Ahead of SIHH 2019, Cartier is previewing four new Tonneau watches, each a member of the Privé collection that has Cartier re-booting its best-known designs for collectors. For 2019, Cartier will re-visit its long history as a maker of tonneau-cased watches that hug the wrist with elegance.
The four new examples are all large-sized tonneau models, and two of these are skeletonized dual-timers.
The Cartier Tonneau watch (large model, measuring 46.1mm by 26.2mm) is to be offered in a 100-piece platinum limited edition ($26,200) and also in rose gold ($22,400). Recalling the very first Cartier tonneau watch from 1906, each new version features polished, rhodium-plated numerals with dials in either champagne-color (on the rose gold version) or silvered (on the platinum model). A blue cabochon tips the crown on the pink gold model; a ruby cabochon highlights the platinum crown. Both models are fitted with Cartier’s new 1917 MC Manufacture caliber.
The Cartier Tonneau Dual Time Zone Skeleton Watch, in platinum ($78,500) and rose gold ($68,500), is also an extra-large watch, at 52.4mm by 29.8mm. Both versions are available in a limited edition of 100 numbered pieces, with twenty additional numbered platinum pieces also to be made with baguette-cut diamonds.
This model is essentially an update of the 2006 Cartier Tonneau XL dual time model. But unlike the original, which had two movements, a single in-house Caliber 9919 MC with a 60-hour power reserve powers the new dual-time display.
Cartier explains that its watchmakers had to vertically re-align the movement’s gear train, aligning it between 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock, while also reshaping the movement so it fits within the curved contours of the tonneau case. That alteration required angled cuts to the movement’s barrel and escapement wheel. Watchmakers and designer then linked both time zone displays to the single gear train.
The timekeeping results of this new configuration are easy to read on the clearly marked bridges for both time zones. The crown at two o’clock is for winding and setting, while the crown at four o’clock is a pusher that advances the second time zone on the lower dial in one-hour increments. Prices listed above subject to change.