Arizona-based jeweler Geoffrey Roth began to create his own watches more than eighteen years ago. His designs are deeply personal and his collection boasts a selection of shaped and round cases made in-house with CNC machinery and then finished by hand. Roth’s dials are fashioned from sterling silver or 18-karat 5N gold, engraved one at a time (never die-struck) and printed on a proprietary machine Roth designed and built. The large synthetic rubies you’ll see on almost all his watch crowns were inspired by the jewels found in the movements of the antique train-conductor pocket watches that Roth loved as a child.
Recently, Roth has teamed with master engraver Todd Daniels to create detailed pattern work on cases and dials.
A professional goldsmith and jeweler for three decades, Daniels was so impressed with Roth’s watch designs that, unprompted, he suggested the pair collaborate, and Roth agreed. Roth says hand engraving has always been a special skill for which he has great respect. He considers Daniels one of the finest engravers he has ever met.
“For an accomplished engraver, silver or gold or even gun steels are all relatively easy work with, but not when compared to stainless steel,” Roth says. “It takes a true master engraver to work in the high surgical-grade stainless steel in which our watches are milled.”
In 2017 Geoffrey Roth Watch Engineering was invited to exhibit his watches with Todd Daniels engraving at the annual Smithsonian Craft Show (which begins April 27 in Washington, D.C.)
Among the newest Roth-Daniels collaborations is one model within the HH5 Tonneau collection. The HH5 Tonneau is a 43-millimeter-wide watch with a stainless-steel case coated with AlTiN. In addition to the Daniels-engraved version, other HH5 Tonneau models include one with a case of Damascus steel and another with a polished black steel case. All feature a decorated 18-karat rose-gold dial that Roth engraves in-house on a vintage rose engine lathe. Those familiar with Roth’ s earlier work will recognize the HH5’s characteristic large almond shaped blued-steel hands and markers, each lume-tinted.
Each HH5 Tonneau also features a domed synthetic sapphire front crystal with anti-glare coating and synthetic sapphire display back is echoed in the steel-core, triple-seal crown, finished with solid 18-karat rose gold and surrounds a signature ruby outer and natural blue sapphire center. The decorated automatic ETA 2892 movement is topped with a solid tungsten rotor with PVD process AlTiN coating embellished with the Geoffrey Roth logo.
These 100-meter water-resistant watches come on an American-made hand-stitched, farm-raised Louisiana alligator strap with a double-deployant stainless-steel clasp. There are several HH5 models available. Prices: $9,500 (polished black steel), $12,500 (Damascus steel) and $24,000 (Daniels-engraved steel).
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Specifications: The Geoffrey Roth Watch Engineering HH5 Tonneau
Case: 43mm wide 316L stainless steel with AlTiN coating; Domed synthetic sapphire crystals front and rear – front with anti-glare coating on the inside; triple seal crown with a stainless core and solid 18k rose gold surrounding signature ruby and a natural blue sapphire
Dial: Rose gold with SuperLuminova, blued steel hands (made in Arizona
Movement: Swiss ETA 2892A2 automatic, solid tungsten rotor engraved with Roth logo and PVD plated with hard TiAlN coating
Bracelet/strap: Louisiana alligator strap created in the USA to Roth specifications, double deployant stainless steel clasp (engraved with logo). Six-year warranty, extended for six more years if your watch is returned for servicing between years five and six.
Prices: $9,500 to $24,000.