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Porsche Design revives a late-1970s military flyback chronograph with the new Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition, the watchmaker’s first titanium carbide chronograph not connected to a specific Porsche sports car.

The new Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition.

By making the new watch using a titanium carbide case instead of a steel case like the original model, Porsche Design makes the chronograph’s case more scratch-resistant, much lighter and hypoallergenic.

But by remaking the matte black dial and using same easy-to-read font of the original, the watchmaker has created a technically updated ode to that 1979 design. 

While the dial of the historical model (which was made for the flying squadron of the U.S. Air Force) featured a tiger’s head, the new watch offers a screaming marmot image between 4 o’clock and 5 o’clock.

The “Mankei” (marmot) name on the dial also refers to the Mankeiwirt, Ferdi Porsche’s newly opened destination for car enthusiasts located near Studio F. A. Porsche in Zell am See, Austria. 

In addition to the font and technical features, the Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition also pays homage to its historical model in several other ways. 

A new “TiC” logo is placed in the characteristic position between 1 and 2 o’clock on the dial referencing the use of titanium carbide, and is a modern reinterpretation of the 3H symbol (for tritium) of the military model. Tritium is here replaced by bright blue SuperLuminova.

The watch also features the historic Porsche Design logo on the dial and winding crown. Two dots on the dial at 12 o’clock provide a clear orientation of the displays in the dark.

The new watch (right) with the original model from 1979.

There are few differences of course, most critically the new movement and the larger case size. Originally 38mm, the new watch measures 42.7mm in diameter.

The watch is powered by a COSC-certified Porsche Design WERK 01.240 chronograph caliber that retains the flyback function of the original watch.

The back of the the new Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition, showing the aviation style leather strap.

Also new: a thicker seconds hand and a larger minute hand.

Porsche Design attaches the new watch to a slate grey ‘Bund’ strap made of Porsche vehicle leather with a quick-release mechanism. As an additional option, the chronograph also comes with a white textile strap with a badge on which the coordinates of the F.A.T. Ice Race are printed.

The watch also comes with a white textile strap with a badge on which the coordinates of the F.A.T. Ice Race are printed.

Collectors can pre-order the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition now for $13,000. The watch will be available in stores starting January 15, 2024.

Porsche Design celebrates the 60th anniversary of the Porsche 911 with a new anniversary edition of its original Chronograph 1, the first blackened steel Porsche Design watch from 1972.

The new Porsche Design Chronograph 1 – 911 S/T.

The new model, the Chronograph 1 – 911 S/T, is a flyback chronograph that features design elements and colors that specifically pay homage to the Porsche 911 S/T 2.4.

Porsche Design is reserving the new watch for the owners of the newest Porsche 911 S/T. 

The car is known for its lightweight design concept, which is why Porsche Design built cases for the new watch in lightweight uncoated and sandblasted titanium, and in two hues: Ceramica (high gloss) or Brilliant Silver.

The black dial of the new watch, framed by a black bezel ring, mimics the car’s instrument panel, as does the green and red minute scale, which includes a red 60 to echo the look of the car’s retro rev counter.

The dial of the new Chronograph 1 – 911 S/T also features a day display in both German and English with the date colored in a brilliant phosphorous green. The white stop-seconds hand, which echoes the rev counter pointer, is coated with a generous amount of SuperLuminova.

Finally, Porsche Design has copied the font used to indicate the car’s gear shift pattern and applied it to the dial on the new watch, specifically on the chronograph sub-dials. The shift pattern itself can also be found on the dial.

Inside Porsche Design fits its excellent COSC-certified Porsche Design WERK 01.240 with flyback function and specially designed rotor available three options: high-gloss, silver or black. The movement is visible behind a sapphire crystal caseback.

Porsche Design offers the Chronograph 1 – 911 S/T in a Heritage version that incudes a Classic Cognac-colored genuine leather strap and a winding rotor on the back that features the Porsche crest. The S/T version includes a black leather strap and the S/T-branded rotor. Both versions come with the additional titanium bracelet.

All watches will have the limited edition number (of 1,963) engraved on the back of the watch. Porsche Design is also including a range of accessories with each watch, including a plaque featuring the 911 S/T image and the individual limitation number.

Price: $13,500.

Hublot extends its partnership with men’s fashion house Berluti with the new Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio, a 44mm limited edition flyback chronograph that elegantly melds leather and titanium.

The new Hublot Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio.

Once again Hublot utilizes its Unico collection for this latest Berluti collaboration. The series has deftly displayed fine leather from the French menswear maker within the dressy Unico dials in a variety of imaginative and stylish configurations since the series launched in 2016.

For this latest edition, Hublot again sets Berluti leather between two sapphire glass pieces. The dial’s indexes and “Swiss Made” declaration are heat pressed (gauffered) directly on the leather’s surface.

This model, per its name, features Berluti’s signature Aluminio patina, which will wear to reflect light in varying light grey tones. The result creates a more monochrome appearance than we’ve seen in previous Hublot/Berluti collaborations.

Leather bezel

Berluti leather also highlights the bezel. Using a sticky resin, artisans attach a 1mm-thick piece of the Berluti leather onto the grey titanium bezel, which is then screwed onto the case. This means that, in time, the bezel will wear to create an individualized patina that will match the Berluti leather strap.

Hublot plans to offer the strap in two versions: one in burnished Aluminio Venezia leather; another in patinated Aluminio Venezia leather with the Scritto motif, exclusively for Japan.

Hublot says its titanium case and choice of case and movement materials on the new Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio are also meant to match the leather’s eventual patina. These materials include titanium for the case and the strap’s deployant clasp, resin for the central lug, tungsten for the oscillating weight, and satin-finished rhodium for the hands.

Hublot exposes its Unico movement through the dial, framing gears and wheels with the hand-cut Aluminio leather. This movement, Hublot’s MHUB1280, features a flyback function with column wheel and an impressive 72-hour power reserve.

Hublot will the deliver the 100-piece limited-edition Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio in a special case with a travel pouch and a shoehorn key ring with the Berluti logo. Price: $25,200.

Specifications: Hublot Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio

(Reference 421.NX.0500.VR.BER21, limited to 100 pieces)

Dial: Genuine patinated Venezia leather by Berluti with indices in relief and words Swiss Made.

Case: 44mm by 15.45mm satin-finished and polished titanium. Water resistance is 100 meters. On sapphire back: satin-finished titanium etched with LIMITED EDITION 100NUM and BERLUTI. Satin-finished and polished titanium bezel with a genuine patinated Venezia leather insert by Berluti.

Movement: Hublot MHUB1280
Self-winding UNICO Manufacture chronograph flyback movement with column wheel. Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 A/h), power reserve is 72 hours.

Strap: Black rubber and genuine patinated Venezia leather by Berluti,, titanium deployant buckle.

Price: $25,200

 

The Porsche Design 1919 Chronotimer Flyback is now available with an eye-catching blue dial and strap. Retaining the lightweight titanium case and form-fit lugs that mark the collection, this new model transfers the luxury of Porsche interior blue calf leather to wrist. The minimalistic dial echoes the watch’s automotive inspiration with clean lines and a highly legible set of subdials and markers.  

Also echoing the automotive namesake is what’s under the hood, or in this case, beneath the dial. Porsche Design’s own Werk 01.200 chronograph caliber offers a flyback mechanism designed by Porsche Design.

As is typical of many of its other watches, Porsche Design has set the movement with a blackened, tungsten rotor featuring the brand logo. Werk 01.200 also bears a chronometer-level certificate from the Swiss C.O.S.C. institute.  

The 1919 Chronotimer Flyback Blue & Leather is available starting this month priced at $6,350 in Porsche Design Stores and online at www.porsche-design.us  and www.porsche-design.ca.

Specifications: Porsche Design 1919 Chronotimer Flyback Blue & Leather

Movement: Porsche Design-made caliber WERK 01.200, 4 Hz, chronograph with flyback function, COSC-certified, blackened Porsche Design icon rotor, 48-hour power reserve

Case: 42mm by 14.9mm titanium, bead-blasted and polished, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal front and back, water resistant to 100 meters  

Dial: Blue with white accents, minute, hour, mechanical function display at 9 o’clock, chronograph second hand, 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, date window at 4 o’clock

Strap: Genuine Porsche car leather blue, grey stitching, folding clasp with pusher