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Nomos recently added two eye-catching, sunburst-finished models to its Club Sport series, both with a more moderate 37mm diameter steel case and steel bracelet.

The two new 37mm additions to the Nomos Club Sport series.

The new watches expand the options with Club Sport, which already offers blue and black-dialed 42mm models. Nomos explains that the new models meet a strong demand among Nomos customers for smaller case diameters that fit a wider range of wrist sizes.   

The new colors of the dial, which Nomos dubs Polar blue and Petrol green, shimmer in daylight. And apropos of a functional sports watch, Nomos has the provided recessed hour numerals generously filled with luminescent material that will glow for an extended period.

A gently domed sapphire crystal adds to the appeal of the Club series.

The Nomos Club Sport series is built for active use, with 200-meters of water resistance and a serious steel bracelet with a deployant steel clasp. Inside you’ll find the excellent Nomos in-house DUW 3001 neomatik automatic caliber with a bi-directional rotor — fully visible through a sapphire caseback.

Price: $3,150.

Zenith reprises its partnership with Argentinian-Spanish optical artist Felipe Pantone to create the new Defy Extreme Felipe Pantone, a limited-edition colorful chronograph with a metallic dial that reflects light with micro-engraved iridescence.

The new Zenith Defy Extreme Felipe Pantone.

Pantone combines color, metallic components and mathematically conceived shapes to generate optical illusions on the Defy’s dial. 

To create the dial’s colorful effect, Zenith reproduced a process Pantone has used frequently in his Planned Iridescence art installations.

Zenith technicians started with a clear sapphire disk as the dial’s base and then applied hidden, micro-engraved patterns measuring only 100 nanometres deep. The patterns reflect light, creating a rainbow of colors that shift with the light.

You’ll see shifting colors on the hands as well. Zenith finishes the chronograph’s minute counter with a graduated scale of colors, where each minute is segmented by a different tone. The chronograph’s second counter mimics a moiré effect with its thin, concentric black and white lines.

More colors

At Pantone’s direction, Zenith also made the watch’s dodecagonal bezel and its pusher protectors from translucent blue YAS (yttrium aluminosilicate), a crystalline glass material comparable to synthetic sapphire. This adds more color to the watch, beyond the dial. Just outside the bezel, the four corners of the case are engraved with “FP#1”, a signature for “Felipe Pantone El Primero”.

Zenith then matched that translucent blue with an equally translucent blue silicone strap. Zenith also includes a polished steel bracelet and a black Velcro strap with the watch.

Pantone also demonstrates his chromatic-based style on the watch’s El Primero high-frequency chronograph movement. He advised Zenith to apply the gradient rainbow 3-D PVD coloring used on the watch’s hands to the star-shaped rotor.

As a reminder, the El Primero movement inside the Defy Extreme series is one of Zenith’s most complicated. It features two independently driven regulating organs, beating at 50Hz for chronograph and 5Hz for the timekeeping.

Zenith offers the Defy Extreme Felipe Pantone as a limited edition of 100 pieces, available exclusively at Zenith boutiques and online. Price: CHF 29,900.

Optical artist Felipe Pantone at work.

 

Specifications: Zenith Extreme Defy Felipe Pantone

(Reference: 03.9100.9004/49.I210)

Movement: El Primero 9004, 1/100th-of-a-second chronograph, one rotation per second for the chrono hand, one escapement for the watch (36,000 VpH – 5 Hz); 1 escapement for the chronograph (360,000 VpH – 50 Hz). Certified Chronometer, power-reserve of 60 hours.

Functions: Hours and minutes in the center. Small seconds at 9 o’clock. 1/100th of a second chronograph: Central chronograph hand that makes one turn each second; 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock; 60-second counter at 6 o’clock; Chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock.

Finishes: Ruthenium colored main plate on movement + special “Rainbow” PVD-colored oscillating weight with satined finishings.

Case: 45mm polished steel & blue YAS, water resistant to 200 meters.  

Dial: Tinted sapphire with Felipe’s iridescent effect artwork pattern,  Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with Beige SuperLuminova hour markers and  Rhodium-plated, faceted with “Rainbow” PVD coating & SLN C1 hands. 

Bracelet: Transparent blue Rubber. 2 straps included: 1 rubber with folding buckle & 1 Velcro, stainless steel folding clasp.

Price: CHF 29,900. 

Zodiac enhances its hot Super Sea Wolf collection with a new ceramic-cased model, a first for the U.S.-based, Swiss-made sports watchmaker.

The new Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ceramic.

The new Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ceramic features a 40mm case built from hardened ceramic, which envelopes the case’s steel core.

With a ceramic exterior, the new Super Sea Wolf appears more polished and deeper black than you’d see with black-coated steel case. Ceramic, a high-tech material now widely found on watches, is scratch-resistant, corrosion-resistant and fade-resistant.

As a result, ceramic watches typically look new for many more years than comparable steel or precious metal watches. For the wearer there are other advantages, including its light weight and hypoallergenic properties.

Zodiac offers the watch with a particularly handsome midnight blue radiant sunburst dial with uni-directional rotating bezel and highly visible white hands and markers set with plenty of SuperlumiNova.

The dial on the new Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ceramic rightly touts its 200-meters of water resistance and displays the date. Inside the newly developed case you’ll find a chronometer-certified, Swiss-made STP 1-11 automatic movement.

Zodiac attaches a vanilla scented rubber strap to each case. Price: $1,695.

Maurice Lacroix launches two Venturer 38mm models within its popular Aikon collection as it appeals to collectors who prefer a modest ‘unisex’ case size.

The new Maurice Lacroix Aikon Venturer 38mm.

The Swiss watchmaker has expanded Aikon to include a wide-ranging selection of automatic, quartz and dressy versions of the design in the years since it introduced the collection in 2016. And while 39mm Aikon watches dot the Automatic Aikon collection, most (with the exception of one gem-set example) measure 40mm or larger in diameter. 

The new duo addresses request for what Maurice Lacroix calls “an increasing number of clients are seeking sub-40mm case options.”

The watchmaker offers the new Aikon Venturer 38mm in a choice of two dial colors, black or green, both set with silver-toned hour and minute hands and imbued with a generous helping of white SuperLuminova. The central seconds hand is especially visible with its luminescent lollipop style.

Each watch is finished with a sun-ray pattern dial, framed by a black or green rotating dive-style bezel set with ceramic. To emphasize the sportier nature of the Venturer collection, Maurice Lacroix fashions the watch with a crown guard and a superior 300-meters of water resistance.

Inside, Maurice Lacroix fits an Sellita-based automatic ML115 caliber and finishes the solid case-back with a ‘Vagues du Jura’ motif and the brand’s ‘M’ logo.

Maurice Lacroix offers a black or green rubber strap for the new set, as well as a five-row stainless steel bracelet. Or, for those who prefer options, the watch is available with both the strap and bracelet, which the wearer can quickly change using the watchmaker’s Easy Strap Exchange system.

Prices: $2,100 (strap only), $2,200 (steel bracelet) and $2,350 (bracelet and strap).

By Steve Huyton 

Over the last decade, I’ve dealt with many talented craftsmen worldwide. Mostly, fine watchmaking is associated with Switzerland. However, I recently connected with a gentleman named Andrey Shishov who is located in Riga, Latvia. His brand Enera is very popular on social media watch forums, and I was intrigued to discover what motivated Andrey to establish a cool micro-brand.

The Enera Marine Bronze.

Very kindly he agreed to unpack his back story, which is absolutely fascinating. 

Shishov is a certified bodyguard and shooting instructor. He is also a member of the EBSA which is an organization for security professionals. This experience inspired the conception of many of Enera’s models.

The Enera Desert Rose.

Since 2018 Enera has released six models: the Marine, Bodyguard, Pilot, Asymmetrix, Samurai and Desert Rose. All of these timepieces have oversized cases and are designed for people who like to make a bold statement.

An Enera Bodyguard model, with green dial.

Enera also offers a ten-year guarantee on all their watches. Additionally, any damage to the case (including crown and glass) incurred during the warranty period is repaired free of charge. This is a pledge unheard of in the industry and it certainly illustrates how confident Shishov is about the overall quality of his watches. 

Another notable point is each timepiece is assembled by hand in Riga from components entirely sourced in Europe. 

Custom work

When I initially spoke to Shishov, he explained his individual approach for each of his customers. 

Effectively clients can choose dial color, strap (from handmade collection) and even personalized engraving. This gave me the idea to create a particular unique watch with Enera called the ‘Purple Skull’.

The Enera Purple Skull, a custom example within the Bodyguard collection.

For this collaboration, we decided to use Enera’s Bodyguard model as it is synonymous with the brand. The initial concept of the Bodyguard is inspired by the design of armored vehicles. This is reflected in the brutish geometric angular 48mm 316L stainless steel case. 

To accentuate the industrial façade I felt a gothic purple dial with an engraved skull would be highly effective. On the case side is a bronze plate with the initials of my brand Paolo Mathai Horology in Malayalam script.

Powering the watch is an ETA Swiss automatic movement, Caliber 2824-1, with 25 jewels, which oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The caliber is visibly showcased via the sapphire crystal exhibition case back.

Functionally the Purple Skull features hours, minutes, seconds and a date indication (located at 3 o’clock). The watch also has a power reserve of 40 hours and is water resistant to 100 meters. As a perfect finale, the Purple Skull is presented on an exquisite handcrafted grey leather strap (plus an additional NATO strap) with a complimentary engraved stainless steel buckle.

Enera’s Bodyguard series is priced starting at about $1,685.  

Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews.