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Only Watch 2023 Favorites: TAG Heuer 

We continue to highlight a few of our favorite watches from among the more than sixty watchmakers that have created timepieces for the Only Watch charity auction, which commences Sunday, November 5, in Geneva. Christie’s will auction these incredible one-of-a-kind watches to raise funds that benefit research in the battle against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

While you may have seen a few of the watches set for auction earlier this year when Only Watch announced them, we thought you’d enjoy seeing many of these impressive designs again just ahead of the event.

The watches are currently touring the globe. After concluding their U.S. visit at Christie’s in New York on September 17, the tour will visit Monaco next, followed by stops in Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore, Dubai and back in Geneva. See the Only Watch website for tour dates and details.

In this post we highlight TAG Heuer, which is debuting a unique TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph (above), debuting a brand-new movement. 

TAG Heuer uses a special variation of titanium referred to as Texturized Titanium to create a crystalized effect throughout the case. Constructed using four pieces of sapphire as well, the case allows provides a spectacular dynamic effect as the material catches the light.

TAG Heuer’s Movements Director Carole Kasapi and her team created the new movement inside. The caliber TH81-00 is a mechanical split-seconds chronograph movement, developed in collaboration with Vaucher, the movement is made of titanium and is the lightest automatic chronograph movement ever crafted by TAG Heuer.

The watchmaker worked with Artime artisans to apply a graté damier finish to key parts of the movement, complimented by black polishing, anglage, perlage, and brushed finishing.

The total finishing time exceeded twelve hours. The TAG Heuer shield is applied to the rotor and is adorned with the official colors of Only Watch for 2023, hand painted by André Martinez.

 

Estimate: CHF 150,000 – CHF 300,000.

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TAG Heuer Introduces Monaco Chronograph Night Driver 

TAG Heuer brightens up the dial of its legendary Monaco with the new Monaco Chronograph Night Driver, a 600-piece limited-edition titanium-cased Monaco with a fully luminescent dial.

The new TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Night Driver.

The watchmaker takes full advantage of the Monaco’s two-piece dial construction to create an impressive light show. Designers have added dark gray SuperLuminova to the circle at the center of the dial in order to contrast with the bright hour dots and the blue SuperLuminova hour, minute, and chronograph seconds hand. The dial even incudes brightened minute/seconds hash-marks.

TAG Heuer notes that it was inspired by the midnight blue, charcoal grey and matte black dials of vintage Monacos when designing this new model.

The outside portion of the dial becomes vivid blue at night as the black-lacquered indexes mark the hours. That same blue appears within the chronograph registers, again contrasting with the black minute and hour marks and their hands.

TAG Heuer adds that the wearer can expect the Monaco Chronograph Night Driver dial to retain its luminescence for three hours after being fully charged. 

Also new here is the use of titanium for a Monaco chronograph case. TAG Heuer coats the titanium in black DLC (diamond-like carbon) and finishes its nicely with a fine-brushed and polished finish.

Inside you’ll find TAG Heuer’s in-house Heuer 02 movement with a visible blued column wheel and an impressive eighty hours of power reserve. The watch’s sapphire caseback opens up a view of the blue printing on the black rotor and exhibits the blue column wheel.

TAG Heuer offers the Monaco Chronograph Night Driver Limited Edition as a limited edition of 600, each priced at $9,550.

 
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TAG Heuer Launches Carrera Chronosprint with Porsche

TAG Heuer teams with Porsche to launch the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, the latest Carrera model that merges design elements from both brands.

The seventh joint launch since TAG Heuer and Porsche officially partnered in 2021, the new 42mm watch is a vision in silver and red, with red details highlighting references to the 1970s Porsche 911 dashboard design.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche. A rose-gold-cased version is also available.

Beyond the dial accents, TAG Heuer has also built into the new watch a special version of its new TH20 automatic movement, which debuted this past March during Watches and Wonders.

The new reference here, the TH20-08 movement, features a chronograph seconds hand meant to echo Porsche 911’s ability to reach the 100 km/h in just 9.1 seconds.

Here, the central hand accelerates faster than usual at the start of the chronograph activation thanks to a clever use of a two snail-shaped wheels, which also create a decelerating motion for the central hand after sixty seconds. TAG Heuer makes the wheels using the so-called LiGA lithographic etching process.

On the dial, TAG Heuer continues to reference the Porsche 911.

At 6 o’clock for example you’ll find a subdial that directly recalls the area around 50 km/h that was often highlighted to indicate the recommended speed in urban areas.

The red portion of the 9 o’clock subdial is meant to be a reminder of the ‘critical engine limit.’ TAG Heuer opts to place the red line at 6.8 hours, a nice reference to that 6,800 RPM limit. Red lines on the flange recall the Porsche 911’s ability to reach the 100 km/h in just 9.1 seconds, a clear reference to the very first Porsche 911.

Look for a steel and a gold version of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, each featuring the same retro-inspired double glassbox sapphire crystal seen on Carrera debuts earlier this year.

These domed and curved crystals echo similarly domed hesalite crystal designs from the 1970s, but here have been revamped to add a curve that flows over the tachymeter scale and blends into the case.

From the clear caseback TAG Heuer designs a rotor to replicate the famed Porsche three-spoke steering wheel.

TAG Heuer will launch the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche watches with a calfskin leather strap, in brown for the gold edition and in black for the steel edition, each with an embossed number “911” on the strap.

Prices: $9,200 (steel) and $23,550 (rose gold).

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TAG Heuer Launches Racing Blue Monaco 

TAG Heuer re-affirms its close connection to motorsports with the new Monaco Chronograph Racing Blue Limited Edition, a new edition of the famed square racing chronograph boasting a dial accented in a particularly French shade of blue.

The new TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Blue Limited Edition.

The highlight color of the new Monaco chronograph model is meant to recall the early days of automotive racing when cars were distinguished by their national colors rather than the colors of a manufacturer or sponsor. TAG Heuer’s new Monaco Chronograph Racing Blue also references the hues of automotive brands like Talbot-Lago, Delage and Bugatti.

Thus, TAG Heuer designers colored the sub-dials and strap on the new watch with blue tones, twelve blue markers and rhodium-plated hour and minute hands with blue SuperLumiNova.

This color scheme nicely matches the silvered sunray brushed dial said to recall the engine-turned dashboards of sports cars in the 1920s and 1930s. A hard-to-miss yellow stripe announces the chronograph central hand and the faceted baton marker at 12 o’clock.

Inside the 39mm titanium case TAG Heuer fits its modernized automatic Calibre 11 chronograph movement, which is visible through the clear sapphire caseback.

The watchmaker decorates the back of the watch with a “One of 1000” engraving that details the number of watches available in this TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Blue Limited Edition series.

TAG Heuer supplies a perforated blue calfskin strap with the watch. It’s linked to the wrist with a titanium folding clasp decorated with an engraved Heuer logo.

Price: $9,200.

 

Specifications: TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Blue (CAW218C.FC6548, a limited edition of 1,000) 

 

Movement: TAG Heuer Calibre 11 Automatic (Sellita base) powering hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph.

Dial: Silver sunray brushed with 2 blue opalin counters, angled date, rhodium plated, polished applied indexes, rhodium-plated hour and minute hands with blue SuperLumiNova, lime yellow lacquered central hand, black HEUER printed logo.

Case: 39mm grade 2 titanium sandblasted, beveled, domed sapphire crystal, titanium crown, sapphire caseback, water resistance to 100 meters.

Bracelet: Blue perforated calfskin strap with grade 2 titanium folding clasp with double safety pushbuttons. 

Price: $9,200. 

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TAG Heuer Revives the Carrera Skipper 

TAG Heuer revives its Carrera Skipper this week, four decades after the colorful regatta countdown timer disappeared from the watchmaker’s line-up.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper.

Returning as a 39mm steel watch, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper retains its brightly colored dress, sporting a circular-brushed blue primary dial with sub-dials in contrasting teal, green and orange.

The new model also features the Carrera’s new bezel-free ‘glassbox’ design with a broader sapphire crystal and curved flange dial, a combination that extends the viewing angle for the dial.

The new Skipper also retains many of the design features that marked the original, including large triangle-shaped markers at five-minute intervals around the outer curved flange, a bright orange central seconds hand and the Skipper name emblazoned at the base of the 12-hour counter. The new model adds a date to the dial.

New Series

The launch is just the start of a maritime revival for the watchmaker. TAG Heuer says it plans to create a new series of nautical watches led by the revived Carrera Skipper. The series will “mark TAG Heuer’s return to the world of yachts and yachting,” according to the watchmaker.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper (right) with the original from 1968.

TAG Heuer’s involvement in yacht racing starts in the 1940s, but the Skipper’s history commenced after the 1967 America’s Cup. That’s when Jack Heuer provided with winning yacht, the Intrepid, with a set of hand-held yachting stop watches and equipped her crew with Aquastar wrist watches featuring a customized countdown timer made of a red and white disc that rotated behind a series of five holes.

To celebrate that win, Heuer created the Skipper chronograph in 1968 with a 30-minute subdial that was adapted to count-down the fifteen-minute regatta ‘pre-start’ in three, five-minute segments. Later versions of the Skipper used the Autavia case, according to TAG Heuer, though the very first examples were based on the Carrera chronograph.

TAG Heuer is powering the new Carrera Skipper with its TH20-06 movement that boasts bi-directional winding and an impressive 80-hour power reserve.

Price: $6,750.

 

Specifications: TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper 

(CBS2213.FN6002) 

Movement: Caliber TH20-06 automatic displaying hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph 

Dial: Blue circular brushed. Blue flange with 60 second / minute scale 3 counters: 

 – 3 o’clock: green, orange & teal color lacquered 15-minute count-down
indicator; rhodium plated polished hand
–  6 o’clock: blue permanent second indicator; rhodium plated polished hand
–  9 o’clock: teal color lacquered hour chronograph counter; SKIPPER printed;
rhodium plated polished hand.

Rhodium-plated facetted, polished applied indexes, rhodium-plated facetted, polished hour and minute hands with white SuperLumiNova and orange lacquered triangle-shaped tip. Orange lacquered central hand 6 o’clock angled date

Case: 39mm by 13.9mm fine brushed and polished steel, bezel free construction, ‘glassbox’ domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment. Water resistance is 100 meters.

Bracelet: Blue fabric strap with polished steel folding clasp with double safety pushbuttons

Price: $6,750.

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