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We continue to highlight a few of our favorite watches from among the more than fifty watchmakers that have created timepieces for the Only Watch charity auction, which commences Saturday, November 6, in Geneva. Christie’s will auction these incredible watches to raise funds that benefit research in the battle against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

While you may have seen a few of the watches set for auction earlier this year when Only Watch announced them, we thought you’d enjoy seeing many of these inspired designed again just ahead of the event.

The watches will tour the globe starting September 22 in Monaco, and can then be seen in exhibitions in Dubai (September 30 to October 3), Tokyo (October 8 to 10), Singapore (October 15 to 20), Hong Kong (October 25 to 27), Macau (October 28) and finally back in Geneva on November 4-6. Click here for details about the Only Watch world tour.

Today, we highlight the offering from TAG Heuer, which has created the Only Watch Carbon Monaco made with echoes of the highly collectible black-PVD-cased Monaco Reference 74033N, known by aficionados as the “Dark Lord”. TAG Heuer made the original watch in limited quantities in the mid-1970s, and it never appeared in a Heuer catalog.

This one-of-a-kind edition is cased in carbon fiber and features the brand’s largest-ever sapphire crystal caseback, which TAG Heuer’s engineers designed to give the watch’s future owner a clear view into its bespoke movement. The watch’s skeletonized dial is worked from a single piece of carbon fiber.

Sitting on top of the carbon dial are three black galvanized brass plates. These form the watch’s chronograph and small-seconds subdials. Those orange hands echo the Only Watch’s 2021 color palette.

The movement here, while technically a TAG Heuer in-house Heuer 02 automatic chronograph, has been decorated by hand especially for this watch.

The movement is endowed with an unique rotor in the form of a hand-finished TAG Heuer shield, which  is also decorated with a gradient orange to yellow color of Only Watch 2021. The seamless transition from orange to yellow was achieved by hand, painted by the master dial artist and micro-painter André Martinez from Le Locle.

Indeed, TAG Heuer utilizes specialists Artime SA to create a high-level of finish throughout the movement. And finally, TAG Heuer has created a new leather strap that looks like a metal bracelet. All new for TAG Heuer, the process starts as silicon is injected into the sole of the leather. This is then heat-stamped with a mold in the shape of a metal link bracelet, creating the three- dimensional effect. Very cool, and impressive.

Only Watch auction estimate: CHF 50,000 to CHF 100,000.

TAG Heuer today expands its Aquaracer Professional 300 collection with three new watches. Two models with blue and black dials, first seen in April as steel bracelet models when TAG Heuer upgraded the deep-diving collection, are now offered with matching rubber strap options.

A third debut echoes a favorite bright-dialed TAG Heuer dive watch from the past.

TAG Heuer re-introduces an old favorite with Aquaracer Professional 300 Night Diver.

Return of the Night Diver

TAG Heuer’s highlight fall 2021 Aquaracer Professional 300 debut is the all-black, lume-dialed Aquaracer Professional 300 Night Diver. The watch recalls the TAG Heuer “Night Diver” first seen in the mid-1980s and re-introduced in numerous guises in the years since, most recently in 2018.

The Night Diver’s standout feature, then and today, is its fully luminescent dial, which TAG Heuer coats in green SuperLuminova. This is truly non-subtle lume, which may be too bright for some desk divers, but for others hits home.

TAG Heuer seemingly overfills the watch’s minute and central seconds with blue lume to clearly contrast with the green dial. That bright green color also appears on the hour hand and four primary hour markers. And critically, TAG Heuer fills the triangle at the top of the unidirectional rotating bezel with blue lume to match the blue of the minute and central seconds hands.

To emphasize the ‘night’ in the watch’s nickname, TAG Heuer coats the watch’s 43mm stainless steel case, bezel, crown, caseback and clasp with matte black diamond-like carbon. The bezel insert is black ceramic.

TAG Heuer’s ETA-based (or Sellita-based) Caliber 5 automatic movement powers all references in the new Aquaracer Professional 300 collection.

TAG Heuer fits the Night Diver with a black rubber strap
 with a black DLC steel folding clasp with double safety push buttons with fine adjustment system.

Full collection

You might recall that earlier this year TAG Heuer revamped its Aquaracer collection, displaying models with a more refined twelve-sided bezel, shorter lugs, slightly wider hour hands and more prominent horizontal engraved dial lines. The three new models debuting today expand the new Aquaracer collection to eleven references.

All three new Aquaracer models feature a unidirectional rotating bezel, a screw-down crown, are water resistance to 300 meters, feature a sapphire crystal and a double safety clasp. And they all have solid casebacks stamped with a diving suit sporting a twelve-sided faceplate.

Prices: $3,350 (Night Diver) and $2,700 (Aquaracer with blue or black dial with new rubber strap).

The new Aquaracer Professional 300 collection now includes blue or black-dialed models with matching straps. These models debuted in April with steel bracelets only.

 

 

 

Watchmakers have been multiplying their automotive and motorsports collaborations in recent years. Here, we review a few prominent timekeeping/racing alliances.

By Y-Jean Mun-DelSalle

In this Part III of our recently expanded four-part series outlining automotive-wristwatch partnerships, we highlight TAG Heuer.

TAG Heuer

Historically rooted in motorsports, TAG Heuer has worked with many car companies, starting with Scuderia Ferrari, but also McLaren, Mercedes, Audi and, more recently, Aston Martin.

As one of the most highly-anticipated watch/car partnerships with authentic motor racing heritage and on-track success, the friendship between TAG Heuer and Porsche has existed for decades and is now transformed into a strategic partnership ranging from sports competition to product development.

From a 1959 Ralley.

Racing fans and watch fans will know that the Carrera Panamericana road race in Mexico gave its name to creations from both brands. Porsche named its most powerful engine the Carrera after its class win in the 1954 Carrera Panamericana, and Edouard Heuer’s great-grandson, Jack Heuer, conceived the first Heuer Carrera chronograph in 1963.

Jo Siffert, wearing Heuer.

Thereafter, Jack Heuer struck a sponsorship arrangement with Jo Siffert at the wheel of various Porsches with the Heuer logo on his car and suit. Siffert was the Swiss racing driver on which Steve McQueen had based his character during the filming of Le Mans in 1970 in which he drove a Porsche 917.

The Porsche 911 Carrera, from 1972.

In the 1980s, TAG Heuer and Porsche developed the TAG-Turbo engine that led the McLaren team to three consecutive F1 world titles. Porsche also created its own Formula E team with TAG Heuer as title and timing partner in 2019, the Swiss watchmaker being a founding partner of the electric racing championship.

The TAG Heuer Porsche Formula E Team tackles its second season running the Porsche 99X Electric race car in 2021.

And there is more. The two brands will be collaborating in the FIA World Endurance Championship and the Porsche Carrera Cup worldwide one-make cup series. For their first joint timepiece, they produced the 44-mm TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph, powered by the in-house Caliber Heuer 02 with 80-hour power reserve.

In the Porsche colors of red, black and gray recalling historic Heuer models, the watch features a rotor in the shape of Porsche’s trademark steering wheel. Arabic numerals suggesting the numbers on Porsche dashboards are set against an asphalt-effect dial.

The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition.

“Time is at the very core of racing. Without its mastery, there is no competition, no progress,” says Frédéric Arnault, TAG Heuer CEO.

Back view of the TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition, showing the Caliber Heuer 02.

“From its early years, Heuer made it its specialty to develop tools like chronographs, stopwatches and dashboard timers, which helped drivers, teams and race organizers keep time in increasingly accurate ways,” Arnault continues. “The company served a very tangible purpose in motor racing from the start; it was in its DNA. Later, it was Jack Heuer who saw the natural connection from a branding perspective, and we became the first non-automotive brand to sponsor a F1 team. We started with Carrera as it’s an iconic name we share, but that was just the first step.”

 

Y-Jean Mun-DelSalle is a freelance journalist and editorial consultant who has lived on three different continents. She meets with inspirational individuals in pursuit of excellence: emerging and established artists, designers and craftsmen, engaging entrepreneurs and philanthropists, and the movers and shakers of the world today. She contributes regularly to regional and international titles such as Artsy, Asia Tatler, Design Anthology, Forbes, Portfolio, Robb Report, Shawati’ and Vogue, shining a spotlight in particular on art, architecture, design, horology and jewelry.

 

Just ahead of TAG Heuer-ambassador Max Verstappen’s win at the 78th Monaco Grand Prix this past weekend, TAG Heuer launched a new titanium-cased version of the brand’s famed square-bezel chronograph.

The new TAG Heuer Monaco Titan Limited Edition frames the familiar Monaco dial in an eye-catching, sandblasted 39mm titanium case.

The new TAG Heuer Monaco Titan Limited Edition.

The metal, which TAG Heuer rarely uses for Monaco, means the watch is lighter than its steel cousins while its matte-finishing perfectly complements a new silver-hued, sunray-brushed dial.

For this limited edition of 500, TAG Heuer took advantage of the watch’s metallic, almost monochromatic aura to just subtly note Monaco’s racing history, applying black sub-dials and racing red accents on the central hand and the 12 o’clock marker.

As long-time Monaco fans might note, the new watch also echoes the left-side-crown placement of the original Heuer Monaco. This is because TAG Heuer fits the new watch with its updated Caliber 11, named after the original groundbreaking automatic chronograph inside the 1969 Monaco.

The new watch is actually the first Monaco since 2019 to utilize the modern modular chronograph, which TAG Heuer creates using a Sellita base and a Dubois Dépraz module. TAG Heuer has tapped its Heuer 02 caliber, with its right-side crown, to power the Monaco releases in the interim.

To enhance the watch’s link to Monaco’s auto-racing-inspired history, the new Monaco Titan Limited Edition arrives on a sporty anthracite alligator strap, patterned internally to recall racecar tire grooves.

TAG Heuer offers the Monaco Titan Limited Edition in TAG Heuer boutiques and on www.tagheuer.com.  

Price: $7,900. 

Specifications:

TAG Heuer Monaco Titan Limited Edition Chronograph

(Reference CAW218B.FC6496, a 500-piece limited edition)

Movement: Automatic TAG Heuer Caliber 11, Sellita base with Dubois Dépraz module

Case: 39mm 
Grade 2 titanium sand-blasted, domed, beveled sapphire crystal, sandblasted sapphire crystal screw-down caseback, water-resistant to 100 meters.

Dial: Silver sunray-brushed, black permanent seconds at 3 o’clock, black gold-plated applied indexes with white SuperLuminova, rhodium-plated hour and minute hands with white SuperLuminova, red central chrono hand, black ‘Heuer’ printed logo, angled date display, 
MONACO AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH printed.

Strap: Black alligator leather, grade 2 titanium folding clasp with double safety push buttons, Heuer logo.

Price: $7,900.

 

TAG Heuer this week adds a teal-green-dialed beauty to its Carrera collection with the Carrera Green Special Edition, an eye-catching ode to the brand’s famed 1963 original.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Green Special Edition.

While the shimmering, sunray-finished blue-green color is new for Carrera, the watch’s signature lugs, polished steel case and pushers recall the original with purist accuracy, though the case now measures 39mm in diameter rather than 36mm for the original.

The enviable dial retains the same Heuer tri-compax layout (minute chronograph at 3 o’clock, hour chronograph at 9 o’clock and permanent second indicator at 6 o’clock) found on the original.

The watch’s nicely faceted hands, domed glass box crystal and Heuer logo thoughtfully extend the commemoration. In fact, the vintage-hued SuperLuminova seems to amplify the apparent depth of the dial, a visual effect already strengthened by the crystal’s curves.

TAG Heuer extends the dial’s teal color to the movement, where thanks to the transparent caseback you’ll see the color on the movement’s column wheel and in the Calibre Heuer 02 and Swiss Made inscriptions on the rotor.

Inside the Carrera Green Special Edition TAG Heuer fits its superior Caliber Heuer 02 manufacture movement that utilizes a column wheel and vertical clutch and boasts an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Finally, TAG Heuer attaches the watch to your wrist with a black alligator leather strap with a folding clasp and two safety push buttons.

TAG Heuer now offers the 500-piece limited edition chronograph on its e-commerce websites and at TAG Heuer boutiques. Price: $6,650.

 

Specifications: TAG Heuer Carrera Green Special Edition

Reference: CBK221F.FC6479 (Limited Edition of 500)

Movement: TAG Heuer Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic manufacture movement. Chronograph with minute and hour hands, permanent second, hour and minute indicators, center seconds hand.

Case: 39mm polished stainless-steel case and fixed bezel, domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment, polished stainless-steel crown with push buttons at 2 and 4 o’clock. Water-resistant to 100 meters, SPECIAL EDITION engraved on the caseback

Dial: Teal sunray brushed dial and flange with three snailed subdials. Permanent seconds indicator, polished and rhodium-plated hour and minute hands coated with SuperlumiNova.

Strap: Black alligator leather strap featuring a polished stainless-steel folding clasp with two safety push buttons.

Price: $6,650.

 

TAG Heuer has updated its Aquaracer with the Aquaracer Professional 300, a collection that reshapes the brand’s dive watch with thinner cases, wider hour hands, shorter lugs and newly fluted ceramic bezels.

 

And look for seven full-line references in two sizes (43mm and 36mm) in the new collection. All but one of the new Aquaracer 300 Professional models will be cased in steel (with blue, black or silver dials) while one collection (with a green-dial) will be made using a titanium case.

All told, four of the new references will have a 43mm case diameter, and three will feature a case measuring 36mm, with one of the smaller size models sporting diamond hour markers.  An eight model is a titanium-cased limited edition celebrating the 1978 watch that led to the Aquaracer collection.

Fluted bezel

TAG Heuer has updated nearly all the characteristics that TAG Heuer has deemed essential for every Aquaracer since 1983. Since that year watches in the collection have included a unidirectional rotating bezel, a screw-down crown, water resistance to at least 200 meters, luminous markings, a sapphire glass and a double safety clasp.

For the new models, TAG Heuer started its update by adjusting Aquaracer’s twelve-sided bezel.

In addition to adding scratch-resistant ceramic inserts in the bezel, as noted above, TAG Heuer has fluted the bezel’s trademark twelve facets for a quicker grip when the bezel needs to be turned. When turning the bezel, the user might note smoother action because TAG Heuer has also re-engineered the bezel’s internal teeth so they mesh with less resistance. Also note the new engraved minutes scale just inside the bezel.

All eight hour markers are now actually lume-filled octagons on the dials of the new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300.

Also new is an integrated magnifier, now positioned into the underside of the glass, over the date at 6 o’clock. Not only does the new position maintain an uninterrupted, flat sapphire crystal, but it also makes the date easier to read from wider angles.

Distinctive dials

TAG Heuer has also taken the shape of the bezel directly onto the dial. All eight hour markers are now actually lume-filled octagons. Similarly, a new twelve-sided crown has been added, matching the twelve-sided bezel. This helps maintain a design consistency, and confers a pleasing symmetry to the new Aquaracer.

But TAG Heuer didn’t stop at the markers. Note that the hour hand is wider with a more distinctive sword shape. Longtime fans might recognize it from the last of the TAG Heuer 2000 Series from 2004. However, TAG Heuer has narrowed, very slightly, the width of the minute hand to create a clearer distinction between the two hands.

Note the green and blue lume on the dial of the Aquaracer Professional 300.

 

The hands are further differentiated by luminosity hue, with green SuperLumiNova on the hour hand (and hour markers) and blue SuperLumiNova for the minute and seconds hands. The crown protection has been re-made as well. It’s now more rounded, echoing that first Ref. 844 from 1978.

If the central section of the dial looks familiar, it is. But it’s also different. TAG Heuer has kept Aquaracer’s familiar engraved dials with horizontal lines, but on the 43mm models those lines are set a bit further apart. The blue 36 mm model also has eight diamond hour markers and polished central bracelet links

Case study

Finally, as noted earlier, TAG Heuer has slimmed the case, bezel and metal bracelet, and shortened the lugs, without affecting the watch’s essential utility and performance. All models will maintain their full 300 meters of water resistance.

On the back of the new Aquaracer Professional 300 TAG Heuer again portrays an image of the same diving suit that first appeared on the Aquaracer caseback in 2004, but with a slight update. The helmet is more angular on the new collection, and the faceplate is twelve-sided, echoing the watch’s bezel shape.

The helmet on the new Aquaracer Professional 300 caseback is more angular, and the faceplate is twelve-sided, echoing the watch’s bezel shape.

Finally, each new reference features a new integrated metal bracelet equipped with a newer fine adjustment system that can extend or reduce the bracelet length by up to 1.5 centimeters.

Prices for the new Aquaracer Professional 300 start at $2,800 (36mm with black or white dial) and rise to $4,200 (43mm titanium model with green dial).

Limited Edition

In addition to launching seven new ongoing models within the Aquaracer Professional 300 collection, TAG Heuer is adding a limited edition titanium-cased watch in tribute to the Heuer Ref. 844, a diver’s watch released in 1978 that presaged the Aquaracer collection.

The Aquaracer Professional 300 Tribute to Ref. 844 is a tribute to original model from 1978.

That watch featured a dial design with a red 24-hour scale, prominent lume-filled hour markers and a rotating divers’ bezel with a minutes scale. The new tribute, called the Aquaracer Professional 300 Tribute to Ref. 844, is cased in Grade 5 titanium with visual elements from the archive piece. These include a flat black dial and a red 24-hour scale, originally intended as a quick conversion chart for divers.

The tribute watch also features vintage-hued luminescent material on its dial and arrives with a black perforated rubber strap that echoes the strap sold on the original. But here, TAG Heuer has made the perforations octagonal to maintain the new Aquaracer design code.

Only 844 examples of the Aquaracer Professional 300 Tribute to Ref. 844 will be made. TAG Heuer’s ETA-based (or Sellita-based) Caliber 5 automatic movement powers all eight references in the new Aquaracer Professional 300 collection. Price of the tribute model: $4,350.

 

TAG Heuer this week expands its offerings within the Carrera Heuer 02T collection with a new limited edition cased in polished titanium and sporting a blue sunray dial.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Caliber Heuer 02T COSC.

Where previous Carrera Heuer 02T models feature darkened, skeletonized dials, sometimes with gold accents, this latest design is lighter-toned and with a sportier solid dial and – for the first time – a titanium bracelet.

You may recall that five years ago TAG Heuer launched the flying tourbillon chronograph movement inside this watch as the brand’s serialized ‘affordable’ tourbillon chronograph watch, priced around $16,000.

Now powering this newest watch, the Caliber Heuer 02T is still TAG Heuer’s primary tourbillon caliber and retains all its high-end technical features, notably an ultra-light carbon and titanium tourbillon cage and integration with a column-wheel chronograph. TAG Heuer is likely the sole Swiss watchmaker to offer this combination of chronograph, flying tourbillon and COSC-chronometer precision within the full collection’s price range, now starting at around $17,000.    

 

Here TAG Heuer has blued not only the full dial, but also the bridges of the tourbillon cage, the rubber that protects the crown and the pushers. Even the ceramic tachymeter bezel and the rotor (visible from the back of the case) are finished in blue.

 

With this watch TAG Heuer for the first time connects one of its Caliber 02T models to a bracelet. Where earlier models sported rubber straps or alligator sewn on black rubber, the new Carrera Heuer 02T features the watchmaker’s own titanium H-shape bracelet with a steel/titanium safety clasp.

The TAG Heuer Caliber Heuer 02T features an ultra-light carbon and titanium tourbillon cage.

Price: $21,500 and limited to 250 examples.

 

Specifications: TAG Heuer 
Carrera Caliber Heuer 02T COSC

(Reference CAR5A8C.BF0707)

Movement: Caliber Heuer 02T COSC with carbon and titanium tourbillon cage, column-wheel chronograph.

Case: 45mm polished and brushed titanium, ceramic blue polished tachymeter fixed bezel, 
domed, beveled sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, water resistant to 100 meters. Crown with blue rubber and titanium, titanium pushers, titanium screwed sapphire case back with special engraving, limited numbered xxx/250.

Dial: Blue sunray brushed with three rhodium-plated and polished counters, white SuperLuminova Rhodium-plated polished hour and minute hands.

Strap: Titanium grade 2 H-shape bracelet, titanium and steel folding clasp with double safety push buttons; TAG Heuer shield.

Price: $21,500.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02T features a titanium H-shape bracelet with a steel/titanium safety clasp.

TAG Heuer and Porsche, which share deep ties to the world of auto racing, expand their collaboration this week with the TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph, the first TAG Heuer watch that pairs imagery from the two brands.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph
 Special Edition 44 mm Caliber Heuer 02 Automatic.

The new watch adds a host of Porsche automotive references to TAG Heuer’s recent, well-received Carrera Sport Chronograph design. Most noticeable is TAG Heuer’s widespread use of the Porsche dashboard font on both the bezel of the new watch and to denote the watch’s primary indexes, which are numbered to echo a speedometer. TAG Heuer also places the Porsche name prominently, in red, at the top of the bezel.

Furthermore, TAG Heuer utilizes red, black, and grey colors prominently on the new watch, echoing Porsche’s frequent use of the same hues. On the watch’s Caliber Heuer 02 automatic movement, TAG Heuer also places the names ‘Porsche’ and ‘TAG Heuer’ on the rotor, which is visible through the sapphire caseback.

Furthermore, TAG Heuer colors the dial to mimic asphalt in order to emphasize a ‘passion for the road,” according to the brand.  

TAG Heuer has collaborated with Porsche on a variety of ventures for decades, most recently since 2014 with the TAG Heuer Porsche Formula E Team and on the upcoming FIA World Endurance Championship (WEC). This year we’ll see series partnerships in ten editions of the worldwide one-make cup series Porsche Carrera Cup. TAG Heuer also engages in virtual racing by supporting the Porsche TAG Heuer E-sports Supercup.

Both companies are set to expand their collaborations. Porsche, for example, is running its own golf activities like the Porsche Golf Cup, and since 2015 has sponsored the Porsche European Open golf tournament. TAG Heuer has announced that it will join both these events. 

The watch will be sold on a calf leather strap with Porsche-style stitching, or on an interlocking race-style steel bracelet. TAG Heuer will deliver the Carrera Porsche Chronograph in packaging with a black watch box that features the logos of TAG Heuer and Porsche in white. Inside the box is a black travel pouch that boasts a Porsche red interior.

Price: $5,850 (leather strap) and $6,050 (steel bracelet).

Specifications:  TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph
 Special Edition 44 mm Caliber Heuer 02 Automatic

References: CBN2A1F.FC6492 (leather strap) and CBN2A1F.BA0643 (steel bracelet)

Movement: Caliber Heuer 02 automatic chronograph with 80-hour power reserve, vertical clutch and column wheel.

Case: 44 mm steel polished, fine brushed; ceramic black tachymeter fixed bezel, Porsche inscription. 
Domed and beveled sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment. Steel crown at 3 o’clock with red accent. 
Steel screw-down sapphire case back with special engraving
. Water resistance to 100 meters.

Dial: Grey asphalt color with three black chronograph counters. Black gold plated applied indexes with white SuperLuminova rhodium-plated hour and minute hands with white SuperLuminova rhodium-plated central hand w/red tip. 
TAG Heuer applied logo, 
date at 6 o’clock.

Strap/Bracelet: 
Embossed black calf leather strap with hand stitching; calf skin black lining and steel folding clasp with double safety push-buttons (on reference CBN2A1F.FC6492), or steel H-shape bracelet with steel folding clasp with double safety push-buttons (on reference 
CBN2A1F.BA0643)

Price: $5,850 (leather strap) and $6,050 (steel bracelet).

 

By Marc Frankel

It goes without saying that Dive Watches are one of the most popular styles of men’s watches sold today. But what many don’t know is that invoking the “dive” moniker actually has legal implications. Writing the word “Divers 200M” or any similar mark with “Diver” written on the dial or case back immediately invokes ISO 6425. The ISO (International Organization for Standardization) is an international body that writes standards for the commercial industry.

Before we get into ISO 6425, let’s talk about dive watches first. In modern times, very few SCUBA divers actually rely exclusively on a wristwatch while underwater. As an example, my own dive master had a beautiful Rolex Submariner on his wrist during classroom lessons, but once we hit the water, the Rolex was replaced with a dive computer.

The newest Ball Watch Engineer Hydrocarbon NEDU features 600 meters of water resistance, enhanced shock resistance and strong anti-magnetic properties.

Pre-computer

Before the advent of these modern and multi-function computers, divers relied on their mechanical watches to keep track of the key data points of total time submerged as well as bottom time in order to calculate residual nitrogen in the blood, and determine when, how many, and how long decompression stops should be if needed.

The dive watch, in this case, was performing a critical function, where a malfunction could spell disaster for the diver. This is why the ISO spec was developed, because dive watches were so critically important as instruments that protected the user’s health and safety. Today the analog dive watch continues to be worn while diving, but is more of a fashionable backup in the unlikely case the computer fails.

The Seiko Prospex SPB189 features a silicone strap or a titanium bracelet with super-hard coating and tri-fold push button release clasp with secure lock and extender. 

ISO 6425 is a rigorous specification titled “Horology – Divers’ watches” that supersedes older specs first released in the mid 1990s. In essence, it spells out what qualities a Dive Watch must have, and the methods with which to test them.

ISO Tests

Among the tests that ISO 6425 calls for includes, but is not limited to; temperature extremes, day and night visibility, magnetic resistance, salt spray, shock resistance and of course, water resistance. Obviously, we all expect water resistance to be one of the parameters checked. However, since water resistance is so important to the function of the dive watch, the actual pressure (depth) to which the watch is tested is 25% beyond the stated water resistance limit of a particular watch.

The Ulysse Nardin Diver X Nemo Point limited edition.

For example, a dive watch rated to 200 meters (20atm) is actually tested to 250 meters in order to meet ISO 6425.  And it’s not a dry air test. It is a true wet test, with a follow up condensation test to see if any moisture has found its way into the watchcase.

Furthermore, ISO 6425 states that EVERY watch certified to the spec needs to have its own water resistance individually tested. This means that if you are wearing a watch bearing the “Divers” mark on the dial or case back, that particular watch has been tested to 25% beyond the depth stated on the dial. Not a sample, but the very piece you are wearing. This is the ONLY way to ensure it will perform flawlessly under the stresses of diving.

The new TAG Heuer Aquaracer 43mm Tortoise Shell Effect Special Edition.

On my YouTube channel I discuss ISO in detail in my Watch and Learn series. In addition to water resistance, another ISO test that was actually quite fun to perform was the requirement that the strap needs to withstand about forty pounds of pull (simulating getting snagged on something) without the spring bars popping or tearing the strap itself. It was a great test to replicate, and the results were pretty eye opening.

One of several new models within the Torgoen T43 Diver watch collection.

So the next time you see the word “Dive” on watch dial, you’ll know that you are looking at an individually proven and tested dive watch that meets or exceeds the ISO 6425 quality standard!

Thank you for reading, and thank you for watching.

Marc Frankel, Video Editor, About Time

Founder, Long Island Watch

 

 

During the 1970s Jack Heuer presented 18-karat gold Heuer Carreras to Ferrari Formula 1 drivers during the watchmaker’s partnership with Ferrari. TAG Heuer this week revives the decades-old ‘good luck’ gesture by introducing a new gold Carrera, offering 188 of them as a limited edition to the non-racing general public.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Jack Heuer Birthday Gold Limited Edition.

The gold-cased debut, known as the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Jack Heuer Birthday Gold Limited Edition, echoes the racing theme of the original gold series (model 1158CHN) with two black, sunray brushed chronograph subdials at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock.

The new watch, at right, echoes the style of the 1970s chronograph, reference 1158CHN, offered to Ferrari racecar drivers.

But TAG Heuer has also applied a few new accents to the retro-inspired chronograph. Most notable are the stylized infinity loops to the center of the dial symbolizing Jack Heuer’s 88th birthday and the subtle seconds counter at 6 o’clock. TAG Heuer also updated the date display and the hands, which have been resized to match the hour markers. TAG Heuer has also attached a black alligator strap bearing Jack Heuer’s signature in gold lettering.

Why stop?

TAG Heuer has equipped the new watch with the estimable Caliber Heuer 02 manufacture movement with a column wheel, vertical clutch and an impressive power reserve of eighty hours.

The watch’s oscillating mass is engraved with Jack Heuer’s motto “Time never stops, why should we?”

From the back of the watch, the one-hundred eighty-eight owners of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Jack Heuer Birthday Gold Limited Edition will see the caliber’s oscillating mass engraved with Jack Heuer’s motto “Time never stops, why should we?”

Jack Heuer, former Heuer CEO and current TAG Heuer Honorary Chairman.

“I’m very touched that TAG Heuer reimagined my favorite watch for my birthday,” says Jack Heuer, TAG Heuer’s Honorary Chairman. “It reminds me of many dear friends and thrilling years on the race track. I will wear it with pride and look forward to seeing it on the wrist of new generations of daring characters as well.”

Look for the watch in TAG Heuer boutiques and online in February 2021. Can’t wait? TAG Heuer is taking pre-orders now.

Price: $18,450.

 

Specifications: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Jack Heuer Birthday Gold Limited Edition

(Reference: CBN2041.FC8306)

Movement: Caliber Heuer 02 Automatic chronograph with column-wheel, vertical clutch and 80-hours of power reserve. 

Case: 42 mm polished and fine-brushed rose gold, beveled, domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment, rose gold screw-down sapphire caseback with special numbered limited-edition engraving, water resistance to 100 meters.

Dial: Opaline with silver flange and 3 counters:
– 3 o’clock: black “azurage” minute chronograph counter, rose-gold-colored polished hand
– 6 o’clock: permanent second, rose-gold-colored polished hand
– 9 o’clock: black “azurage” hour chronograph counter, rose-gold-colored polished hand
Rose-gold-colored polished applied indexes with white Super-LumiNova, rose-gold-colored polished TAG Heuer applied logo, date display, CARRERA Heuer 02 80 Hours printed on the dial

 Strap: Black alligator leather with black lining, rose gold pin buckle, TAG Heuer logo.

Price: $18,450. The watch is a limited edition of 188 pieces.