Sunken Treasure: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner 1166619LB

Eight years after its watershed Baselworld debut, encountering the 18-karat white gold Rolex 116619LB remains a unique experience. The contradiction in terms beguiles the mind; it’s an exceptionally scarce variant of a ubiquitous watch. For those who love fine things that offer service without compromise, this Oyster Perpetual Submariner offers equal measures of practical and…

Eight years after its watershed Baselworld debut, encountering the 18-karat white gold Rolex 116619LB remains a unique experience. The contradiction in terms beguiles the mind; it’s an exceptionally scarce variant of a ubiquitous watch. For those who love fine things that offer service without compromise, this Oyster Perpetual Submariner offers equal measures of practical and psychic satisfaction.

And it helps to like the color, because the Submariner “LB” has azure in spades. While the half-pound plus of white gold ensures the owner of this super-Sub will remain perpetually cognizant of its presence, it’s the chromatic critical mass of blue that draws the attention of third parties. In 2008, the Sub LB was the first-ever application of Rolex’s Cerachrom ceramic bezel to employ the color blue. It’s a rich and lustrous treatment of the color that perfectly matches the gloss base of the dial.

Despite its prodigious expense, weight, and historic status as the first white gold Submariner in the model’s then 55-year history, the 116619 is almost indistinguishable from its steel counterpart. Only the gleam of polished bracelet center links hints at the rare luxury embodied by this super-Sub. White gold is a subtle take on the original precious metal that eschews the warmth of rose gold and the traditionalism of yellow in favor of a very personal fulfillment; “or blanc” imparts the covert thrill of enjoying a rich privilege that hides in plain sight. Only

In all other respect, the first of the 116XXX class of Rolex Submariners wears and operates with the rifle-bolt solidity of its steel kin. The mass of the watch with full bracelet amounts to a gargantuan 228 grams, but the milled Oyster clasp, clamshell lock, and incremental “Glidelock” device provides 20mm of incremental adjustment.

Within the 300-meter water resistant case, a Rolex caliber 3135 keeps the beat. It’s the same heart that powers all Submariner references, but the standard of quality remains commensurate to the white gold diver’s stealthy sophistication.

The automatic movement is a certified Swiss chronometer, and it is tested again after casing-up in order to meet Rolex’s more restrictive -2/+2-per-day “Superlative Chronometer” in-house precision test. Features include a full balance bridge for stability in the face of shocks, a free-sprung balance with Rolex’s signature Microstella masses, and a hand-made “Parachrom Blue”-alloy Breguet overcoil hairspring ensures isochronism across many positions on the wrist and within strong magnetic fields. Naturally, hacking (stop) seconds and a date quickset function complete the long-serving 3135’s feature set.

Rolex’s white Gold Submariner isn’t a glam rocker. Its muted metal is uniquely unsuited to shallow exhibitionism on Facebook feeds and contrived lifestyle statements on Instagram. For the sports watch collector with a taste for discreet refinement, profound affection for the color blue, and a budget to match, the Rolex Submariner 116619LB is a hidden pearl lying just beneath the surface of mainstream diving machines.

Video and content by Tim Mosso