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Watches and Wonders 2024: Hublot Downsizes Big Bang 

The latest entry to the Hublot Big Bang series is not so big and displays a bit less bang.

One of six debuts The new Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only collection.

The new Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only, one of many Watches and Wonders 2024 debuts from the Swiss watchmaker, takes Hublot back in time to its 1980 roots with its three-hand-and-date display within an integrated 38mm case. 

While 38mm models with similar dials can be found in the current Big Bang Original collection, all are higher-priced diamond models. (Most existing Big Bang Original models measure 41mm or 44mm in diameter.)

The existing models are all also attached to straps. The new models feature fully integrated bracelets that offer a clean, screw-free link with their case. 

The 2024 debut series maintains Big Bang’s so-called ‘ears’ on each side of the case, as well as the six H-shaped functional screws that secure the bezel. The new watches also displays time with the Big Bang’s familiar large skeleton hour hand and minute hand, each accompanied a seconds hand that is tipped with the Hublot ‘H’. And as you can see, the same even-numbered indexes mark the time on the dial.

As an added bonus, all the debuts feature soft ferromagnetic steel dials that protect the Hublot MHUB1115 automatic movement from the problematic effects of magnetic fields.

Hublot debuts the Big Bang Integrated Time Only series with six models. Two are made with a brushed titanium case and bracelet, with a black or a blue dial. The next two versions are in King Gold, also with a blue or black dial. 

Two more versions are in cased in ceramic. One is entirely navy blue with a blue dial while the other is a familiar Black Magic style (above) known to Hublot collectors. The watch’s case, bracelet and dial are black, which makes it the first Big Bang Black Magic with a 38mm diameter (with an exception within the Classic Fusion series.)

Prices: $13,100 (Titanium), $15,300 (blue ceramic and Black Magic) and $47,100 (King Gold). 

Smaller Fusion Too

We’ll have more downsizing from Hublot in future posts. These smaller new models include of the 29mm Classic Fusion Original and Classic Fusion series in various case metals, with or without diamonds.  Here’s a preview: 

Two examples of Hublot’s new Classic Fusion models available in a wide range of 29mm case metals.
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Watches and Wonders 2024: Chopard Alpine Eagle & L.U.C XPS 

Chopard’s wide-ranging Watches and Wonders 2024 debuts include a premiere, ongoing titanium chronograph within the high-flying Alpine Eagle collection, plus a beautiful forest green-dialed model that now enhances the dressy L.U.C XPS series.

The new Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono

Alpine Eagle 

Chopard’s sporty Alpine Eagle collection now includes the 44mm Alpine Eagle XL Chrono, the watchmaker’s first serially produced titanium chronograph within the collection. Though Chopard did previously offer two high-frequency Alpine Eagle watches using the lightweight, anti corrosive metal, the new chronograph joins the collection full-time.

With a new Rhône Blue dial color, the watch retains the Alpine Eagle’s characteristic ‘eagle’s iris’ pattern dial, meant to evoke both the strength of the namesake bird and the beauty of the Alps.  Chopard says this particular hue is inspired by the Rhône river, which originates in the Alps.

Chopard’s superb 03.05-C chronometer-certified flyback chronograph movement.

Powering the chronograph is Chopard’s superb 03.05-C chronometer-certified flyback chronograph movement, which boasts a sixty-hour power reserve and is the subject of three technical patents. Its unidirectional gear drive system reduces energy loss, according to Chopard, while also ensuring rapid automatic winding. In addition, a vertical clutch ensures accurate time-measurement starts.

As with all watches sold from within the Alpine Eagle collection, part of the proceeds from sales of this model will be donated to the Alpine Eagle Foundation, which aims to protect the white-tailed eagle population around Lake Geneva, among many other environmental causes. 

The watch, Ref. 298609-3008, is a Chopard Boutique exclusive. Price: $25,000. 

L.U.C XPS Forest Green 

Chopard’s L.U.C collection debuts have been highlights of many previous Watches and Wonders exhibitions, and the latest entry, the L.U.C XPS Forest Green, is no exception. 

With its retro sector-type dial, the new with oozes vintage charm. Teamed with a movement from  Chopard’s well-known L.U.C series ( the automatic L.U.C 96.12-L caliber), the watch combines an ultra-thin profile with both traditional and very modern touches.

The vintage-looking satin-brushed dark green dial is achieved, ironically, by use of a modern PVD treatment.

The 40mm by 7.2mm steel case is very modern too. It is composed of in Lucent Steel, Chopard’s own alloy produced with a recycling rate of at least 80%. The movement is an ultra-thin caliber measuring just 3.30 mm thick.

It features a bidirectional 22-karat gold micro-rotor and twin stacked barrels, called Chopard Twin Technology, that provides a sixty-five-hour power reserve.

Price: $11,800. 

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Watches & Wonders 2024: The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph

  

Zenith adds a chronograph to its Defy Skyline collection, the watchmaker’s contemporary version of its Defy series from the early 1970s characterized by its octagonal case and multi-sided bezel.

The new Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph.

Debuting three years ago with time-only models, and now including tourbillon and skeleton models, Defy Skyline has become one of the watchmakers best-selling collections. With the new Defy Skyline Chronograph, the collection offers an even sportier option within the same contemporary design.

The new watch also adds another Zenith series that highlights the Manufacture’s El Primero 3600 automatic high-frequency chronograph caliber with a 1/10th of a second chronograph function.

With three dial options, the new watches retain Skyline’s 41mm steel case and add pushers, the collection’s first, with a design that echoes those seen on existing Defy Extreme models. A screw-down crown with the Zenith star logo helps ensure a water-resistance of 100 meters.

Available in metallic black, blue or silver, the Defy Skyline Chronograph’s dial maintains the signature sunray pattern metallic design, engraved with four-pointed stars, found throughout the Defy Skyline series.

To display chronograph times, Zenith places a set of three overlapping counters, which show the elapsed seconds and minutes of the chronograph and the constant running seconds. The date window matches the dial color, a feature seen throughout the El Primero models. The flange ring with the 1/10th of a second scale has twelve facets to form the dodecagonal bezel, which are essentially hour marker extensions.

As with all Defy Skyline models, the new Defy Skyline Chronograph offers an integrated quick strap-change mechanism. With a push of a button, the three-link steel bracelet can be swapped with the supplied star-patterned rubber strap with steel folding buckle. 

Price: $12,300.

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Watches and Wonders 2024: Frederique Constant Updates Classics 

Frederique Constant adds three smaller-cased variations to its Classic Date Manufacture collection, all in steel and all with an enhanced manufacture movement.

At the same time, the Geneva watchmaker updates its Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture with new dials, a new movement and a longer power reserve. 

One of three Frederique Constant Classic Date Manufacture debuts.

Classic Date Manufacture

With a new-generation manufacture FC-706 caliber, the latest Classic Date Manufacture series now offers seventy-two hours of power reserve, a smaller (40mm) case size and a longer warranty, newly extended to five years.

Instead of the 42mm case of the existing series, the new 40mm size frames a new dial with no numerals, refined hour-markers and a new “chemin de fer” minute track. All this impressive novelty will be offered in three models with sunray pattern dials in silver, black or salmon.

The new movement features multiple improved technical features. 

In addition to a larger barrel to enhance power reserve (which jumps from thirty-eight hours to seventy-two hours), the new Manufacture FC-706 movement has also been newly finished.

Now, circular-grained and fan-shaped côtes de Genève finishes decorate the bridges rather than circular motifs. 

In part thanks to these enhancements, Frédérique Constant increases the Classic Date Manufacture warranty to a full five years. 

New hour-markers, hands and minute track designs also signify the new generation Classic Date Manufacture series. The hour-markers are applied, diamond-cut, polished and slightly reduced at 5 o’clock and 7 o’clock.

No numerals means greater attention to the minute track around the dial, which has also been made more prominent with its railway style. Finally,  there’s a new onion-shaped crown on the watch. 

One model on a brown alligator strap features a salmon-colored dial combined with a steel case, and silver-colored hour-markers and hands. The second model offers a silver sunray dial with a navy-blue alligator strap and the third, the most contemporary, contrasts a black dial with its steel case and silver-colored hands and hour-markers.

The newly updated series continues to underscore Frederique Constant’s ability to offer high-quality Swiss manufacture movements within classically designed watches at relatively affordable prices.

Price: $3,495.

Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture

With a new trio of dial variations and an enhanced power reserve of seventy-two hours, the Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture, a flagship model for Frederique Constant, is now available in three new steel-cased variations with a silvered, blue or green dial.

Boasting the technical upgrades found in all the new FC-700 series calibers, the new the new FC-716 movement powers a redesigned refined dial with a sunray finish and thin fine hands.

And like the date model debut (above), the new Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture also now comes with a five-year warranty.

Price: $4,095

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Watches and Wonders 2024: Oris Upcycles Aquis

 

Oris redesigns its 36.5mm Aquis Date as it updates and expands the full series with new dials and four new ‘Upcycle’ models featuring dials made of recycled PET plastic.

One of several new Oris Aquis Date debuts, which feature a new crown protector and reworked lugs.

Oris has reworked the lugs and crown protector on the Aquis Date to create a sleeker version of the best-selling sporty design, which also includes a newly tapered three-link steel bracelet with a wider central link.

In addition, Oris has re-proportioned the watch’s unidirectional rotating bezel and ceramic bezel insert while adding a newly polished hour markers to each dial.

The Oris Aquis Date Caliber 400

To further enhance the series Oris has added new Aquis-only typography, new hands and a new date wheel with a background color matching the dial.

Multiple sizes

The re-designed Aquis Date collection offers a choice of movement and case size seemingly for every taste or wrist size.

Oris Aquis Date

The 36.50 mm size includes one option with a dial made of recycled PET plastic plus new black or cream-hued mother-of-pearl dials.

The Oris Aquis Date Upcycle

Oris explains that the re-designed 36.5mm models feature a ‘softer profile’ enhanced by a narrower uni-directional rotating bezel with a ceramic insert engraved with baton hour markers. These appear a bit lighter visually than the Aquis Date’s standard Arabic numeral minutes scale.

The Oris Aquis Date Upcycle Caliber 400

These newest options are in addition to more dial choices within existing 41.50 mm and 43.50 mm Aquis Date case sizes, all of which are newly available in a blue, green, black or PET plastic dial and powered by the Sellita-based Oris Caliber 733.

The flagship of the series remains the Aquis Date Caliber 400 43.50 mm, which is powered by the Oris in-house five-day, anti-magnetic Caliber 400 automatic movement.

Oris Aquis Date Caliber 400

This model is offered with new green, blue or PET plastic dial options. These Caliber 400 models include the patented Oris Quick Change Strap system and a stainless steel folding clasp with a patented quick adjust clasp system.

Oris Aquis Date 36.5mm

“Aquis is the cornerstone of our collection and a symbol of our joyfully sustainable approach to watchmaking,” said Oris Co- CEO Rolf Studer. “This new generation forms the next chapter in a great story that continues to make people smile.”

New packaging  

Oris will box all the new Aquis Dive models in sustainable modular packaging made from low-weight, low-volume, recycled and fully recyclable cardboard and paper.

“Across the watch industry, packaging has one of the highest impacts on the environment of any of our activities, explains Studer. “Watch boxes are often heavy and take up lots of space on an airplane and then a lot of space in homes all over the world, without ever really serving a useful function. Many people throw them away.”

Oris Aquis Date Caliber 400

The newest Oris Aquis is priced starting at $2,500 for a Sellita-based movement edition with red Oris rotor) on rubber strap and $2,700 for a metal bracelet version, Upcycle models are $2,800.

New Oris Aquis Caliber 400 models start at $3,900 on a rubber strap and $4,100 on a metal bracelet, with Caliber 400 Upcycle models priced at $4,200.

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