TAG Heuer this week adds a thinner, more refined version of the Aquaracer Professional 200 to its Aquaracer collection.

Echoing updates TAG Heuer made to its Aquaracer Professional 300 dive watch this past April, the changes to the Aquaracer Professional 200 also result in a thinner and slightly smaller design while also retaining the technical specifications of what TAG Heuer calls its “all-terrain luxury tool watch.”

TAG Heuer’s new Aquaracer Professional 200, now available in 40mm and 30mm sizes. Pictured is a 40mm automatic model.

Those specifications include the same six design points TAG Heuer has built into the collection since 2004, the year Aquaracer debuted as the watchmaker’s dive watch collection. These include: a unidirectional rotating bezel; a screw-down crown; water resistance to at least 200 meters; luminous markings; a sapphire crystal; and a double safety clasp.

To create the new automatic Aquaracer 200 Professional, TAG Heuer combines these guideposts with a more wrist-friendly size (40mm versus 41mm in its previous iteration) and a more sophisticated black, silver or blue dial finish. (Seven quartz-powered Aquaracer 200 Professional collection watches will also be available in both 40mm and 30mm case sizes, and two new automatic models measure 30mm in diameter.)

Steel bezel

In addition to the smaller dimensions, TAG Heuer replaces the former model’s ceramic bezel diving scale with an eye-catching, engraved twelve-facet steel bezel. The new design features a polished central bracelet link, adding extra style to what is primarily an all-weather sport watch.

Both the automatic and quartz watches feature a slimmed-down, more elegant bracelet.

Those familiar with last year’s updates to the Aquaracer Professional 300 will see similar sartorial touches with the Aquaracer Professional 200 update. Note the same refined, repeating horizontal lines on the dial and the sculpted, shorter lugs with brushed and polished finishes.

But unlike the deep dive watch’s decidedly sporty dial, the dial on the new Aquaracer Professional 200 is more classically finished. You’ll see straight-edged, trapezoidal hour markers, thinner sword-shaped hands, and crisper detailing across the dial.

TAG Heuer notes that while it has still coated the watch’s hour markers and hands with SuperLuminova, its dial makers have added no luminescent material to the bezel. The result, according to the watchmaker, is a “more sartorial look” for the Aquaracer Professional 200.

The 30mm automatic model sports a smoky black or blue dial, some with diamond markers.

As noted above, TAG Heuer is offering the new Aquaracer Professional 200 models with a choice of movements and sizes. Within the 40mm collection, there are two automatic and two quartz references, while at 30mm there are two automatics and five quartz options.

The watch’s reverse is engraved with a compass, replacing the diving helmet featured on earlier Aquaracer case backs.

These choices differ markedly from the options available with the 2021 Aquaracer Professional 300 update, which is only available with an automatic movement. In summary, the automatic Aquaracer Professional 200 models sport gradient dials, date windows, sweeping seconds hands and more detailed minute tracks. The quartz model dials are simpler and display no date, though several models offer diamond accents.

Prices: $2,500 (40mm automatic), $1,850 (40mm quartz), $3,200 (30mm automatic), $2,500 to $4,550 (30mm quartz with diamonds), $1,800 (30mm quartz).

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