Perhaps with an eye to the original Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 “Bronzo” from 2011, which combined a green dial and a bronze case to launch a frenzy of demand, Panerai this week offers green dials within three different Panerai cases. And while none of these new, boutique-only watches will be made with a bronze case, each one will still likely inspire collectors in search of a limited-edition piece boasting a rarely seen dial color within Panerai’s historic range.
The three cases, Radiomir, Radiomir 1940 and Luminor 1950, each offer their own set of functions set among their dark green dials, luminous markers and gilded hands. Each also arrives on a natural brown leather strap with contrasting beige stitching, stamped with the OP logo, creating a design uniformity of a sort.
Let’s look at the new offerings:
Radiomir 8 Days Titanio – 45mm (PAM735)
The new Radiomir 8 Days (PAM00735) has a 45mm cushion case in brushed titanium with the characteristic wire loop strap attachments and the conical winding crown first seen on the earliest Radiomirs in 1936. Here, the polished bezel surrounds a sandwich-constructed matte, dark green dial. On the back one can spy the hand-wound in-house P.2002 caliber as well as the power reserve indication. Three spring barrels connected in series provide a power reserve of eight days. The movement is also known for its ability to allow the wearer to zero the seconds hand as well as for its ability to allow one to adjust the hour hand forwards or backwards without affecting the movement of the minute hand. Panerai will make 250 of these watches. Price: $12,100
Radiomir 1940 3 Days Acciaio – 47mm (PAM736)
As with all Radiomir 1940 cases, the watch’s lugs are integrated with the case from a solid block of stainless steel. These are 47mm models with an interesting, slightly cambered sapphire crystal. Inside is an in-house P.3000 hand-wound caliber, found inside all the firm’s Radiomir 1940 3 Days models, with a power reserve of three days. Panerai will make 300 examples of this watch. Price: $9,200
Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante 8 Days GMT Titanio – 44mm (PAM737)
The most complex of the new offerings, and made as part of a 200-piece limited edition series, the Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante 8 Days GMT Titanio has a brushed 44mm titanium case with the characteristic Panerai bridge lever device devised (in the 1950s) to protect the winding crown.
The dial is familiar to Panerai enthusiasts with its easy-to-read indications and characteristic (rare) linear power research indicator at 6 o’clock displaying the status of the eight-day power reserve. Panerai achieves this long reserve with its own hand-wound P.2004 caliber with three spring barrels in series. Look for the seconds counter and am/pm indication relating to the central second time zone hand at 9 o’clock. Chronograph minutes are measured by the subdial at 3 o’clock and there is a central seconds hand. All the hands except the GMT function indicator are gilded.
The P.2004 caliber is a nifty, complicated affair. It offers a column wheel (visible through the sapphire crystal porthole in the back of the movement) and the vertical clutch expected at this high-level of manufacturing, but adds a few Panerai extras: The chronograph minute hand moves in jumps, making it easier to read, and the watch can be synchronized thanks to a device that stops the balance wheel and zeroes the seconds hand when making adjustments. Price: $18,100.