iW Magazine
SIHH 2013

SIHH Highlights: Complicated Dials, Cases and Movements

Complexities of all stripes marked much of the remaining debuts seen at SIHH 2013. Several brands focused their attention on complicated movements while others presented stunning and labor-intensive dials and unusually constructed cases.

Grand Complications were seen at Audemars Piguet and A. Lange & Söhne. The white gold and titanium Audemars Piguet Tradition Tourbillon Minute Repeater is an almost retro-looking ten-piece whose impact was blunted a bit by the firm’s new Grand Complication, an extremely limited edition in the Royal Oak Offshore family that features a split-seconds chronograph, minute repeater, tourbillon and a perpetual calendar—all packed into a 44 mm titanium case.

At A. Lange & Söhne, where the news of a Grand Complication was essentially broadcast via the very oversized clock-sized version of it greeting all who pass by the booth, visitors learned that the Glashutte-based brand’s Grand Complication will feature a chiming mechanism with grand and small strike, minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph with minute counter and flying seconds as well as a perpetual calendar with moon phase display.

Other very complex models were seen at Jaeger-LeCoultre, which introduced the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon III featuring instantaneous digital chronograph and a flying tourbillon with a spherical hairspring. In addition, the firm introduced a terrific Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique Quantieme Perpetuel, a platinum-cased perpetual calendar that is one of three Jubilee models celebrating JLC’s 180th anniversary. Richard Mille continues to wow collectors with his blend of high-tech tourbillons constructed from materials that are typically found in fighter jets or racecars. His RM059 Johan Blake edition (named for the Jamaican sprinter) for example is a mix of carbon nanotubes forged into splayed green and yellow bridges created from a mix of aluminum, magnesium and silicon.

Dials were Vacheron Constantin’s focus as the Geneva brand’s all-ladies debuts featured Métiers d’Art Florilège, a trio of beautiful artistically crafted dials featuring special flowers. This trilogy pays tribute to English botanical illustration in the 19th century and includes a limited series of 20 collector’s watches with the bezel set with round-cut diamonds and five more with the bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds for the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques.

Stay tuned to iW for continued reports about new models from SIHH 2013.

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