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Grand Seiko drops the case diameter of its 62GS Heritage Collection offerings to 38mm for two new seasonal Hi-Beat 36000 debuts.

One, the SBGH341 “Sakura-Kakushi” (hiding cherry blossoms) features a pink dial inspired by Shunbun, which is the vernal equinox of late March.

The new Grand Seiko SBGH341 “Sakura-Kakushi”

Its colors echo the effect of snow as it covers blooming cherry blossoms of the Tohoku region.

The new Grand Seiko SBGH343 Sakura-Wakaba.

The second debut, the SBGH343 Sakura-Wakaba, is inspired by the Seimei season of early April with its patterned green dial that blends cherry blossom hues and the colors of young leaves.

Both offer a 38mm 62GS titanium case finished by Grand Seiko artisans to the high standards of Zaratsu polishing. Each also is attached to the wrist with a beautifully finished ‘high-intensity’ titanium bracelet secured by a three-fold clasp.

Inside each watch Grand Seiko fits its highly-touted Hi-Beat 36000 9S85 Caliber, calibrated to deliver +5 to -3 seconds of accuracy per day with an impressive fifty-five hours of power reserve.

Like all the Heritage models in this collection, you’ll find extra-strong anti-magnetic protection (to 4,800 A/m) and water resistance to 100 meters.

Price: $7,300.

Girard-Perregaux expands its Bridges collection with a celestial twist. The new Free Bridge Meteorite features a central bridge framed by fragments from the asteroid belt.

The new Girard-Perregaux Free Bridge Meteorite.

As each slice of the Gibeon meteorite (discovered in Namibia) displays a slightly different Widmanstätten pattern, each dial is unique.

With its inverted movement, the watch displays its bridges at the front of the watch. This dial symmetry nicely echoes historic (and award-winning) Girard-Perregaux Three Gold Bridges pocket watches, but with a modern treatment.

Skeletonized hands sit atop a bridge that straddles the visible gear train wheels. The open-worked approach continues with a see-through spring barrel at the top of the dial. 

The meteorite pieces here are made of an iron-nickel alloy with small amounts of cobalt and phosphorous, and along with their Widmanstätten patterned lines, create a nicely contrasting tone on the bridged dial.

To create the namesake meteorite dial decor, Girard-Perregaux artisans first slice the meteorite. After machining them into the correct shape, the slices are then pierced with two holes to accommodate two functional and decorative screws. Each plate is then rhodium-plated to protect the iron-rich meteorite, inhibiting corrosion.

Girard-Perregaux polishes the watch’s 44mm stainless steel case with a blend of polished and satin-finished surfaces.

Inside the Free Bridge Meteorite the watchmaker fits its superb caliber GP01800-2085, a self-winding movement equipped with silicon components. 

Price: $25,700.

 Mondaine adds three new black and white models to its minimalist Neo chronograph series. Each offers a variation of a classic panda-syle dial, and all retain the Mondaine red-dot seconds hand as seen on clocks at all Swiss railway stations.  

These 41mm quartz chronographs feature brushed steel cases that frame the classic three-sub-dial chronograph layout on each watch. One model is a classic Panda, with dark sub-dials amid a white primary dial, a second is all white while the third is a ‘reverse-panda’ dial, with white sub-dials amid a black primary dial. The latter example features white markers to extend visibility.

Each watch is also made ultra-visible with Mondaine’s generous application of SuperLuminova on the top of Neo’s broad hands.

Mondaine attaches each of the cases here to an unusual black grape leather strap. The watchmaker has replaced all its leather straps with vegan leather examples, with this type made from organic waste from wine production. All three watches are water resistant to fifty meters.

Price: $495.

While a glance at the newest Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase Date might reveal a classical moon-phase subdial with a hand-date, a closer inspection reveals something much more unusual. The hour markers on the two hand dress watch seem oddly askew, scattered around the dial as if forgotten during assembly.

The new Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase Date Manufacture Seconde/Second/Limited Edition

What’s more, the brand’s logo and the date display appear to be written by hand. Even the moon and stars within the moon-phase disk look uneven, as if written by an amateur.

Rest assured that the dial typography and finish are not made in error, but are a result of an unusual collaboration by Frederique Constant with artist Romaric André, known as ‘Seconde/Seconde/,’ that is meant to highlight the hand-assembled nature of the watchmaker’s products.

Each of the askew elements themselves are actually perfectly executed and embellished by hand, but their placement and tentative nature are aimed at emphasizing how Frederique Constant hand-finishes its dials, movements and cases.

The caseback gives the game away. The watch’s sapphire display back features a telltale explanation of the collaboration, with “How do we tell the world that manual‐assembly is at the core of our Manufacture? We asked artist seconde/seconde/. He took it too far” printed on the back. 

Just beneath the message the owner can eye the Frederique Constant FC‐705 in‐house automatic caliber that artisans have finished with perlage graining on the base plate, côtes de Genève striping on the bridge and blued screws throughout.

André notes that “As watch lovers, we’re looking for perfection… but when it becomes too perfect, we start to regret the lack of soul, the lack of connection with the ‘artisanal roots’ of watchmaking.”

Frederique Constant and André have created two limited editions of the watch. One is an online boutique limited edition of ten pieces that features rose gold accents on the case and dial. The second model is limited to 100 pieces encased in steel and available at Frederique Constant retailers worldwide. Price: $3,495.

 

Specifications: Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase Date Manufacture Seconde/Second/Limited Edition 

(Ref. FC-705SOC4S6, limited edition of 100 and FC-705SOC4S2 with gold-colored indexes, limited edition of 10) 

 

Movement: FC-705 in-house caliber, automatic 38-hour power reserve, 28,800 alt/h. 

Case: 42mm by 11.3mm polished stainless steel 3-part. Anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 meters, see-through case back. 

Dial: Silver with matte finishing, Frederique Constant Geneve logo hand-written by artist Seconde/Seconde, hand-applied off-center silver color indexes, hand-polished silver color hour and minute hands, moonphase at 6 o’clock, date by hand at 6 o’clock written by Seconde/Seconde.

Strap: Black alligator leather with matte finishing and tone-on-tone stitching, stainless steel folding buckle.

Price: $3,495. 

Bell & Ross expands its bronze-cased offerings with the new BR 03-92 Diver Black & Green Bronze, the latest model in the watchmaker’s dive collection.

The new Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Black & Green Bronze.

Boasting a color that might recall recent green-dial additions to the above-ground BR 05 collection, the new watch’s dial appears as a subdued matte green rather than the glossy green of those earlier land-based examples.

Bell & Ross teams the green dial with a bronze case that fits perfectly within  existing bronze-cased offerings in this collection. Last year the watchmaker  launched one new model in bronze, and a year earlier we saw the debut of two bronze-cased BR 03 Dive models.

Bronze cases are valued by many collectors for their ability to display the results of oxidation, a process that creates an individualized brownish, reddish or green patina pattern on each watch. Bronze is also an alloy of choice on sailing boat fittings. As Bell & Ross notes, “bronze gives watches extra soul and puts the wearer in touch with nature.”

As with all Bell & Ross dive watches, the new BR 03-92 Diver Black & Green Bronze is built to meet international standard ISO-6425, which states that a “diving watch” is a watch that must withstand immersion in water to a depth of at least 100 meters and have a highly visible time control system, among many other dive-ready specs.

Bell & Ross employs its automatic BR-CAL.302 movement (based on Sellita SW300-1) that beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations/hour and guarantees a 54-hour power reserve.

Protecting the movement, the solid steel caseback has been engraved with an image of a vintage bronze diver’s helmet. Bell & Ross attached the case to a black rubber strap with ‘ultra-resilient’ black synthetic fabric. 

Price: $4,900 (limited edition of 999 pieces).