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By Laurent Martinez

The wonderful thing about the love of watches and horology is that you learn something new every day. You can learn about amazing companies, industry insiders, collectors, watchmakers and watches by reading books and articles, listening to podcasts, watching YouTube videos, and of course, talking with fellow enthusiasts. 

Oftentimes, you hear the same names—the famous watchmakers that have left a legacy behind or big brands that everyone wants.

However, sometimes you come across an unfamiliar name that’s worth learning about.

I was recently listening to John Reardon’s Collectability podcast, which focuses on Patek Philippe, while also reading George Daniels’ book about Abraham-Louis Breguet. As you likely already know, Breguet is recognized as one of the very best watchmakers of all time; he was also an excellent businessman who was ahead of his time.

In the book, Daniels explained that many collectors may be disappointed to learn that Breguet only built a few timepieces himself. He actually had a team of exceptional watchmakers to whom he gave a lot of freedom to develop and manufacture watches and clocks. Breguet would then inspect each piece to validate the work before sending them to clients.

A friend of mine, who is a watchmaker specializing in servicing grand complication pocket watches made by A. Lange & Söhne, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and other high horology brands, told me that he wanted to show me a watch signed “Louis Raby” and find out if I knew that name.

Who was Louis Raby?

The truth is, little is known in detail about watchmaker Louis Raby. I reached out to the archive of Napoleon III The Empereur in Compiegne, France, hoping to get some information. Unfortunately, they could not tell me anything.

His name appears in Dictionnaire des Horlogers Francais published by Tardy as “Raby – succeda a A. Benoit a Versailles.” In 1867, “il exposa une montre en aluminum” (he exhibited a watch in aluminum), which was an extremely rare and difficult metal to use and work with during the nineteen century.

Between the author G. H. Baillie (who wrote the book Watchmakers and Clockmakers Of the World), publisher Tardy, and one other spelling variation (Rabi), it can be pieced together that Louis Raby was the third or fourth generation of a watchmaking family working in Paris for approximately a century and a half.

In the book The Art of Breguet by George Daniels, he describes Louis Raby as being one of Breguet’s most talented pupils, surpassing even the Master in the execution of his own pendule sympathique. More details can be read in that book on pages 90 and 180.

A Breguet Pendule Sympathique from 1814.

Fine finishing

After doing this research, I sensed that Louis Raby had a lot of credentials and that his work would be spectacular. My intuition was correct; when I saw the Louis Raby pocket watch in person, it was magnificent. Even my friend Don Loke, who was the former head of the technical department at Breguet, was speechless upon seeing the quality of the watch. He said it was, “one of the finest finished watches from the 1800s that I have ever seen.”

The Louis Raby piece in question is a splendid quarter repeater pocket watch with an instantaneous jump calendar with day, date, month, and moon phase. It is also the first pocket watch Don saw with a gold train through the repeating mechanism.

The level of quality and work on this 300-plus-part timepiece is outstanding. Don details the hard fire enamel white dial, followed by the blue enamel moon phase disk. In this video, Don presents the watch in detail including all parts of the movement. It is a real journey of beauty.

What makes these timepieces so valuable is a compilation of many things, but mostly name (provenance), complication, dial, screws, and quality. This was probably a pocket watch commissioned by the Emperor since the quality of the work is so remarkable. Don shares how he services a watch and the process he follows. It is a work of art. In the video he shows us how to put back the dial and hands – and the meticulous work it takes to do it.

I invite you to watch the video to not only discover this astonishing piece but also find how a watchmaker services a timepiece by walking us through the complexity and precision of timepieces. The video ends with the presentation of his next project and introduces us to his watch collection called D Loke, which includes his double escapement patent.

 

Laurent Martinez is the proprietor of Laurent Fine Watches, Greenwich, Connecticut. Read more by him at blog.laurentfinewatches.com or visit his store’s site at www.laurentfinewatches.com

 

On the seventieth anniversary of its groundbreaking Fifty Fathoms dive watch, Blancpain unveils the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa, a new dive watch with a bezel that makes it possible to measure immersion times of up to three hours.

The new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa.

The bezel, and an accompanying hand that completes one revolution in three hours, combine to form an innovative new dive watch tool. Blancpain CEO Marc A. Hayek and diver and photographer Laurent Bellesta have filed for a patent for the mechanism at the heart of the new watch, which Blancpain first began to develop in 2019.

Blancpain launches the new watch as it also celebrates the tenth anniversary of Gombessa , an undersea research initiative that Bellesta and Blancpain helped create in 2013. The Tech Gombessa also marks the launch of a new line in Blancpain’s dive watch collection. 

Longer immersions

Bancpain explains that since the first Fifty Fathoms diver immersion times have notably extended, with the most experienced divers now capable of spending several hours underwater. Hayek and Ballesta devised the new three-hour timing mechanism to “meet the needs of all extreme divers, starting with the members of the Gombessa Expeditions whose research work involves long- duration deep dives.”

With an exterior that fits within the existing Fifty Fathoms family, the Tech Gombessa is nonetheless loaded with technical tweaks. 

Inside the 47 mm Grade 23 titanium case demonstrating 300 meters of water resistance, Blancpain fits a new movement, automatic Caliber 13P8 with an impressive five-day power reserve. In addition, Blancpain created a black ceramic bezel inlay instead of the traditional sapphire, which has been given a stronger curve and tilt (towards the dial).

Blancpain has also endowed the Tech Gombessa dial with a new ‘absolute black’ finish said to capture almost 97% of the light. The watch’s hour-markers luminescent block-shaped orange appliques with blue luminescence, colors that differentiate between time-related information and diving times. 

As with all Fifty Fathoms timepieces, the crown is screwed down, though here it is protected by a new crown guard with a trapeze-shaped design to match the watch’s new lug shape.

From the back, the wearer can see the new movement’s anthracite-colored oscillating weight, stamped with the Gombessa Expeditions logo, and which itself is given three large openings to better spy the movement. 

Finally, Blancpain will supply the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa with a black rubber strap screwed to the back of the lugs. The strap is reinforced with titanium and is teamed with an extension for wearing the watch over a diving suit.

Owners will also receive the watch in a special water-tight presentation box that houses a rest for the watch, the strap extension, a travel pouch, a magnifying glass, as well as a set of dividers and cutting tools.

Price: $28,000.

Specifications: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa

Case: 47mm grade 23 titanium, helium valve, central lugs attached from the inside of the case middle.

Dial: Absolute black, luminescent orange block-shaped appliques with blue emission, unidirectional 3-hour scale bezel with black ceramic inlay tilted towards the dial with white luminescent green markers, 3-hour dive-time hand.

Movement: Caliber 13P8, self-winding with 5-day power reserve.

Bracelet: Integrated black rubber strap with extension.

Price:$28,000.

 

Wempe teams with British ship designer Tim Heywood to launch two new marine chronometers for yachts: The Wempe Marine Chronometer Cube by Tim Heywood and the Marine Chronometer Coco de Mer by Tim Heywood,

Wempe has made such instruments for seagoing vessels since 1905, and the new series adds a modern twist to the so-called ‘unified chronometers.’

The Wempe Marine Chronometer by Tim Heywood.

Heywood has equipped the two new clocks with large blue dials and contemporary typography. But perhaps the most revealing addition to the series are two openings at 4 and 8 o’clock that allow the ship’s captain and visitors a view of the Wempe Type 07 mechanical movement through the dial.

The new Wempe Marine Chronometer Coco de mer by Tim Heywood.

In addition, both new clocks are topped with highly domed clear borosilicate glass crystal. Twelve meridian lines radiate from the center of the glass and continue onto the wide, curved glass back.

Wempe notes that while the clock is turned over to be manually wound by key, the gimbal of the gold-plated brass case takes center stage and looks much like an abstract sculpture.

The movement offers a maximum rate variation of only 0.3 seconds per day while maintaining fifty-six hours of power reserve.

You’ll see an elaborate chain-and-fusée assembly through the clear case of each clock that ensures that the energy the mainspring feeds to the gear train remains constant.

The dark brown case of the Marine Chronometer Cube can be ceremonially opened using its three folding doors. The case for this model includes a gold-plated time zone map in the lid plus sixteen coats of varnishing and hand polishing. Price: $57,460. 

Heywood chose the curvy, feminine three-part case of the Marine Chronometer Coco de Mer in part because of the fact that ships are the only objects referred to using feminine pronouns in the English language.

Wempe explains that the case is also modeled after a coconut, which “can traverse enormous distances at sea unscathed, making it a perfect symbol for marine chronometry.”

Wempe coats the top of this model’s lid with bronze while the inside boasts gold leaf. Like its partner clock, the case is coated with sixteen layers of varnish. This marine chronometer is limited to fifty numbered pieces. Price: $91,825. 

Bell & Ross updates its hot BR 05 Skeleton collection with a new steel edition that glows with a warm gold coloring and soothing amber accents.

The new Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Golden.

The new BR 05 Skeleton Golden is seemingly bathed in its namesake hue thanks to a galvanized gold-colored flange just inside the round dial opening. A gold-tinted translucent dial panel is topped with gold-colored and luminescent (green) hands and indexes to underscore the color theme.

The new model is just the latest in a series Bell & Ross launched in 2019 with its first all-steel BR 05 Skeleton, which was followed by different steel variations: the Skeleton Blue in 2020, the NightLum in 2021 and the Skeleton Green in 2022.

As with all of Bell & Ross’s BR 05 ‘round within square” watches, this newest skeleton model features a 40mm diameter steel case, a flat sapphire crystal, and a satin-brushed steel bezel fixed by four polished steel screws.

Seen from the side, the watch’s multi-level construction becomes evident. Its middle case middle is nicely polished with two 45° bevels and is then satin-brushed on both sides. 

Bell & Ross has always allowed its automatic calibers a full showing with a sapphire crystal back, which emphasizes the brand’s customized 360° oscillating weight. The rotor powers a skeletonized BR-CAL.322, a Sellita-based automatic caliber.

Bell & Ross connects the BR 05 Skeleton Golden to the wrist with either with a highly integrated, 1970s-style steel bracelet with alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces, or a rubber strap in a matching amber color. The watchmaker offers this effervescent new model as a limited edition of 500 pieces.

Prices: $6,600 on the rubber strap and $7,100 on the steel bracelet.

Vacheron Constantin adds a new ‘panda’-styled chronograph to its sporty Overseas collection in a nod to the chronographs of 1960s motorsports.

The new Vacheron Constantin ‘Panda’ Overseas Chronograph.

The new 42.5mm steel chronograph features a silver-toned, sunburst satin-finished dial, snailed black counters, black-velvet-finished flange, 18-karat white gold hour-markers and hands. All hands are finished with a generous dollop of SuperLuminova.

The contrasting light-dark dial styling of the so-called panda dials was aimed at enhancing the visibility of the chronograph function.

Inside the watch Vacheron Constantin fits its superb automatic Caliber 5200 that boasts twin barrels, a column wheel and vertical clutch.

The movement also features a 22-karat gold oscillating weight adorned with a wind rose, visible through the watch’s sapphire caseback.

Like all Overseas models since Vacheron Constantin launched its much-touted 2016 re-design, the new model is also sold with an interchangeable bracelet and two straps to allow the wearer to easily swap styles as desired without the need for tools. Price: $32,400.

Specifications: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph ‘Panda’

(Ref. 5500V/110A-B686) 

Movement: Caliber 5200 self-winding with 22-karat gold Overseas oscillating weight, approximately 52 hours of power reserve, 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour), Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece. 

Case: 42.5mm by 13.7mm steel, soft iron casing ring ensuring anti-magnetic protection, screwed-down crown and quarter-turn screw-lock push-pieces, transparent sapphire crystal caseback,
water-resistant to 150 meters.

Dial: Silver-toned, sunburst satin-finished base, translucent varnish, black velvet-finished flange and snailed counters, 18-karat white gold hour-markers and hours, minutes, seconds and counters hands, highlighted with Super-LumiNova.

Bracelet: Steel bracelet, half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links, black calfskin leather with grey stitching, black rubber. Stainless steel bracelet secured by a stainless steel triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and comfort-adjustment system, delivered with a stainless steel triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and patented interchangeable system compatible with both additional straps. 

Price: $32,400.