbon fiber/titanium case (like the original U20) that allows Angelus to boast about its light weight, The U22 dial is easily the bolder of the two new models. Unlike the U21, the flange ring on this model is set with satin-finished applied indexes for the hour markers. The red SuperlumiNova central hands extend the racier look.

We look forward to seeing these two new Angelus skeleton tourbillon watches in person, especially as guided by Angelus design guru Sébastien Chaulmontet (who also happens to be in charge of movement design at Arnold & Son) at the upcoming Baselworld 2017.

Prices: Angelus U21 Tourbillon: $52,200. Angelus U22 Tourbillon: $37,995. Each is a made as a limited edition of eighteen pieces.

The Angelus U22 Tourbillon_back

Angelus U21 Tourbillon Technical Specifications:

Features and Indications
Central hours and minutes, one-minute flying tourbillon, haute horlogerie manufacture movement with NPT carbon-fiber main plate and gold bridges

Movement and Finishing
Caliber: Angelus A-250, manual winding with flying tourbillon, NPT carbon-fiber main plate and solid 18-karat red gold bridges
Jewels: 18, set in solid gold chatons
Diameter: 32.60 mm
Height: 5.78 mm
Power reserve: 90 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph / 3 Hb
Balance: Variable inertia regulated by four gold weights, minimal air-resistant design
Escapement: Swiss lever
Gear train: Exclusive Angelus 6-spoke design to maximize rigidity
Complications: One-minute flying tourbillon
Tourbillon cage: Steel, hand-chamfered and hand-polished
Movement finishing: Haute horlogerie, all steel components have hand-chamfered and hand-polished edges, flat surfaces are mirror-polished or satin-finished. Satin finished with chamfered and polished edges solid 18-karat red gold bridges

Dial
Material: NPT carbon-fiber dial is actually the movement’s main plate
Hour and minute markings: Printed spokes on outer chapter ring
Hour and minute hands: Rhodium-treated with white SuperLumiNova blue emission

Case
Material: NPT carbon fiber and 18-karat red gold
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 10.30 mm including sapphire crystals
Crown: Engraved with ANGELUS logo
Back: Sapphire display back
Distance between lugs: 21 mm
Water resistance: 30 meters
Crystals: Sapphire crystal dome with anti-reflective coating on inside surface

Strap and buckle
Material: Stealth black alligator leather with titanium insert
Buckle: 18-karat red gold pin buckle engraved with Angelus logo

Angelus U22 Tourbillon Technical Specifications:
Features and Indications: Central hours and minutes, one-minute flying tourbillon, haute horlogerie manufacture movement with NPT carbon-fiber main plate and titanium bridges

Movement and Finishing
Caliber: Angelus A-250, manual winding with flying tourbillon, NPT carbon-fiber main plate and titanium bridges
Jewels: 18, set in solid gold chatons
Diameter: 32.60 mm
Height: 5.78 mm
Power reserve: 90 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph / 3 Hz
Balance: Variable inertia regulated by four gold weights, minimal air-resistant design
Escapement: Swiss lever
Gear train: Exclusive Angelus 6-spoke design to maximize rigidity
Complications: One-minute flying tourbillon
Tourbillon cage: Steel, hand-chamfered and hand-polished
Movement finishing: Haute horlogerie, all steel components have hand-chamfered and hand-polished edges, flat surfaces are mirror-polished or satin-finished. Chamfered and sand blasted titanium bridges.

Dial
Material: NPT carbon-fiber dial is actually the movement main plate
Hour and minute markings: Printed spokes on outer chapter ring and satin finished indexes
Hour and minute hands: Rhodium-treated with red SuperLumiNova blue emission

Case
Material: NPT carbon fiber and titanium
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 10.30 mm including sapphire crystals
Crown: Engraved with ANGELUS logo
Back: Sapphire display back
Distance between lugs: 21 mm
Water resistance: 30 meters
Crystals: Sapphire crystal dome with anti-reflective coating on inside surface

Strap and buckle
Material: Stealth black alligator leather with titanium insert
Buckle: Titanium, pin buckle engraved with Angelus logo

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