With the pre-selected Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève watches visible on the organization’s own site, enthusiasts can see all the nominees for the annual ‘Oscars of the watchmaking industry on October 29. iW has been annotating the list of nominated watches for you with a series of posts, organized by category, so you can put each nominee into context.
All told, seventy-two timepieces will be competing to win the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prize or one of the sixteen prizes awarded for creative talent and watchmaking expertise. Readers can submit their own vote for Public Prize at the GPHG site, where each voter also enters a contest to win a Glorious Knight Chronograph by DeWitt. The 2015 list of winners will be announced at the 15th annual ceremony at the Grand Théâtre de Genève on October 29. Today we look at the watches nominated in the Calendar category.
Blancpain presents a new version of the Villeret Complete Calendar with a grey dial tying together the traditions of watchmaking with innovations. This 40 mm watch with a 72-hour power reserve displays a complete calendar and lunar cycle along with the hours, minutes and seconds. Unique to this self-winding caliber 6654 is it allows the owner to set all the indications at anytime without causing damage to the mechanism. In addition, the watch has patented under-lug correctors allowing for adjustments without an adjustment tool and leaving the stainless steel case free of adjustment dimples. In order to differentiate between the date and time, Blancpain has added a blued serpentine steel hand recalling historical methods the dates from the 18th century.
Honoring the traditions of horology, this 39 mm watch features both a moon phase and calendar function in the function in the purest of forms. The balanced dial displays the day and month through the side-by-side apertures while at 6 o’clock is an eye-catching opening highlighting a starry sky and the phases of the moon. The date is indicated along the edge of the crisp white dial with a striking red crescent-shaped hand contrasting to the hours, minutes and second hands. Housed in a smooth stainless steel case the reliable movement has a 42-hour power reserve.
Philippe Delhotal, Creative Director of La Montre Hermès, designed the aesthetics of this Hermès watch and incorporated original and modern typography to mark the hours created by graphic designer Philippe Apeloig. At the heart of the 39.5 mm pink gold case is ultra-thin Manufacture Hermès H1950 movement with its Vaucher base measuring just 2.6 mm in height, in part due to the micro-rotor. The movement embodies the traditions of watch making with functions such as a dual time zone and perpetual calendar with moon phases. Time is displayed in its simplest expression showing only the hours, minutes while moon phase indication adds a stroke of color with a white mother-of-pearl representing the moon set against an aventurine glass sky. A glimpse of the movements fine finishes such as the H motif and hand-beveled bridges can be viewed through the sapphire crystal case-back.
After two years of development, Hublot created this full calendar with moonphases, date and day and month indications. At 6 o’clock, an opening reveals two convex spherical moons presents the phases of the moon due to the partially frosted glass discs. Around the edge of the moon display is a simple date while the skeletonized day and month indications have been placed at 12 o’clock in two apertures. The black, grey and anthracite tones further emphasize the mechanism’s impression of depth and is complemented by a Hublot King Gold case. To set the watch, there are four integrated correctors placed along the case for the calendar with the time is set using the crown.
This collection represents a seamless transition from historic to modern for Tiffany design. Inside the 40 mm rose gold case is a Swiss self-winding mechanical movement powering the hours, minutes and seconds along with a calendar. The clean layout of the dial allows to easily readable date along the perimeter of the dial with blue arrow and the seconds are indicated with the red while the subsidiary dial shows the month. The movement is decorated with Côtes de Genève and snailing and perlage.
The FreakLab has evolved since 2001 to now incorporate a new generation of shock absorbers entirely designed, developed and produced in-house, and the Dual Ulysse escapement. The Freak is constructed without a dial or hands: the movement turns about its own axis. The lower level displays the hours in the shape of an anchor while the redesigned upper level carries the balance-spring unit, exclusive Dual Ulysse silicium escapement and a gear train that has been reduced in size allowing the balance wheel to be centered and displays the minutes in the shape of a sail. In addition, the FreakLab is newly equipped with a date function at 4 o’clock. Moreover, the mainspring barrel –designed for a power reserve of more than seven days – is wound by the other bezel. Thus the two bezels, front and back, are constituent parts of the movement.