Tag

mechanical watch

Browsing

Ralph Lauren expands its square-cased Art Deco 867 collection with four slightly smaller models and also adds precious metal cases and top-notch manual-wind movements to the collection’s offerings.

One of four new watches in the Ralph Lauren 867 collection. This 28mm model is cased in sterling silver.

The new models add two new case sizes to the collection with two 32mm models and two 28mm models. Both are offered in sterling silver or rose gold cases. The collection had previously only offered 35mm square-cased steel models.

These elegant, time-only designs echo Art Deco era glamour with nicely proportioned lacquered white dials made with concentric squares with Arabic and Roman numerals and sleek Breguet-style hands.

All the new models are powered by an extra-flat mechanical manual winding Swiss movement made for Ralph Lauren by Piaget and based on the watchmaker’s legendary Caliber 430. The movements are hand finished with vertical Côtes de Genève stripes and circular graining (perlage).

Ralph Lauren fits each watch with an interchangeable shiny black alligator strap with a sterling silver or 18-karat rose gold pin buckle. 

Prices: $8,250 (28mm silver case), $15,500 (28mm rose gold case), $8,350 (32mm silver case) and $17,000 (32mm rose gold case).

Parmigiani Fleurier has expanded on the work done for last year’s impressive unique-piece La Rose Carrée pocket watch to create the unique-piece La Rosa Celeste, the first minute-repeater wristwatch within a new five-piece Les Roses Carrées collection.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Rosa Celeste.

You may recall that a year ago the luxury watchmaker celebrated its twenty-fifth anniversary with the release of the La Rose Carrée pocket watch, a unique minute repeater based on a Louis-Elysée Piguet caliber that had been restored in Parmigiani Fleurier’s workshops.

The new Rosa Celeste offers a 42mm white gold case that is hand-engraved with the same motif found on the 2021 pocket watch, and also includes a hunter’s caseback. The  back and the chiseled dial of the new watch are finished with richly detailed blue grand feu enamel, a painstaking artisanal process that requires multiple high-temperature firings.

The skeletonization of the PF355 caliber is directly inspired by that of the PF361 caliber, known as Chronor.

For the repeater, Parmigiani Fleurier chose to create cathedral gongs. Here, the chime has been optimized by a suspended movement and with the heel of the gongs physically connected to the case. In addition, watchmakers have redesigned the case to create resonance pockets and to lighten the white gold mass.

The outer face of the caseback bears a large square fractal Rose, also hand-engraved and covered with multiple layers of blue enamel.

Unusually, Parmigiani Fleurier watchmakers have also devised a ringing sequence automatically skips dead time. For example, at 3:19, the three chimes for the hour are immediately followed by a double chime for the quarter-hour and again, without silence, by up to four chimes for the minute.

The beautifully skeletonized PF355 caliber also features an unusually long 72-hour power reserve. Parmigiani Fleurier mounts the new La Rosa Celeste on a blue, hand-sewn alligator leather strap.

Price: CHF 600,000. 

Specifications: Parmigiani Fleurier La Rosa Celeste

Movement: PF355 manual wind with minute repeater on cathedral gongs, continuous chiming sequence. Power reserve: 72 hours, 21,600 Vph (3 Hz). Finishings: Côtes de Genève, openworked bridges, hand-beveling and circular graining.

Case: 42mm by 13.39mm white gold, polished and hand-engraved with “La Rose Carrée” pattern, crown topped with cabochon-cut natural sapphire, sapphire crystal and back. The Hunter caseback is white gold, hand-engraved with “La Rose Carée” pattern, Grand feu enamel, interior engraving, “Rosa Celeste”, “PF” seal and Michel Parmigiani’s signature. Caseback engraving serial number, “Parmigiani Fleurier,” Swiss Made, and ‘Pièce unique’. Water resistance: 10 meters.

Dial: Hand-engraved with chiseled pattern, blue “Grand feu” enamel, hand-applied indices, 18-karat gold and rhodium-plated appliques, hours and minutes hands in 18-karat gold, rhodium-plated, skeletonized and delta-shaped.

Bracelet: Blue alligator leather strap, double-sided, hand-stitched with 18-karat white gold pin buckle with hand-engraved “La Rose Carée” pattern.

Price: CHF 600,000. 

New York-based Massena LAB has teamed with independent Swiss watchmaker Raúl Pagès to develop its first proprietary movement, the M660, which will be placed into a new limited edition watch called the Magraph.

The Massena LAB Magraph.

The Bauhaus-inspired manual-wind watch features a geometric-patterned, off-white dial with bright blued hour, minute and seconds hands. Massena LAB frames the dial with a 38.5mm stainless steel case made to echo designs from the 1940s and 1950s.

The M660 movement is a manual-winding 4Hz movement with a power reserve of 48 hours. Pagès has finished the caliber with Côtes de Genève finishing and hand-chamfered plates and bridges, all of which are visible through its sapphire caseback. The watchmaker has hidden his signature flourish, a silhouette of a tortoise, under the balance wheel.

Massena LAB, founded by collector and watch expert William Massena, has attached a special strap to each Magraph. The deep indigo strap is made from sustainably-sourced sturgeon skin and features eye-catching iridescent turquoise accents, designed exclusively for Massena LAB by Jean Rousseau Paris.

Delivery of the Magraph will be on a first-come, first-served basis, starting in December 2022. Massena LAB will produce approximately fifteen to twenty watches produced per month. Each will include a two-year guarantee, box, deerskin travel pouch, papers, and a Massena LAB NFC card. Limited to only 99 examples, the Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès Magraph will be for sale exclusively on MassenaLAB.com.

Price: $8,675.

Patek Philippe launched three variations to its hot Nautilus (including a white gold successor to its retired Ref. 5711) and extended its collection of complicated chronographs as part of an eight-piece debut this week.

The new Ref. 5811/1G-001 Nautilus features a case and bracelet in white gold as well as a blue sunburst dial with a black gradation. Price is $69,785.

While the new Nautilus debuts garnered much of the initial attention, it’s the new set of chronographs that attract collectors of Patek Philippe’s legendary (and less commodified) complications. (Read all about the trio of new Nautilus models, including the 41mm successor to the Ref. 5711 , on the Patek Philippe site.)

The chronographs

And among those chronograph debuts, look no further than the new Ref. 5373P-001, a split-seconds mono-pusher chronograph with perpetual calendar, for some true novelty. The watch differs from its predecessor (Ref. 5372) with newly inverted displays, pushers and crown.

New Patek Philippe Ref. 5373P-001, a split-seconds mono-pusher chronograph with perpetual calendar, differs from its predecessor (Ref. 5372) with inverted displays, pushers and crown.

Made for specifically “for the right-hand wrists of left-handers,” according to the watchmaker, the new 38.3mm platinum-cased watch is a premiere design for the company.

Patek Philippe notes however that a 1927 one-of-a-kind watch inspired the design of the new model. Like the earlier watch, the new watch features its integrated chronograph monopusher at the 9 o’clock position with the split-seconds pusher set, unusually, at 8 o’clock.

The sporty red, black  and grey dial on the Ref. 5373P-001 is cleverly finished with a black gradation at its edge, framing snailed ebony-black subsidiary dials.

The watch’s beautifully finished caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q, still the thinnest split-seconds chronograph movement with perpetual calendar ever produced by the manufacture, can be admired through the sapphire-crystal display back, which is interchangeable with the solid-platinum back delivered with the watch. Among the many caseback highlights is a view of the movement’s two column wheels with their two polished caps.

Finally, like all of Patek Philippe’s platinum watches, the new Ref. 5373P-001 features a brilliant cut diamond on its case. But here Patek Philippe flips the diamond’s location, placing it at the 12 o’clock position rather than at the 6 o’clock position. Price Upon Request. 

The new Patek Philippe Ref. 5204G-001 split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar.

Split Seconds, right side

Also with a split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar, the new Ref. 5204G-001, with its standard, right-side crown and two pushers,  features a 40mm white gold case and an olive-green sunburst dial. The watch complements a version released last year with a slate-grey dial and a rose-gold case. Price Upon Request. 

The new Patek Philippe Ref. 5935A-001 self-winding World Time flyback chronograph stands out with its sporty vintage looks.

World Timer

In a premiere steel case, the Patek Philippe’s new Ref. 5935A-001 World Time flyback chronograph (with automatic caliber CH 28-520 HU) is bound to please collectors in search of steel Patek Philippe watches as well as those who covet its world timers.

A stunning rose-gold dial appears vintage while the ‘carbon’ motif’ dial interior is decidedly contemporary. That dial center is a reference to the 2020 limited edition inaugural model Patek Philippe’s newest manufacturing facility in Geneva. Patek Philippe includes two calfskin straps (grained taupe and beige with a velvet-like nubuck finish), each secured with stainless steel fold-over clasps. Price: $63,871.

 

The Ref. 7968:300R-001 Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” chronograph in rose gold.

Luce Chronograph

Patek Philippe adds an automatic chronograph to its contemporary Aquanaut Luce collection for the first time, and then decorates the watch (Ref. 7968-300R-001) with a rainbow of sapphires and diamonds. Cased in 39.9mm rose gold, the watch’s white mother-of-pearl dial is engraved with an Aquanaut pattern as baguette multi-colored sapphires mark the hours alongside gold applied numerals. Price: $212,900. 

The new Ref. 5990-1A-011 Nautilus Travel Time chronograph is one of Patek Philippe’s rare steel watches.

Travel Time

Patek Philippe has debuted a steel-cased Travel Time model with an eye-catching blue dial with a radiant sunburst finish and a subtle black gradation. The new Ref. 5990/1A-011 Travel Time is powered by automatic caliber CH 28-520 C FUS, which combines a flyback chronograph, a Travel Time function (two time zones with two separate hour hands; the skeletonized hand shows home time) and an analog date synchronized with local time. Price: $68,603.

Bucherer adds watches from Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie and L’Epée to its Bucherer Blue series of customized, limited edition models.

All are finished in the Bucherer Blue color, meant to reflect its place in the watch retailer’s collection of custom-made, similarly hued watches made in partnership with a wide range of Swiss watchmakers. Each watch will be available as a limited edition of eighteen pieces.

The new Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue.

Girard-Perregaux

The new Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue builds on this watchmakers’s Neo series, a contemporary version of its famed Tourbillon with Three Bridges.

The watch is cased in titanium and features a trio of blued bridges also made from titanium. The three bridges not only support the geartrain, barrel and tourbillon, but also act as the mainplate. This design creates the impression that the bridges are floating.

Girard-Perregaux fits the 44mm case between two sapphire crystal glass boxes, which enhances the transparency – and the modernity – of the piece. Price: $167,000.

The H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue.

H. Moser & Cie. 

Independent watchmaker H. Moser sets its Deco-styled Streamliner Tourbillon with sixty baguette-cut blue sapphires (2.90 carats), apparently the first gemstone setting for this award-winning series.

Fit with the superb HMC 804 caliber, which features a flying tourbillon with double hairspring and a three-day power reserve, the watch also features a Moser fumé dial, set within the Streamliner’s 40mm steel case with integrated steel bracelet with articulated links.

The watch is the first Streamliner limited edition H. Moser has created for a partner. Price: $119,000.

The new L’Epée Time Fast Bucherer Blue.

L’Epée 1839 

The new L’Epée Time Fast Bucherer Blue combines the independent Swiss clockmaker’s existing Time Fast series with Bucherer’s blue hue. L’Epée’s design is meant to evoke memories of a 1950s-era single-seater race car.

Under the hood L’Epee builds a tiered movement with an eight-day power reserve shaped to the bodywork.

The user winds the 15-inch-long clock the same way a mechanical motor is wound in a pull-back toy car. The hours and minutes are displayed on the side through an aperture resembling a typical competition number, via two engraved stainless steel disks. Price: $34,000.