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The Watches

Bulova Expands Classic Collection 

Bulova adds a handsome new automatic pocket watch and new automatic and quartz tank models to its vintage-themed Classic collection. All the new additions are inspired by Bulova’s own Sutton series from the early 20th century.

The new Bulova Classic pocket watch, with skeletonized automatic movement.

Pocket watch

The new pocket watch, offered in either silver-tone or gold-tone styles, measures 50mm in diameter and features an eye-catching skeletonized automatic Miyota movement with a 42-hour power reserve. 

The watch’s polished steel case and snap-open case back is nicely vertical-brush finished, recalling graceful, vintage styling of an earlier age.

Particularly note that the case’s architectural lines continue onto the watch’s chain, which includes a signature Bulova tuning fork clasp. Bulova makes the watch in either silver with blue-tone Roman numerals and markers or with a luxurious gold tone case and accents and grey Roman numerals and markers. Prices: $595-$695.

Sutton Tank models

Bulova’s new Sutton tank watches include one 33mm x 49mm rectangle stainless steel automatic model that boasts a new bracelet.

Made with a two tone design (silver-tone and gold-tone finish) with textured white dial, curved mineral crystal and an open aperture between the 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions.

The new Bulova Sutton Automatic tank watch, with a new bracelet.

Within that space we see the escapement of the 82SO Miyota automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve.

Placed on a matching two-tone silver and gold stainless steel bracelet, the watch sells for $550.

Also new are two quartz-powered tank watches, each measuring a smaller 21mm x 32.5mm size, and each featuring a stainless steel case with gold-tone finish, mother-of-pearl dial and curved mineral crystal.

One of two new quartz-powered Bulova tank models.

One model offers a diamond accented dial and is set on an alligator grain strap with matching stitching ($350).

The second version featuring Roman numeral accents and is set on a two-tone silver and gold stainless steel bracelet ($395). Bulova fits both the strap and bracelet version quick-release spring bars to allow for easy interchangeability.

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Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts On Exhibit in Geneva and Paris

In Geneva next month Patek Philippe will present to the public nearly sixty new clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches that make up its Rare Handcrafts collection for 2022. The Exhibit will then move to a location in Paris in May.

The full collection, including fifteen dome table clocks, nine miniature dome table clocks, ten pocket watches and twenty-five wristwatches, will first be exhibited at Patek Philippe’s historic headquarters on Rue du Rhone starting April 6 until April 23.

The collection, which Patek Phillip expands annually, includes pieces made using a wide range of artisanal skills. These include grand feu cloisonné enamel, miniature painting on enamel (a genuine Genevan specialty), manual engraving, manual guilloching and paillonné enamel. Even rarely seen skills such as wood micro-marquetry and Longwy enameling, will also be on display.

In addition, visitors can also watch masters of their art demonstrating tradition-steeped techniques.

Among the topics of this year’s pieces are several objects directly related to Geneva.

The “Bol d’Or” Dome table clock in cloisonné and paillonné enamel shows a famous regatta on Lake Geneva.

One is the dome table clock 20118M Bol d’Or in cloisonné and paillonné enamel, created as a reminder of the seven trophies that the manufacture’s honorary president Philippe Stern won at the Lake of Geneva regatta.

Another piece, the pocket watch 995/130G-001 Swan, shows a Genevan bird in wood micro-marquetry.

The Swan Pocket watch with case back in wood marquetry and enameled dial with hand-engraved hands.

The Rare Handcrafts 2022 exhibition at the Patek Philippe Salons on Rue du Rhône 41 is open to the public every day except Sundays from April 6 to 23, 2022, from 11 am to 6 pm. Visitors are requested to preregister online at the patek.com website starting on March 28, 2022.

Front side of the Patek Philippe Swan pocket watch with case back in wood marquetry, showing enameled dial with hand-engraved hands.

Patek Philippe will also present the exhibit in Paris from May 14 to 22 in a gallery on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré 85.

 

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The Watches

Parmigiani Fleurier Unveils La Rose Carrée, an Artisanal Grande Sonnerie

In the late 1990s Michel Parmigiani, founder of Parmigiani Fleurier, acquired a late 19th century grande sonnerie and minute repeater movement created by famed watchmaker Louis-Elisée Piguet.

That complicated movement, which was never encased in a pocket watch, remained on Parmigiani’s to-do list for restoration until earlier this year when Guido Terreni, the company’s newly named CEO, embarked on a project to help the brand celebrate its twenty-fifth anniversary.

Terreni and Parmigiani quickly enlisted the Piguet movement as the heart of the project.

The Parmigiani Fleurier La Rose Carrée, a deeply artisanal grand sonnerie.

After nearly a year of painstaking restoration and artisanal craftsmanship, the Fleurier-based watchmaker has released the La Rose Carrée, a 64mm white gold double hunter pocket watch with the fully restored Piguet caliber set within a newly designed case coated in translucent grand feu enamel.

Named after the Rose Carrée or “squared rose” engraved pattern seen on the case and movement, the one-of-a-kind watch Is coated by three or four layers of blue grand feu enamel (applied by artistic enameller Vanessa Lecci) to add depth and rich color to the engraving work.

According to Terreni, the square roses pattern found throughout the watch follows the Golden Spiral, a derivative of the Golden Ratio, which has long been favored by Michel Parmigiani.

One cover opens to reveal the black onyx dial, white gold hands and a small-seconds subdial outlined in white gold. The second cover opens to frame the beautifully engraved movement with a mainplate and the bridges displaying the thematic Rose Carrée pattern.

The grande sonnerie and minute repeater movement, pictured here after restoration, was created at the end of the 19th century by Louis-Elisée Piguet.

 

Notable too is the blue-sapphire-set crown and an unusual square-link chain entirely handcrafted by Swiss traditional chain maker Laurent Jolliet.

For additional detail and a video about La Rose Carrée, check out the Parmigiani Fleurier website.

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