Chronoswiss has offered variations of the regulator dial for more than thirty-five years. Indeed, the Lucerne-based brand has teamed regulator timekeeping with a wide variety of other functions and displays since 1987, when Chronoswiss debuted the first serially produced wristwatch with a regulator-type dial.
In recent years, the Chronoswiss regulator collection has focused on bold, 44mm partially or fully skeletonized manual-wind watches, as well as automatic models in smaller (37mm and 41mm) diameters, many displaying more classical, dressy dials with time-only indications.
This year, to bridge the automatic-manual movement gap within its larger sized regulator models, Chronoswiss is offering the new Flying Grand Regulator Open Gear Retrograde Second (ReSec) as its first large-sized Regulator model conceived with an automatic movement (the ETA-based Chronoswiss C.301 with in-house regulator mechanism).
Colorful Dials and Cases
This new collection, debuting with four steel-cased editions and one red gold model, emphasizes the eponymous regulator mechanism as the dial’s primary design element, using color, luminosity and hand-wrought guilloché finishing.
Thus, the wheel train bridges that display the off-center hour display are skeletonized and screwed to the dial, which in turn becomes part of the movement. The only other display here is the seconds indication, which are shown in retrograde style by a seconds hand that sweeps along the tracks of a 120-degree scale and jumps every thirty seconds back to the start.
This year, to complement the larger case, Chronoswiss has shortened the lugs (when compared to earlier models). For those with smaller wrists, the new design really does fit a bit more comfortably on the wrist.
But at 44mm, these Flying Grand Regulator Open Gear Retrograde Second watches will hardly hide under any cuff, even if they sport the detailed hand-guilloché dials more typically found on thin, dressier models. The watch’s large crown and red, green, blue, silver or black accents assure that it will remain visible during the day. At night, it’s the large, cylinder-shaped indexes that shine, each made of a mix of SuperLuminova and ceramics.
Chronoswiss, never a company to utilize off-the-rack hands, has devised a new hand shape here, creating elongated triangles that are also equipped with SuperLuminova inlays to ensure optimal night readability.
As noted, four of the new models are cased in steel, but only one of these is finalized in a traditional polished steel hue. Chronoswiss has blackened two of the other cases with DLC, creating two models: red and bright green. Their colors are accentuated with guillochéd, black galvanized dials. Another case is offered in an electric blue color, an unusual hue carried along the crown, hands and dial. The red gold-cased model features a more sedate grey dial with red-accented hands.
Chronoswiss is making fifty versions of each new Flying Grand Regulator Open Gear Retrograde Second, all of which will be marked with their individual limited series number on the dial. Prices start at about $9,900 for steel models.
Specifications: Chronoswiss Flying Grand Regulator Open Gear ReSec (Retrograde Second)
Case: 44 mm by 13.35mm seventeen-piece stainless steel or red gold with satin finish and polished, bezel with partial knurling and curved, double coated anti- reflective sapphire crystal, screw-down case back with satin finish and sapphire crystal, onion crown, water resistance up to 10 bar, strap holders screwed down with patented Autobloc system
Movement: Chronoswiss caliber C. 301, automatic, with stop seconds, skeletonized and, depending on the respective style, either red gold- or rhodium-plated, or green, red or blue rotor with Côtes de Genève and ball bearing; polished pallet lever, escape wheel and screws; bridges and plates with perlage
Dial: Off-center hours at 12, central minutes, retrograde seconds at 6. Elaborate 42-part construction on two levels: bottom level hand- guillochéd, upper level featuring screwed-on skeletonized train wheel bridges and funnel-like construction for hour display, as well as a retrograde seconds display and cylinder shape Super-LumiNova indexes. Hands are new “Trigono” shape designed by Chronoswiss; thermally blued, red gold- or rhodium-plated and polished, or lacquered; with Super-LumiNova inlays and tips
Strap: Hornback crocodile leather, hand-sewn