Ochs und Junior

With the new Mese 2.22, boasting an unusual, minimalist analog date display, independent Swiss watchmaker Ochs und Junior launches its first watch with a PVD dial.

On the watch’s unusual blue PVD dial (and module) you’ll see white indexes, white hands and a white date indicator dot, which cleverly replaces the traditional date display window style.

The new Ochs und Junior Ochs Line Mese 2.22.

Each dot is actually a hole exposing a white SuperLuminova disc below. The viewer determines the date simply by noting which dot around the dial perimeter is white. Using the ten-minute markers as easy reference points, the full 30-day month is indicated via the 31 dots.

Designer Ludwig Oechslin created the indicator by arranging the holes in a gentle spiral, with the 31st hole overlapping the first. A curved dash on the disk below the dial ensures that only one of the two holes will indicate the date at the start of the month (either the 1st or the 31st), but not both at the same time.

The dial and module for the Ochs und Junior Ochs Line Mese 2.22.

The time is read in the traditional manner. The exact minute and seconds can be read by the ring of holes spaced at two-minute intervals. These perforations mark even-numbered minutes while the adjoining spaces denote odd-numbered minutes. (Check out this video of Oechslin explaining the date spiral for his perpetual calendar, which is also relevant for this Mese model.)

La Chaux-de-Fonds-based Ochs und Junior was founded in 2006 by renowned scholar and watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin, alongside Kurt König, managing director of Swiss watch retailer Embassy, and Beat Weinmann.

The Ochs und Junior Mese 1.22 debuted this past April.

This newest Ochs und Junior Ochs Line Mese 2.22, a 39mm titanium watch, follows the earlier Mese 1.22 debut in April. It highlights a new ‘Yves-Klein blue’ in PVD made by Positive Coating, La Chaux-de-Fonds. Ochs und Junior pairs the bright new color with blue-black Ecopell Enzian Nappa leather strap, handmade by Berne-based designer Sabina Brägger.

Inside, Oechslin’s module is paired with an automatic ETA 2824-2, and both are fit within the two-part titanium case designed by Ludwig Oechslin with visible machining marks. Price: CHF 3,500.

The Settimana Raw Brass is the newest exercise in pure minimalism from Ochs und Junior. The independent watchmaker launched a silver-dialed version of the watch late in 2021, and this latest edition adds a raw brass dial to the series, which is being offered in 36mm and 40mm titanium-cased options.

The new Ochs und Junior Settimana Raw Brass, available in 36mm and 40mm sizes.

Oechslin’s seven-component module meshes with a Sellita automatic movement and is simplicity at work. It consists of the brass dial with a functional back, a gear with weekday display (point), a triple function wheel and a transmission wheel.

In addition to indicating the time in hours, minutes and seconds via the hands, the dial also indicates the days of week via a black dot that rotates clockwise between the 1 o’clock and the 7 o’clock positions. The dot rotates from 1 o’clock (Monday) to 7 o’clock (Sunday). At the beginning of the week, the dot moves quickly to cover the 8 o’clock to 12 o’clock segment, restarting the new week each Monday morning.

Ochs und Junior artisans coat the hands and the rotating dot (day indicator) with black SuperLuminova.

Oeschlin also designed the case, using two titanium parts. In keeping with the overall industrial feel to the collection, artisans leave visible machining and milling traces on the case. An Oeschlin-designed crown and buckle complete the package.

The watch is fitted with a black Cordura strap and a leather case, both handmade by designer Sabina Brägger. Price: CHF 2,215 (36mm or 40mm titanium case).

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